Momijigari with Yui Jamie #1/2 - Yamanaka-ko, Fuji Five Lakes

A few days ago, we went autumn leaf-chasing (momijigari 紅葉狩 to the Japanese) in the Fuji Five Lakes region. It was a long weekend back home thanks to Deepavali (a Hindu festival also called Diwali) and presented a perfect time for us to have a short getaway. Fortunately for us, the autumn forecast on japan.com indicated that it would likely be peak autumn foliage in the region during our time there.

Yui-chan in the gardens of Hotel Kaneyamaen

We arrived at the Fuji Five Lakes area in the late evening and headed straight to Kosaku (小作), an old favourite of ours that specialises in hōtō noodles.

Hōtō noodles at Kosaku

As mentioned in another post, hōtō noodles are a Yamanashi regional specialty. They're thick and chewy and deliciously served in a hearty, thick soup full of other ingredients including meat, pumpkin, mushrooms, vegetables and so on.

A Yamanashi specialty, hōtō noodles.

Early the next day, we began with a trip to the tourist information centre to get a map and to check for where the best autumn-viewing spots would be. Before we departed for Japan, we had been following the progress of the autumn front, "kōyō zensen" (紅葉前線) in Japanese, on japan.com and various posts/reports by people in Japan. On arrival, we thought a trip to the tourist information centre for more information would help us in our autumn-viewing quest.

Kōyō zensen (紅葉前線) information at the tourist information centre, Fuji Five Lakes

This is my first time experiencing autumn in Japan, and I can't get over the amazing shades of yellow, orange and red.

Autumn, Yamanaka-ko, Fuji Five Lakes

We stop for lunch at Amiyaki Hana (網焼HANA), a yakiniku place at Kawaguchi-ko that serves wagyu beef from the Yamanashi Prefecture. The restaurant is quite homely with some Hawaiian/Okinawan touches. Reviews mentioned that this is a very popular place, but it was quiet when we were there. Not sure if it's because it's less crowded during lunchtime, or because of the overcast and rainy weather. Perhaps both.

Yamanashi wagyu beef at Amiyaki HANA, Fuji Five Lakes

After lunch, we went back to the Yamanaka-ko area to chase the autumn scenes.

Autumn, Yamanaka-ko, Fuji Five Lakes

The park by Yamanaka-ko was already slightly past its prime, with a number of the trees having shed quite a few leaves, perhaps due to the breeze and the constant drizzle. But there were some patches where the trees still wore their brilliant autumn garb. And so we strolled with canopies of gold, amber and ruby overhead and the rustle of shed autumn leaves underfoot.

Autumn, Yamanaka-ko, Fuji Five Lakes

Autumn, Yamanaka-ko, Fuji Five Lakes

A golden canopy of leaves, Yamanaka-ko, Fuji Five Lakes

Afterwards, we headed to our hotel. We had some difficulty locating our hotel, Bessho Sasa. (We had stayed in one of the non-descript nearby hotels the night before.) We made enquiries at the tourist information centre. At first, the kindly lady at the counter was puzzled, saying in Japanese, "There is no Bessho Sasa here." We showed her our reservation slip with the address in Japanese, and suddenly her eyes opened rather wide and she became quite excitable. We were quite puzzled by her awed enthusiasm. "Oooh...! Very grand hoteru!!! You cannot miss," she said, before giving us directions in a string of Japanese, of which I only managed to pick out "right", "left", "straight ahead" (massugu) and a few "before that" (mae ni) and "afterwards" (ato ni) scattered in-between. Hubby understood her directions way better than I.

Hotel Kaneyamaen, Fuji Five Lakes

When we got there, I finally understand her reaction and "very grand hoteru" remark. I had thought her reaction was rather exaggerated, but I realised at first sight that it actually wasn't. Hotel Kaneyamaen is a pretty grand hotel, albeit in a slightly dated style. I was quite stunned by the beautiful lobby of the hotel. It was also clearly one of those fancy hotels that locals would use to host grand weddings.

There was a prominent stage platform surrounded by an indoor stream, set with Japanese taiko drums. During check-in, the hotel staff informed us that there would be a taiko performance at 8pm that's open to all hotel guests.

Everywhere we turned, our eyes would come to rest on something beautiful. I was quite intrigued by a large window display of streamers of white raffia-like woven fabric (hemp or jute?) floating against a background painted like the sky. Up close, little red wires twisted into dragonflies and hung sporadically among the streamers.

Also scattered around the lobby were various ikebana arrangements. Little alcoves with elegant ikebana arrangements, as well as spaces with larger, more dramatic floral arrangements. To my untrained eye, I cannot discern which ikebana school or whether they represented a modern approach to the traditional art form. But they were all beautiful. The largest arrangement was of persimmons (kaki), a popular autumn fruit in Japan. (Made my mouth water because I love persimmons.)

My favourite was a simple arching arrangement of three camellia blossoms (tsubaki) (also a great favourite of mine) in a slim hanging black vase - it was set against a backdrop of white gravel and bamboo, near a staircase. Another ikebana arrangement that I really liked was another simple arrangement of 2 yellow pompom mums set among slim, unruly twigs of red berries in a low oval black vase. Unfortunately I did not take a clear shot of this lovely arrangement.

Though it was late and we both badly wanted to have dinner and relax in an onsen, I was still tempted to linger at the lobby.

The separate section for Bessho Sasa

We were shown to our room, which was located in a separate wing of the hotel, via its own dedicated level. Apparently, Bessho Sasa is a separate wing of the hotel. Guests have their own reception, their own lounge area with free welcome cocktails, free-flow drinks and snacks. And Hubby surprised me. It wasn't a room, it was a dang suite! There was so much space we could throw a small party with room to spare.

Bessho Sasa, Hotel Kaneyamaen, Fuji Five Lakes

Like every other ryokan we have been to, we were served a hot towel, hot green tea and a snack; this time it was wagashi, a small slice of yokan that went nicely with the rich green tea. After tea, Yui and I went exploring the space and the facilities. (Omg yes, a nespresso machine!)

We still had some time before dinner, so we had a nice hot shower and took a soak in the outdoor onsen. It was long after sundown now, so Mount Fuji was hidden from our sight in the darkness.

For dinner, we both felt game to have some sake. It seems we have different preferences when it comes to sake - he prefers it chilled (reishu), I prefer it warm (atsukan). We both like it clear, though I prefer more floral sake. (His favourite at the moment is Dassai.) I don't think I have much of a head for sake though, as I can't drink a 90ml bottle to myself.

The Japanese have always well understood the concept that people also eat with their eyes. Our kaiseki dinner was beautifully presented, with all elements subtly or boldly proclaiming the autumn season. I enjoyed dinner, but I have a strong suspicion that I enjoyed the visual feast more. Especially because I love looking at dishware.

We first had a cold dish of handmade tofu, tender baby abalone, topped with two types of caviar. One I knew was spicy mentaiko, but I couldn't identify the other. It was served on a very beautiful lacquered plate of bright red showing through the goldleaf.

The second dish was an assortment of seasonal appetisers: grilled duck, steamed wild baby yam, grilled mochi, ginkgo nuts, sweet potato, etc. served on a red, wood plate and garnished with a sprig of rice and maple leaves (kaede). The cold ikura and seaweed were served in a square cut glass. (I learnt some time ago that chilled dishes are typically served in clear or frosted glass in Japan.)

We had sashimi: kanpachi (greater yellowtail), chu-toro and o-toro from hon-maguro (bluefin tuna), and murasaki uni. Followed by another chilled dish of simmered white-fleshed fish (I can't remember what kind of fish) with seaweed and various other condiments that I failed to identify.

Yamanashi wagyu with tempura vegetables

For the main course, we were presented with grilled Yamanashi wagyu beef with tempura (seasonal vegetables), served with sudachi and salt. The garnish was a sprig of some kind of edible succulent. The stalk and leaves were fleshy, its exterior was bright green with a fuzzy exterior covered with a dew-like substance. Eating it, the stalk and leaves were succulent and crisp, and the flavour salty. I've tried to discover the name of this edible succulent, but in vain.

Next was a clear consomme with simmered white-fleshed fish, served in a brick-red lacquerware bowl; then Ise lobster covered with fresh spring onion in a small terracotta pot.

To end the meal was a bowl of fluffy rice mixed with steamed sweet potatoes and sprinkled with black sesame seeds. Dessert was a slice of baked apple-filled pastry roll, black coffee jelly topped with whipped cream, a liqueur-soaked matcha cake and grapes. I was a little disappointed with dessert, as I was hoping for a traditional Japanese dessert to finish the meal.

But by some quirk (fate!), we were also served an after-dinner wagashi: kuzukiri (葛切り) in plum-flavoured syrup. I found it odd that we were served kuzukiri, as it is generally regarded as a summer wagashi, and typically served with a black sugar syrup (kuromitsu). But hey I'm not complaining, as I like kuzukiri. Hubby doesn't, so I get to have double portion. Yay~!

Following dinner, we went for a stroll in the hotel's extensive garden.

The gardens at Hotel Kaneyamaen, Fuji Five Lakes

The gardens at Hotel Kaneyamaen, Fuji Five Lakes

The gardens at Hotel Kaneyamaen, Fuji Five Lakes

We stopped at a little rest area in the garden, which I think was called Komorebi-an, and sat down for a little amazake (甘酒).

The gardens at Hotel Kaneyamaen, Fuji Five Lakes

I think we were fortunate as the hotel's gardens offered the best autumn-viewing we had all day. The autumn leaves illuminated by the spotlights, viewed in the shadows of night, present a very different view from daytime autumn-viewing.

Early the next morning, we had a morning soak in our outdoor onsen. The weather was chilly and overcast, so we missed out on the view - our room is supposed to have been an unobstructed view of Mount Fuji.

Yui Jamie taking a dip in the onsen, Bessho Sasa, Fuji Five Lakes

Yui Jamie taking a dip in the onsen, Bessho Sasa, Fuji Five Lakes

We did get a fleeting glimpse of Mount Fuji, but it was only a glimpse of the his snowy shoulders through a small gap in the clouds. I mentioned to Hubby that it was as though Mount Fuji was shyly passing by a small round Chinese window.

The gardens at Hotel Kaneyamaen, Fuji Five Lakes

After a sumptuous buffet breakfast in the hotel's dining hall, we went for a final stroll in the hotel's garden.

The gardens at Hotel Kaneyamaen, Fuji Five Lakes

Last night's night-time stroll among the illuminated autumn leaves did not show us everything that the garden had to offer. Like the lobby, the hotel's garden was well designed and landscaped, with little touches tucked here and there - water features and water-filled rock basins strewn with autumn leaves, moss-covered rocks trickling water, a little stream lined with rocks and sporadic shrubs in autumn colours, an outdoor onsen foot bath.

Camellia blossom, Hotel Kaneyamaen, Fuji Five Lakes

The gardens at Hotel Kaneyamaen, Fuji Five Lakes

The gardens at Hotel Kaneyamaen, Fuji Five Lakes

The gardens at Hotel Kaneyamaen, Fuji Five Lakes

The gardens at Hotel Kaneyamaen, Fuji Five Lakes

The gardens at Hotel Kaneyamaen, Fuji Five Lakes

The gardens at Hotel Kaneyamaen, Fuji Five Lakes

The gardens at Hotel Kaneyamaen, Fuji Five Lakes

In hindsight, I think the hotel's garden is one of the best autumn-viewing spots on this trip. I especially love this tree next to one of the 'houses' in the garden - a tall tree shrouded with leaves that graduate from yellow-gold at the bottom, to orange, and dusted with fiery red at the crown.

We popped by Yamanaka-ko again. There was a brief break in the clouds and we managed to catch most of Mount Fuji. Unlike how I've seen him against the clear blue winter skies, he looks broody and intimidating against the grey overcast skies.

Mount Fuji, Yamanaka-ko, Fuji Five Lakes

On the way to Kawaguchi-ko, we chanced on a hidden treasure in the area: Kaneyama Falls (鐘山の滝), a little stroll away from the road. It is a lovely spot, with the twin cascade surrounded by the autumn foliage.

Kaneyama Falls, Fuji Five Lakes

The small, roughly 10m high waterfall on the Kake River was created by lava from My Fuji. Legend has it that the daimyo Takeda Shingen once erected a bell tower at this spot but the bell fell and from then on, the sound of bells can sometimes be heard from the falls' basin. (Of course I don't believe a word of that.)

Momiji-gari with Yui Jamie (2015)
- I: Yamanaka-ko, Fuji Five Lakes
- II: Kawaguchi-ko, Fuji Five Lakes