Momijigari with Yui Jamie #2/2 - Kawaguchiko, Fuji Five Lakes

Enjoying the onsen bath, Fuji Five Lakes

A leisurely exploration of the Fuji Five Lakes area, together with several leisurely soaks in the onsen was enough to entertain us for two days. We checked out of Bessho Sasa in the Yamanakako area and headed for our next onsen and koyo-viewing destination: Kawaguchiko. (Not far from each other really.)

We lunched at Sanrokuen (山麓園), a popular robatayaki place where you slow grill your food over hot charcoal coals in a traditional irori (sunken hearth).

One of the staff told me that the building is about 150 years old and constructed of Japanese zelkova (keyaki). Apparently, the building used to be in Hida, Gifu Prefecture or, it was modeled after the architecture of old buildings in Hida, Gifu Prefecture - I can't say for sure, since my Japanese proficiency is only so-so. The main feature of the spacious but cozy dining area is the traditional irori, where the cooking of our meal (by ourselves) takes place.

Traditional irori charcoal hearth

Glowing-hot binchotan charcoal is spread in the irori. The charcoal is heated and kept in a huge iron and stone fireplace (or whatever it is called) that stands outside the restaurant entrance. After we were seated, they bring over the charcoal and lay it out on the irori. The heat emanating from the charcoal was so hot that I could feel the warmth seep into my bones, and feel my face flush from the heat. When I leaned closer to the irori, it almost felt as though my eyebrows were going to singe from the heat! We had to wear thick gloves when placing our skewers of food over the irori to shield our skin from the heat.

Traditional irori lunch at Sanrokuen, Fuji Five Lakes

So robata cooking is a very old country style of cooking that originated from northern Japanese fisherfolk. The food was placed in, over or around a communal hearth (the irori), which served as the cooking area and the heat source against the cold. In order to cook on their fishing boats, the fishermen encased binchotan charcoal in a stone box.

We had squid, duck, wild pig, Koshu beef, prawn, fish (either a trout or char), slabs of konnyaku smeared with miso and covered with a fresh perila leaf, tofu and an assortment of vegetables. Towards the end, we were served a large iron pot of hoto noodles in a thick miso-based broth.

Traditional irori lunch at Sanrokuen, Fuji Five Lakes

When our basket of ingredients arrived, the fish was still twitching. I was picking up the konnyaku, when the fish twitched violently a few times (and the tail flapped). I think the noise I made was somewhere between a yelp and a choked shriek. The tencho gave me a cheeky grin and then solemnly informed me that it was best to wait until the fish stopped twitching before we place it over the grill, otherwise it could potentially leap. (I am not sure if he was pulling my leg.)

Mount Fuji, Kawaguchiko

Momiji Kairou, Kawaguchiko

One of the best koyo spots at Kawaguchiko is the Momiji Kairou (もみじ回廊), or "Momiji Corridor". The Momiji Kairou is a stretch of maple and ginkgo trees along the canal at the northern shore of Kawaguchiko.

Momiji Kairou, Kawaguchiko

With the maple branches arching over the dry canal, filled with fallen autumn leaves. I think the best views are at the beginning of the canal, and from the bridge at the end.

The town also holds an annual autumn matsuri, the Kawaguchiko Momiji Festival, near the Momiji Kairou.

The Momiji Kairou is a popular koyo spot, so it was quite crowded (with locals and foreign tourists) and it can be more than a little annoying with the jostling and people who willfully pop up directly in front of me while I was taking a photograph. Whenever that happened, I'd just try to calm myself by raising my gaze to the tree-tops, and focusing on the blaze of colours.

Thankfully, there were some quieter corners where I could slowly linger, and drink in the sight of the brilliantly coloured leaves fluttering on the branches.

The maples along the shore of Kawaguchiko were already mostly bare, so there weren't many opportunities to photograph Mount Fuji framed by the autumn foliage. Though I did manage to find one spot, at the start of a pathway leading to the shore. The summit of Mount Fuji was partially shrouded, however.

We also took a drive out to another spot, a stretch of road flanked by maple trees, called the Momiji Tunnel. Didn't take any photographs however, as a stead drizzle sprung up when we arrived at the spot. The view was not as lovely as the Momiji Kairou and the leaves had not yet started turning.

Fujiyoshida Sengen Shrine, Fuji Five Lakes

We wandered into the Fujiyoshida Shrine, formally known as Kitaguchi Hongū Fuji Sengen Jinja (北口本宮冨士浅間神社), at the north base of Mount Fuji. The shrine is located in a dense forest, and the approach to the shrine is long and lined with stone lanterns and tall cedar trees.

Fujiyoshida Sengen Shrine, Fuji Five Lakes

According to Japanese folklore, the shrine has a history of 1900 years, beginning with the ancient Japanese emperor Yamato Takeru-no-mikoto. He was said to have worshipped Mount Fuji at this location when he set out on an expedition to the east, and had declared that the spirit of Mount Fuji was to be worshipped from the north.

Most Fuji Sengen shrines in Japan are dedicated to Konohanasakuya-hime-no-mikoto, the Shinto deity associated with Mount Fuji. The main Fujiyoshida Sengen Shrine enshrines Konohanasakuya-hime-no-mikoto as the main god, together with her father Ohyamazumi-no-kami and her husband Ninigi-no-mikoto (according to Japanese myth, the grandson of Amaterasu-omikami and ancestor of the first emperor of Japan).

The head shrine of all Sengen shrines is Fujisan Hongū Sengen Taisha, which is located in Fujinomiya, on the opposite side of Mount Fuji.

In front of the main hall is the goshinboku (sacred grove) where there are two ancient trees which have been designated as natural monuments. The trees are said to be about 1,000 years old and are believed to protect the shrine. I was fascinated with the height of these trees and their ancient age, but I think the tree that stole all the attention was the ginkgo tree opposite these two trees, next to the torii gate. It was tall and impressive, and completely covered with vivid gold-yellow leaves.

Fujiyoshida Sengen Shrine, Fuji Five Lakes

Fujiyoshida Sengen Shrine was formerly the main starting point for climbing Mount Fuji from the north. But, in modern times, climbers now begin their climb from the fifth station, located halfway up Mount Fuji. Traditionalists apparently still use the trailhead located next to Fujiyoshida Sengen Shrine and begin their climb with a prayer before they pass through the torii gate.

Onsenji Yumedono, Fuji Five Lakes

After a chilly and drizzly day out, chasing autumn, nothing beats returning to a comfortable and warm room, with the thought of the onsen bath and a kaiseki dinner.

Onsenji Yumedono is an old favourite of ours since December 2012, and we recommended it to our friends for the winter 2013 trip. This time, instead of the traditional Japanese-style room (Yumedono), we picked a Western-Japanese styled room (Yukari). I like it, but I prefer the Japanese-style room. I suppose I can't forget the previous times we stayed and how I tucked myself into the kotatsu.

Dinner started with an aperitif - a white wine made in the Yamanashi region. There was a cold appetiser of softly crisp greens in a vinegar-infused mayo-like sauce. I got to enjoy a double portion since Hubby hates greens.

In fact, whenever we have kaiseki at a ryokan, I get to enjoy double portion of certain dishes since fresh and pickled vegetables, and tofu feature prominently in Japanese cuisine.

The start of every kaiseki is always an assortment of small dishes made with seasonal ingredients, along a seasonal theme. I couldn't help making comparisons with the one at Bessho Sasa. The one at Bessho Sasa was more sophisticated and intricately prepared and presented, but the one at Yumedono had a warm and homely feel, and the quality or freshness of the ingredients were definitely not inferior.

We had an clear soup with eel fishball and shimeijii mushrooms, and an lightly broiled eel oshizushi. Oshizushi is a pressed sushi, formed using the oshibako, a wooden box.

Also an assortment of sashimi: prawn, squid, uni, maguro, tai (sea bream)...and I confess I can't remember what else.

The hot-stone grilled regional beef and vegetables (baby carrot, daikon turnip, broccoli and pumpkin) is definitely my favourite dish.

There was a cold, vinegared dish, a vegetable sushi wrapped in thinly sliced sheets of lightly pickled cucumber. Very cold and very refreshing. Hubby hated it on sight, so I got extra! (^.^) I reluctantly surrendered a slice of my beef in exchange.

Light and crunchy tempura of prawn, shimeiji and shiitake and green peppers, pumpkin and eggplant. (I also get extras in exchange for my prawn.)

Dinner finished with porridge and pickles. And dessert was vanilla ice cream with strawberry coulis, a pear jelly and fresh fruit topped with whipped cream and chocolate sauce. (And what joy, I get extra pear jelly!!!)

Momiji-gari with Yui Jamie (2015)
- I: Yamanaka-ko, Fuji Five Lakes
- II: Kawaguchi-ko, Fuji Five Lakes