Shion in Japan #1/5 - Kyoto, Uji & Nara

Shion, waiting for the shinkansen.

Travelled with Shion Brier to Japan in December 2013 and spent Christmas and the New Year 2014 there with Hubby, Shion, Caramelaw and another friend whom shall be termed "Travel Companion #4". Our trip had to be broken down into 3 main phases because we all couldn't match our leave days exactly.

The first phase of our trip was just Hubby, Shion and me, and was centred around sightseeing. We went to Kyoto, Uji and Nara (Day 1, Day 2), and then to Hiroshima and Miyajima. Following that, we met up with Caramelaw to commence our second phase, which centered on toy hunting around Tokyo. And finally, in the third phase, Travel Companion #4 was to join us for the remainder of the trip, where we went to Fuji Five Lakes, Kamakura, and then back to Tokyo and Enoshima.

JR Kyoto Station

We first landed in Tokyo, caught the next available train from Narita Airport into Shinagawa Station where we then caught the next available shinkansen to get to Kyoto. We got into Kyoto in the evening and the sun was setting. It was a relief to be able to immediately check into our accommodation and laze for a bit before heading out to dinner. It was also a relief that we stayed a short 5-minute walk from KR Kyoto Station.

Shion was quite excited (her first time travelling to Japan); she certainly seemed more energetic than her mummy and daddy...

Day 1: Kyoto and Uji (京都と宇治)

We took a morning stroll around Teramachi Street (寺町通) and Nishiki Market (錦市場), Kyoto's centuries old wholesale market. We then strolled to the Omotesando Koffee at Shijo Street (四条通) for my morning cuppa.

I read about the Omotesando Koffee on Timeout.com and Tokyo Eats, but hadn't expected to find it in Kyoto. Found this place partly by chance in our previous trip to Kyoto, and was really glad because they do very good espresso coffees.

Had breakfast at the St Marc Cafe on Shijo Street. They have flavours that one can't find in Singapore, like the white chocolate and peach croissant. I opted for the peach croissant, and Hubby had the signature chocolate croissant.

After breakfast, we took the train from Kyoto JR station to Uji (宇治). No real major plan... just planned to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the area and a couple of centuries old tea shops... which Uji is famed for.

The Ujigami Shrine (宇治上神社), purportedly one of Japan's oldest Shinto shrines, was built around 1060 as a guardian shrine to the Byodoin (平等院). The honden (main hall) and haiden (worship hall) are designated National Treasures of Japan - the honden dates back to the late Heian period (794-1185), and the haiden dates to the Kamakura period (1185-1333).

At Byodo-in, Uji

We also visited Byodoin (平等院), the better known UNESCO World Heritage Site in Uji. Unfortunately for us, the celebrated Phoenix Hall (鳳凰堂) (officially, Amida Hall), which was built in 1053, was closed for conservation works.

Originally built in the Heian period (around 998) as a villa for the powerful and influential Minister of the Left (左大臣, Sadaijin) Minamoto no Shigenobu, it was then acquired by Fujiwara no Michinaga (藤原 道長) some time after Minamoto's death, and then founded as a Buddhist temple in 1052 by Michinaga's son, Fujiwara no Yorimichi (藤原 頼通).

In Japanese history, Fujiwara no Michinaga represents the peak of the Fujiwara clan's power and influence in the Japanese government, as he exerted de facto reign over Japan and continued to hold much influence in political affairs even after being succeeded by his son Fujiwara Yorimichi.

Late autumn foliage at Byodo-in, Uji

Michinaga had familial ties with the Minamoto clan and the Japanese Imperial family, as the son-in-law of Minamoto no Masanobu and Minamoto no Takaakira (both Ministers of the Left). The fact that during his career at court, he was father to three empresses (Shoshi, Kenshi, Ishi and Kishi), uncle to Emperor Sanjo, and grandfather to Emperor Go-Ichijo and Emperor Go-Suzaku further cemented his position.

After Byodoin, I stopped by the venerable quincentenary 500-year-old Kanbayashi (上林三入) and bought some gyokuro as gifts. Kanbayashi was first established in the Tensho era (during the Momoyama period) (1573-1592) and was the Shogunate's tea supplier of tea and the master of tea ceremony. Today, they continue to produce tea using traditional methods they inherited, run a tearoom, provide a matcha tea ceremony experience, and also maintain a tea reference library which stores the data and reference materials that has been passed down from generation-to-generation.

We then took a tea break at the cafe at Nakamura Tokichi (中村藤吉本店) (thankfully, no queue!) which was set up by the 150-year-old tea shop Nakamura Tokichi. I had the matcha chiffon cake set with matcha tea. Hubby had the zenzai and gyokuro green tea. And yes, I had the privilege of checking out the 200-year-old black pine "Horai Funamatsu" in their front garden.

On the way back, we saw a bunch of elementary school kids in their bright yellow hats and school bags walking home along the old cobbled streets...so cute! Also stopped by a superb Western sweets at Pâtisserie Yuji (opposite Nakamura Tokichi Cafe) and bought two cakes to enjoy in the onsen tonight. For a small town, Uji has a lot of delicious stuff....

Hanayashiki Ukifune-en, Uji

We were staying at the Hanayashiki Ukifune-en (花やしき浮舟園), and from our traditional Japanese style room, we could enjoy the onsen and the view of Ujigawa.

Steakhouse Hanayashiki, Hanayashiki Ukifune-en, Uji

Hanayashiki Ukifune-en has three restaurants: a Japanese restaurant called Satori, Steakhouse Hanayashiki, and a sumiyaki yakitori restaurant called Roan. We chose to have dinner at Steakhouse Hanayashiki (ステーキハウス花やしき).

Hubby had a cold Asahi beer to start off. (I think I had umeshu. What an old woman I am.) We both ordered the Hana dinner set. The first hors d'oeuvre of cold salad of salmon sashimi, julienned daikon radish, carrot and wasabi sprouts with a yuzu dressing.

Second hors d'oeuvre was the chef's creation: a steamed egg custard with crab, mushroom and cauliflower. The custard is made using egg, milk and cream. The flavours are surprisingly complex despite the simple ingredients. I LOVED IT! Third hors d'oeuvre of grilled scallops, grilled capsicum, fresh lettuce and renkon chips.

Fourth course was soup of the day: a warm, comforting and delicious sweet potato soup. The main course was Japanese kuro-gyu with teppanyaki vegetables (eryngii, eggplant and turnip). Hubby chose the Japanese kuro-gyu tenderloin.

I had the Japanese kuro-gyu sirloin. The marbling of the sirloin was superb, and of course, so was the flavour. On the menu, "Japanese kuro-gyu" was written literally as "Japanese black cow". I'm not entirely sure if the restaurant was referring to Kuroge washu (黒毛和種), the Japanese Black, which is a breed of wagyu.

Dessert was an autumnal creme brûlée - delicate, velvety topped with creme patissiere and soft chestnuts, with rum-and-raisin ice cream on the side, and bloody delicious hand-made chocolate truffles.

Day 2: Uji and Nara (宇治と奈良)

Woke up to the morning light on the shoji screens and a mixed sense of excitement and reluctance because we're leaving the quiet tranquility of Hanayashiki Ukifune-en for Nara.

It was mainly my fault that we had a late start and arrived at Nara after midday.

The crowds at Nara, for the Era Procession. (=_='')

Due to my tardiness, we missed out on the main part of the Kasuga Wakamiya On-matsuri, i.e. the kagura (dances and music dedicated to the kami) and the bugaku (court music and traditional dance).

The Kasuga Wakamiya On-matsuri (春日若宮おん祭) is a huge annual festival at the Wakamiya Shrine (若宮神社), an auxillary shrine within the grounds of the Kasuga Taisha (春日大社).

We were in time for the Era Procession (the Jidai Gyrotesu), but the best spots were already crowded with people. The Era Procession is basically a procession of about 500 people who reproduce the dress, customs and manners of each era in Japanese history - from 9th century Heian era to 19th century Edo era.

It was probably not the best decision to go to Nara at this time...the narrow streets were clogged with massive crowds, most of which were awaiting the Era Procession, and we had to fight our way through to get to the other shrines. But we didn't miss the food stalls! There was grilled squid which reminded me of Nyanko-sensei. And no Japanese festival is complete without taiyaki (鯛焼き).

Ema at Kofukuji, Nara

We visited by the UNESCO World Heritage listed Kofukuji (興福寺), established in 669 or 710 by the wife of Fujiwara no Kamatari (藤原 鎌足). Kofukuji is a landmark and symbol of Nara, and was another patron temple of the influential Fujiwara clan during the Nara and Heian eras.

Tokondo and five-storied pagoda, Kofukuji, Nara

The Eastern Golden Hall was under reconstruction when we were there, but we saw the Southern Octagonal Hall (which apparently dates to 1210). Also saw the Tokondo (東金堂) and the 50-m five-storied pagoda (五重塔), which are both designated National Treasures of Japan. The five-storied pagoda is supposedly the second tallest in Japan. (The tallest is in Kyoto's Toji.)

There are deer are everywhere in Nara. And OMG their poop is almost always underfoot. The Nara deer are quite shameless... They come after you to hustle for your food and...uh-hmmm...

As to why Nara is full of free-roaming deer... These deer are wild shika and are classified as a natural treasure in Japan. In Japanese folklore, the deer were considered sacred and divine because the Shinto god of thunder, Takemikazuchi-no-mikoto (建御雷/武甕槌) (one of the four kami of Kasuga Taisha) visited the area riding a white deer. After WWII, the deer were stripped of their sacred status and instead designated as natural treasures.

Nandaimon, Todaiji, Nara

While Kofukuji may be the symbol of Nara, I personally see Todaiji (東大寺) as the architectural and cultural highlight of Nara. Originally built around 743-745, Todaiji has been reconstructed several times due to multiple fires and earthquakes. The Nandaimon (南大門) of Todaiji, also a designated National Treasure of Japan, is a reconstruction based on 12th century Chinese Song dynasty architectural style.

Daibutsuden, Todaiji, Nara

Todaiji's Kondo (金堂), also called the Daibutsuden (大仏殿), is reputably one of the world's largest wooden buildings and one of Japan's many UNESCO World Heritage sites. It was rebuilt twice after by fires and the present structure is actually smaller than the former building. From the outer encircling gate (with the entrance at the vermilion Chuumon), one can't appreciate the full significance and size of the hall, but that became quite clear on our approach.

The Daibutsuden houses Japan's largest bronze statue of the Buddha Vairocana (the Daibutsu, 大仏), which measures about 15m tall and weighs 500 tonnes. It has also been damaged many times by earthquakes and, according to Japanese guides, its hands date back to the Momoyama period (1568-1615) and its head to the Edo period (1615-1867). Inside the Daibutsuden are also massive statues of two of the Shitenno (四天王): Bishamonten (毘沙門天) (the Japanese god of war and one of the Seven Gods of Fortune) and Komokuten (広目天).

Naturally, we went to see the famed (and numerous) hanging bronze lanterns of the Kasuga Taisha (春日大社), another UNESCO World Heritage listed site in Japan.

Tsuri-doro at Kasuga Taisha, Nara

During our visit, most of the shrine's complex was under conservation and reconstruction, but we did go to the inner buildings to see the collection of lanterns, and the distinctive kasuga-zukuri (春日造) architectural style of the shrine was evident.

Kasuga Taisha was established in 768 and was a patron Shinto shrine of the powerful Fujiwara clan during the Nara and Heian period. In the early Heian period, the shrine was the object of Imperial patronage. In those periods, Kasuga Taisha was customarily rebuilt every 20 years, but that custom ended in the late Edo period.

The hanging bronze lanterns are called tsuri-doro (吊り灯籠) or kaitomoshi (掻灯); the gilt bronze ones are called kondo-doro (金銅燈籠). The sections of the bronze hanging lanterns supposedly represent the five elements of Buddhist cosmology.

Apparently about 3,000 stone lanterns, called ishi-doro (石灯籠), line the way to the Kasuga Taisha and the Kasugayama Primeval Forest which itself is another UNESCO World Heritage listed site. Apparently, the lanterns are lit only twice a year, in February and mid-August during the lantern festival.


Shion in Japan (Dec 2013~Jan 2014)
- I. Kyoto, Uji & Nara
- II. Enryakuji, Hiroshima & Miyajima
- III. Kyoto & Tokyo
- IV. Mt Fuji & Kamakura
- V. Tokyo & Enoshima