Doll Coordinate Recipe Kimono — English translation (revised on 13.06.2021)

(This post was edited on 13 June 2021, 9:55am.)

Using the Doll Coordinate Recipe Kimono book by chimachoco-san...

In the last kimono & yukata project (posted here), I used the pattern from chimachoco-san's Doll Coordinate Recipe Kimono,¹ which I had to slowly figure out as it was all in Japanese. At the time, I'd had something of a working draft in English going, which I'm sharing in this post. Not the entire book, just excerpts containing sewing instructions and tips. The main part (How to Make Kimono) is set out below, with the rest in a 68-page PDF (view here). Update (13 June 2021): Revisions to the working draft are marked in red and blue below, but the PDF is not yet updated.

So, I started on this working draft soon after I bought the book — can't remember precisely when, sometime in late 2016/early 2017.... The idea was that I'd have a working copy in English lying around. It was months of effort and struggle during my free time, which I had little of, and because I have no formal training in Japanese or translation work, among other things. Being largely self-taught, I had to also draw from other resources to aid me. Towards the end, I pretty much wanted to be over and done with the translating, really. Kudos to people who do it for a living!

At this point here, I raise the usual disclaimers. Apologies for errors, inaccuracies, or inelegant renderings. I am sharing free of charge in the spirit of sharing and for the love of Blythe, etc. So please be kind and cut me some slack, considering that this is an unofficial translation (loose translation) which I've made gratuitously, with no formal training in Japanese or translation work!

That said, I emphasise that this is not a substitute for the actual book, so if you don't have the book Doll Coordinate Recipe Kimono by chimachoco, please get it. Please support the author and respect her rights. Having used it, I think it's a great book to have.

HOW TO MAKE KIMONO

(Excerpt from chimachoco-san's Doll Coordinate Kimono book, pages 20 to 22.)

着物の名称 : Names of the Kimono
袖幅 (sodehaba): Sleeve width 
肩幅 (katahaba): Shoulder width (kata-haba)
裄 (ゆき) (yuki): Back seam to end of sleeve (explained below)
袖 (sode): Sleeve 
背縫い (senui): Back seam
衿 (eri): Collar
身丈 (mitake): Garment length
身八つ口 (miyatsukuchi): Small side opening in the garment body
袖つけ (sodetsuke): Sleeve seam
袖口 (sodeguchi): Sleeve cuff
振り (furi): Unsewn part of the sleeve; literally "swing"
たもと (tamoto): Sleeve pouch
丸み (marumi): Curve of the sleeve (see below)
脇縫い (waki-nui): Side seam
裾 (suso): Hem
※襦袢もどき (juban modoki): Mock undergarment
※おはしょり (ohashori): The waist fold
※身頃 (migoro): Garment body/bodice
※裏地 (uraji): Lining

※はchimachocoオリジナルパーツ : ※chimachoco original part

着物のサイズを決める長さ : Length to determine kimono size
裄(ゆき) : 背から袖口までの長さ。
= Yuki : Length from the back seam to sleeve cuff/opening (sodeguchi).
肩幅 : 背から袖つけ部分までの長さ。
= Shoulder width : Length from the back seam (senui) to the sleeve seam (sodetsuke).
袖幅 : 袖つけ部分から袖口までの長さ。
= Sleeve width : Length from the sleeve seam (sodetsuke) to the sleeve cuff (sodeguchi).
身丈 : 肩から裾までの長さ。

= Garment length : Length from the shoulder to the hem.

各部の名称 : Name of each part
衿 : 首周りのパーツ。胸元で交差させる。
= Collar (eri) : Part around the neck. Cross at the chest.
袖 : 両腕をおおうパーツ。長さに種類がある。

= Sleeve (sode): Part covering both arms. There are various lengths.
袖つけ : 身頃と袖を縫い合わせた部分。

= Sleeve seam (sodetsuke) : Part where the garment body and sleeve are sewn together.
振り : 袖つけ下にあるあき。
= Furi : Unsewn part of the sleeve below the sleeve seam (sodetsuke).
身八つ口 : 身頃側にある脇のあき。女性物のみ。
Miyatsukuchi : Opening at the side of the garment body. For women only.
丸み : 袖下部のカーブ。
Marumi : Curve at the lower part of the sleeve.
たもと : 袖つけから下の袖の袋状になった部分。
Sleeve pouch (tamoto) : Pouch-like part of the lower sleeve below the sleeve seam (sodetsuke).
背縫い : 後ろで身頃どうしを縫い合わせた部分。
Back seam (senui) : Where the back of the garment body is sewn together.
脇縫い : 前と後ろの身頃を縫い合わせた部分。
Side seam (wakinui) : Where the front and back of the garment body is sewn together, the seams at the sides of the garment body

chimachocoオリジナルパーツ : chimachoco Original Parts
身頃 (migoro) : Garment Body/Bodice
身頃の前部分のおくみというパーツを省略してカンタンにしました。
Made easy by omitting the okumi on the front of the garment body.

(T/N Note: The okumi is a seam that runs through the front of the kimono's left and right panels. I have included it in some dolly kimono I made, by making adjustments to the pattern.)

裏地 (uraji): Lining
胴裏と八掛にわけて作る着物裏を省略して長めの八掛つけ、裏地としました。
[The torso lining and sleeve lining are omitted. ...(?) Note: All I get in this sentence is about omitting the torso lining and lining around the sleeves, and the kimono being lined at the lower half.]

襦絆もどき (juban modoki): Mock undergarment
振りから長襦絆の袖がのぞいているように見えることで、長襦袢なしでも、つけているように見せています。
As it looks like the sleeves of the nagajuban (undergarment) are peeping out of the unsewn part of the sleeve (furi), although there is no nagajuban, it looks like a nagajuban is worn.

おはしょり : Ohashori
本来は着つけのときに作る、おはしょりをあらかじめ作っておくことで、きれいに着られるようにしました。
Originally made while dressing, the ohashori is prepared beforehand to make it possible to dress the kimono neatly.

(T/N Note: The ohashori is the fold at the waist/hip. The kimono is traditionally longer than the dress length of a person. When dressing, the excess is folded at the waist to adjust the dress length. That folded portion is the ohashori. A neat ohashori is a mark of a well-fitted kimono. The ohashori is a historical feature of the kimono. Read more about the ohashori here.)

着物 : Kimono
⚫用尺 : Measurements for use
※着物の並巾は36〜38cmですが、余裕を持たせて40cmにしています。
※The wide of the kimono is between 36〜38cm, but is 40cm with seam allowance.

ブライス: 着物用布40^※ｘ55cm、裏地用布20ｘ20cm、襦絆もどき用布10ｘ20cm
Blythe: cloth for kimono 40^※x55cm, cloth for lining 20x20cm, cloth for mock undergarment 10x20cm
 ミディブライス: 着物用布30ｘ40^※cm、裏地用布15ｘ20cm、襦袢もどき用布10ｘ30cm
Middie Blythe: cloth for kimono 30x40^※cm, cloth for lining 15x20cm, cloth for mock undergarment 10x30cm
共通: 幅1.5cm線ガーゼテープ（2本分）40cm
All: 1.5cm wide cotton gauze tape (2 pieces) 40cm

ブライス、ミディブライスの型紙はとじ込み付録実物大型紙A
Pattern for Blythe, Middie Blythe in attached annex Actual Size Pattern Paper A
バービーの型紙はとじ込み付録実物大型紙B
Pattern for Barbie in attached annex Actual Size Pattern Paper B


1. 型紙の裁ち線で布を裁つ。Cut cloth along the pattern's cutting lines.

2. 出来上がり線を印つけする。Mark the seam lines.
In diagram:
背 : Back
肩 : Shoulder
袖口 : Sleeve cuff
◯はつけどまり位置 : ◯ is the position of the end of the seam

3. 身頃を中表に重ね、背を縫い合わせる。Align the back of the garment body, right sides facing inside, and sew together.
In diagram:
身頃(裏) : Garment body (wrong side)
縫う : Sew

4. 3の背の縫い代を割る。Separate the back seam allowance of Step 3.
In diagram:
身頃(裏) : Garment body (wrong side)
縫い代 : Seam allowance

5. 4と袖を肩中心で合わせて中表に重ねつけどまりの印から印の間を縫い。From Step 4, align the sleeves to the centre of the sleeve shoulder, right sides facing inside, sew together the part between the points marked ◯.

In diagram:
身頃(裏) : Garment body (wrong side)
袖(表) : Sleeve (right side)
縫う : Sew
◯はつけどまり位置 : ◯ is the position of the end of the seam

6. 5を肩山で中表に２つ折りし、袖を開いて脇を縫い合わせる。Fold in half at the highest point of the shoulder shoulder peak in Step 5 with the right sides facing inside, open the sleeves and sew the sides together.
In diagram:
肩 : Shoulder
袖(裏) : Sleeve (wrong side)
身頃(裏) : Garment body (wrong side)
脇を縫う : Sew the side

7. 6で縫った脇の縫い代を割る。Separate the seam allowance of the sides in Step 6.
In diagram:
袖(表)、袖(裏) : Sleeve (right side), sleeve (wrong side)
身頃(裏) : Garment body (wrong side)
脇 : Side

8. 袖口を残してたもとを縫い合わせ　丸みの縫い代にしつけを掛ける。
Leaving aside the sleeve cuffs, sew together the tamoto; tack the seam allowance of the marumi.
In diagram:
身頃(裏) : Garment body (wrong side)
袖(裏) : Sleeve body (wrong side)
袖口 : Sleeve cuff
①たもとを縫う : ① Sew the tamoto
②丸みにしつけ : ② Tack the marumi

9. 裾と裏地を中表に重ねてまち針を打つ。Align the lining and hem, right sides facing inside, and pin down at several points.
In diagram:
身頃(表) : Garment body (right side)
裏地(裏) : Lining (wrong side)
袖(表) : Sleeve (right side)
まち針 : Marking pin
裾 : Hem

10. 9の出来上がり線を縫い、裏地を表に返す。Sew along the seam lines of Step 9, turn the lining over out to the right side.
In diagram:
袖(表) : Sleeve (right side)
身頃(表) : Garment body (right side)
裏地(裏) : Lining (wrong side)
縫う : Sew

11. 裏地の上部をしつけ掛けする。Tack the upper portion of the lining.
In diagram:
袖(表) : Sleeve (right side)
裏地(表) : Lining (right side)
しつけ : Tack

12. 衿のカーブがきれいに縫いえるように身頃の縫い代に切り込みを入れる。So that the curve of the collar can be sewn neatly, notch the seam allowance of the garment body.
In diagram:
身頃(裏) : Garment body (wrong side)
切り込み : Cut/notch

(T/N Note: Only need to notch where the collar curves.)

13. 身頃と衿を中心で中表に重ねて写真の順にまち針を打つ。Align the centre of the garment body with the collar centre of the garment body and collar, right sides facing inside, pin in the order shown in the photograph.
In diagram:
袖(表) : Sleeve (right side)
身頃(裏) : Garment body (wrong side)
衿(表) : Collar (right side)
裏地(表) : Lining (right side)
中心 : Centre

14. 13の衿と身頃を出来上がり線上で縫い合わせる。Sew together the collar and garment body in Step 13 along the seam line.
In diagram:
衿(表) : Collar (right side)
身頃(裏) : Garment body (wrong side)
縫う : Sew
裏地(表) : Lining (right side)

15. 縫い代を包んで処理してまつる。（縫い代の処理は24ページ参照）Wrap around the seam allowance, and blind stitch to fasten. (See page 24 for how to deal with the seam allowance.)²
In diagram:
衿(表) : Collar (right side)
まつる : Blind stitch
身頃(裏) : Garment body (wrong side)
裏地(表) : Lining (right side)

16. 裏地のしつけ糸が隠れるようにおはしょり分をつまんでまち針を打つ。To conceal the tacking thread of the lining, pinch down the ohashori portion and pin to fasten.
In diagram:
身頃(表) : Garment body (right side)
まち針 : Marking pin
１おはしょり分 : 1cm ohashori segment

17. 16を縫っておはしょりを作る。縫い目が目立たぬように細かめに。Sew Step 16 to form the ohashori. Sew fine stitches so they are not noticeable.

18. 衿の端に線ガーゼテープを縫いつける。Sew on the gauze tape at the ends of the collar.

襦袢もどきの作り方 : How to make the mock undergarment
※伸縮性のない布を使用する場合は、１cm長めに調整しましょう。
※In the case of non-stretch cloth, adjust to 1cm longer.

1. 布を２つ折りにし、端を縫う。Fold the cloth in half and sew the edge.

2. 1の縫い代を割る。Separate the seam allowance of Step 1.

3. 中心で表に折り返し、リング状にする。Fold and turn out at the centre, to make a ring.

4. 布端をぐるりとなみ縫いする。Sew around the cloth edge.

5. わが袖口側にくるようにして着物の袖の中に入れ込む。Place in the kimono sleeve as if it is peeping out of the sides of the furi (unsewn part of the sleeve).
In diagram:
丸み : Marumi, the curved part of the sleeve
袖(表) : Sleeve (right side)
振り : Furi, the unsewn part of the sleeve
わ : Centrefold
(表) : (right side)

6. 底の丸み側にまち針を打ち 肩山側を開いて、さらにまち針を打つ。Pin to the bottom of the marumi side of the sleeve; spread out the shoulder portion and pin.
In diagram:
丸み : Marumi, the curved part of the sleeve
袖底 : Sleeve bottom
肩山 : Highest point of shoulder/shoulder peak
①縦にまち針 : ① Pin lengthwise
②横にまち針 : ② Pin across / horizontally

7. 肩山側を袖にまつって縫いとめる。Blind stitch at the sleeve shoulder to secure the mock undergarment.
In diagram:
丸み : Marumi
底 : Bottom
肩山 : Highest point of shoulder/shoulder peak
２まつる : 2cm blind stitch

8. 底を2針すくって縫いとめる。袖の表に縫い目が響かないよう注意する。Make 2 needle scoops[?]³ at bottom and sew to secure. Pass the needle through the bottom twice and sew to fasten. Be careful that the stitches do not have an effect on the front of the sleeve.

(T/N note: I'd also add, make sure the stitches are not visible from the right side.)

9. 着物の完成。袖口から襦袢の袖がのぞいているよう。Completion of the kimono. It seems like the sleeve of the juban is peeping from the cuff.


Nothing else to add at the end, except... Let's have fun making things for Blythe! o(^∇^)o

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1. Full title:「和のドールコーディネートレシピ　着物、小物作りから、へアアレンジまで」chimachocoちまちょこ(著), Dolly*Dolly Books, Graphics-sha (2013). Romaji: Wa no dooru kodineto reshipi kimono, komono tsukuri kara, hea arenji made (trans. "Japanese Doll Coordinate Recipe: From Kimono, Accessories to Hair Arrangement") (See Amazon.com).

2. The technique referred to is bias binding, with the inside finished by hand. Useful guide to bias binding: Blueprints for Sewing, "Tutorial: Bias Facings and Bindings", and Christine Haynes, "A Guide to Facings".

3. That's what the book stated. I guess she means stitches?