Pintuck Blouse in nani IRO "suzuran field - Lille" (nani IRO 2017)
Pintuck blouse in nani IRO 'suzuran field - Lille (リール)' (on IG) |
Completed a pintuck blouse in nani IRO 'suzuran field - Lille (リール)' double gauze cotton a few days ago.
Bought 1.5m of the fabric from Nekoneko Fabric several months ago — partly on a whim, partly to make a nude/beige sheath dress. But I didn't check when I submitted my order; I'd planned to get 3m, but didn't check the number of units I ordered, which turned out to be 3 x 0.5m.( ̄□ ̄||)
Adapted Pattern D of Kayaki Machiko's My Favorite Shirt1 (p.9, 46-47) into a pintuck blouse with short sleeves. Been wanting to use this pattern for over a year, but couldn't settle on which nani IRO fabric to use. (For a working English translation, click here for the PDF or see Translations page.)
Had to take the pattern in by several sizes (by at least 10~15cm) because the size 9 (smallest) was still too large. This is something I struggle with, even after referencing some online sewing tutorials, and having done it for the other DIY wardrobe projects.
As for fabric selection, 'suzuran field - Lille (リール)' is pretty suitable, I think? The design is fairly simple; it's not busy, so the pintucks get lost, but it isn't just plain solid beige. That said, I love pintucks, but they're a pain to hand-stitch.
Hand-stitching pintucks is a pain.... (on IG) |
On an interesting side note, Naomi Ito's inspiration for the fabric design is La Fête du Muguet, and the French May Day custom in which one gives lily-of-the-valley (鈴蘭 in Japanese) to mothers and close friends, and apparently it symbolises luck and prosperity, an expression of affection, a token of appreciation... And it also symbolises marital happiness...no wonder it's a popular bridal flower.
Pattern D, Kayaki Machiko's My Favorite Shirt (on IG) |
Modifications to the pattern:
(1) Garment length
- Shortened to 55cm, blouse length
(2) Sleeve
- Shortened sleeve length to 12cm (peak to cuff seam line) *should have also shortened the part below the sleeves to 2.5cm
- Measurements of the armhole and the top of the sleeve did not match up, so gathered the top of the sleeve at the shoulder peak — worked out fine, but will have to fix this issue!
(3) Cuff
- Gathered to 25cm diameter *27cm would've given a little more give and been more comfortable...
(4) V neckline — bias facing instead of bias binding *I still don't like how it looks, maybe make a facing the next time...
(5) Collar reinforced with 3 sheets of organza, since I have no fusible interfacing
(6) Omitted the lace (for the collar), waist cord and cord loops
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1. Full title:「私の好きなシャツスタイル -my favorite shirt-」茅木真智子(著)、文化出版局、2009. Romaji: Watashi no sukina Shatsu Sutairu -my favorite shirt-. English: My Favorite Shirt Style -my favorite shirt-, Kayaki Machiko (Author), Bunka Publishing Bureau, 2009 (Amazon Jp).
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