Yui Jamie's Japanese Summer: Tokyo, Kyoto, Kamikochi, Matsumoto & Himeji

This July, Hubby took me (and Yui Jamie) to Japan. Mostly as a congratulatory vacation for passing a(nother) milestone, and the achievement of a resolution made several years ago. 

Yui at Mastumoto Castle. It was a really hot summer day... (on IG)

No point posting a day-by-day exposition, so it's just highlights!

SYMBOLS OF SUMMER

Yui and hozuki (a summer icon in Japan) at Haneda Airport (on IG)

There was a display of hozuki (鬼灯; Japanse lantern plant) for sale at Haneda Airport. In Japan, hozuki are during O-bon (お盆; the Bon Festival) as offerings to guide the souls of the deceased. (O-bon is the Japanese version of the Chinese Hungry Ghost Festival.)

The classic summer flowers of Japan, like the morning glory plant in a graceful wicker basket that was artfully placed at the entrance to our hotel, the hydrangeas and kikyo (Chinese bell-flower) in bloom in people's backyards. The vivid red of summer berries...

I have a weak spot for yukata... Morning glory yukata and wisteria yukata (on IG)

In Japan, I like to go depato-hopping. This trip, I ended up buying 2 yukata and 2 hanhaba obi at Mitsukoshi Ginza. Oops.

Another morning glory yukata (on IG)?

Actually, most of my unused doll budget went into various things, like those 2 yukata, including a 3rd yukata (a pale blue with white asagao) and an olive-green hanhaba obi at Takashimaya Shinjuku. (I feel somewhat guilty when I think about the thistle-pattern yukata and the bellflower-patterned yukata from our Asahikawa trips....)

SIGHTS

Kamikochi

On our way to Kamikochi via shinkansen (see on IG).

This trip, we ventured to Kamikochi (上高地) - a mountainous valley resort area in the Hida Mountains (the Northern Japanese Alps) in Nagano.

To Kamikochi via shinkansen, we're making full use of the JR Rail Pass....

Kamikochi is one of Japan's National Cultural Assets, listed as one of Japan's Special Natural Monuments and Special Places of Scenic Beauty. It is part of the Chubu Sangaku National Park (中部山岳国立公園).

The Park can only be accessed by bus or taxi. That is, it is closed to private cars. So, getting out there was not exactly straightforward. Quite a journey consisting of hopping from shinkansen to shinkansen, local train to train, and finally on a coach to the central part of Kamikochi. And lastly, into an ancient taxi to our accommodation.

Mount Yake, Kamikochi

We didn't go for the hike until the following morning. Really nice trails, not too strenuous, but we totally underestimated the UV rays and returned sunburnt.

Yui at Mount Yake, Kamikochi (on IG here and here)

At some point, we took a short breather around a rocky plain next to the Azusagawa, and under Mt Yake (焼岳, Yake-dake). Out came Yui for some photos. It wasn't difficult to prop her up, just kind of leaned her on a rock, but the rocky ground made me worry about her falling flat on her face. And it was fairly hot too. Ohmyohmy will she melt?! Σ(,,꒪꒫꒪,,)

Mt Yake literally means "Burning Mountain", probably so named because it is an active volcano. It has 2 main peaks - a northern peak (which can be climbed) and a southern peak (which is restricted). Its highest peak is 2,455m above sea level.

The Hotaka mountain range and the Azusagawa, Kamikochi

The Hotaka mountain range and the Azusagawa, Kamikochi.

View of the Hotaka mountain range from Taisho-ike, Kamikochi (another on IG).

At various points along the hiking trail, we can also see the Hotaka mountain range (穂高連峰), which is particularly stunning against the Azusagawa.

View of the Hotaka mountain range and the Azusagawa from Kappabashi, Kamikochi (IG).

The peaks of the Hotaka mountain range are Mt Okuhotaka (奥穂高岳), the highest peak in the range and the 3rd highest peak in Japan; Mt Karasawa (涸沢岳); Mt Kitahotaka (北穂高岳); Mt Maehotaka (前穂高岳); Mt Myojin (明神岳); Mt Nishihotaka (西穂高岳); Mt Aino (間ノ岳); and Gamadafuji (蒲田富士).

Kappabashi, Kamikochi

Close to the town centre (if you can even call it a town) is Kappabashi (かっぱ橋), Kamikochi's symbolic suspension bridge crosses the crystal-clear Azusagawa, measuring 36.6m in length and 3.1m wide. It is indeed one of Kamikochi's most scenic spots with the Hotaka mountain range on one side and Mt Yake on the other.

Takezawa Marsh, Kamikochi

Although located in the mountains, Kamikochi itself is a relatively flat mountainous valley. So, it has marshes and ponds such as the Takezawa Marsh, Taisho-ike and Myojin-ike. These are filled by either the Azusagawa, melted snow runoff or underground aquifers and springs.

Myojin-ike, Kamikochi (on IG)

We spent some time enjoying the peaceful stillness of Myojin-ike (明神池, Mirror Pond or Divine Pond), actually a large pond and a smaller pond that are joined by Mt Myojin. The tranquil pond is accessible through the Hotaka Shrine, where we paid an admission fee of JPY300.

Myojin-ike, Kamikochi (another on IG)

Myojin-ike, Kamikochi (another on IG)

It is known as Myojin-ike because of its crystal-clear waters and its mirror-like reflection. The pond is continuously fed with crystal-clear water by an underground stream.

Matsumoto Castle

One of Japan's 12 original surviving castles, Matsumoto Castle (松本城) was built in 1593. It was a branch castle of the Ogasawara clan during the Sengoku Period. Originally a fort called Fukashi Castle, built by Shimadachi Sadanaga of the Ogasawara Clan in 1504, it came under the rule of the Takeda clan in 1550, and subsequently Tokugawa Ieyasu.

Yui at Matsumoto Castle (another on IG)

The 6-storeyed tenshukaku (main keep) is believed to have been built during the time of Ishikawa Norimasa and Ishikawa Yasunaga. It is believed that much of the castle was completed by 1593–94.

They also built various other parts of the castle, including the small tower in the northwest, the Watari Tower, the residence, the drum gate, the Kuromon (black gate), the Moon Viewing Tower (tsukimi yagura), the moat, the innermost bailey, the second bailey, the third bailey, and the sub-floors in the castle. These spots remain as much as they are today.

The main keep (tenshukaku), Matsumoto Castle (IG, another on IG)

During the Edo period, the Tokugawa shogunate established the Matsumoto Domain, of which the Matsudaira, Mizuno, and others were the daimyo. For over 280 years, until the feudal system was abolished in the Meiji Restoration, 23 lords representing 6 different daimyo families rules in Matsumoto Castle. 

The tenshukaku of Matsumoto Castle is the one of the oldest existing castle keeps. Matsumoto Castle is listed as a National Treasure of Japan, and is one of Japan's 3 premier castles.

Deified rice bag, enshrining the goddess Nijuroku-yashin

Hanging from the roof of the 6th floor is a deified bag, where the goddess Nijuroku-yashin is enshrined. Legend has it that on the night of 26 January 1618, a young vassal on duty had a vision of a woman dressed in beautiful clothes. She handing him a brocade bag saying, "If the lord of the castle enshrines me with 600kg of rice on the 26th night of every month, I will protect the castle from fire and enemy." It is believed or rumoured that because the bag was deified, the castle is preserved and has survived to be the oldest castle in its original form.

Matsumoto Castle's Moon Viewing Tower

The Moon Viewing Tower (月見櫓, tsukimi yagura) was built in the early Edo period, during a peaceful time. This shows in the difference between the structure of the Tower and the tenshukaku. The Tower is open in 3 directions (north, east and south), and the building structure has only pillars and thin sliding doors with mairado (horizontal crosspieces). Vermilion-lacquered hand-rails (はねこうらん, hane konran) ring the outside of the tower.

Himeji Castle

Himeji Castle (another on IG)

Himeji Castle (姫路城) finally re-opened in March this year after years of extensive restoration work. Unlike Matsumoto Castle (a flatland castle fort), Himeji Castle is a hilltop castle fort.

Himeji Castle

With its brilliant white and elegant facade, Himeji Castle is also known as Hakuro-jo or Shirasagi-jo (白鷺城, "White Egret Castle") because it resembles a white bird taking flight. From afar, it looks coolly beautiful and graceful, but it doesn't prepare you for the uphill approach. The approach to the castle's tenshukaku from Hishi Gate is labyrinth-like. The walled paths and multiple gates and baileys were designed with the purpose to slow down and expose attackers.

Did I mention that it's quite a hike uphill to the castle? I can't begin to imagine what it was like for samurai to attempt an attack on a hilltop castle... The thought of hiking it all the way up, while fighting or dodging attacks in that armour and gear.... *Swoooooooon*

The approach to Himeji Castle (on IG)

After being rebuilt and expanded by various ruling clans over the centuries, the Himeji Castle complex today comprises over 80 buildings spread across multiple baileys connected by a series of gates and winding paths.

In 1333, a fort was built by Akamatsu Norimura (a samurai of the Akamatsu clan in the Muromachi period, and shugo of the Harima Province) on Himeyama Hill. This fort was later demolished by his son Akamatsu Sadonori in 1346 who built Himeyama Castle on the site.

The elegant curved rooftops of Himeji Castle (IG)

Subsequently in 1545, the daimyo of the Kuroda clan, Kuroda Shigetaka rebuilt the castle into today's Himeji Castle. His descendent, Kuroda Yoshitaka, presented the castle to Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1580. In the following year, Toyotomi Hideyoshi remodeled the castle by building a 3-storey keep.

In 1600, after the Battle of Sekigahara, the castle was granted to Ikeda Terumasa by his father-in-law (Tokugawa Ieyasu). From 1601 to 1609, Ikeda completely rebuilt the castle and expanded it. Further buildings were added to the castle in 1617 when it was inherited by daimyo Honda Tadamasa, the father-in-law of Senhime (the granddaughter of Tokugawa Ieyasu).

A model of Himeji Castle's internal structure (IG).

At the heart of the complex stands the 6-storey daitenshu (main keep). Explored every level, which are fairly unadorned and simple, with various defensive structures and architectural features like portholes, rock chutes and concealed spaces.

Shrine at the 6th level of Himeji Castle's daitenshu (main keep)

At the topmost level, there is a small shrine, an all-around view of the castle's maze-like defences and Himeji City. It's also a good place to sit down and rest, with the breeze.

Himeji Castle, from the sangoku-bori or "three country moat" (IG)

Like Matsumoto Castle, Himeji Castle is one of Japan's 12 original surviving castles, listed as a National Treasure, and one of Japan's 3 premier castles. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Yui likes the elegance of Himeji Castle (IG)

It's pretty amazing that Himeji Castle has survived intact for over 400 years, through extensive bombing during WWII and the 1995 Great Hanshin Earthquake (aka the Kobe Earthquake).

Gion Matsuri

Gion Matsuri this year took place under pouring rain, courtesy of Typhoon Nangka

Yamaboko Junko, Gion Matsuri, Kyoto (IG)

We made it to Kyoto in time of the start of the Gion Matsuri (祇園祭), which takes place over all of July.

Historically, the festival was part of a purification ritual to appease the gods responsible for natural disasters and epidemics. Aspects of its religious origins are still retained, but these days it looks more like a historical/cultural event focused on tourists (local and foreign).

The festival's main event is the Yamaboko Junko (山鉾巡行), a parade of floats. These floats are massive wooden structures of up to 25m tall on wheels with diameters as high as an adult, and weighing as much as 12 tons.

This year's Yamaboko Junko was not cancelled despite the forecast of steady rain from Typhoon Nangka. But the entire atmosphere was marred by the steady heavy rain and overcast skies. Due to the heavy rain, there were no food stands or game stands, and the float procession was also delayed for over 30 minutes.

Typhoon Nangka, why did you have to rain on our parade? (IG)

The event lacked that festive atmosphere too. There was only a comparatively small number of people lining the streets to view the procession. Much of the seating area was empty, and many people gave up and left before the first float even made it past them.

Boy, I felt so bad for the participants...having to pull along those huge, heavy wooden floats under that pouring rain has got to be such a drag.... Kudos to all of them for the effort and spirit despite the weather conditions!

TREASURE HUNTING

Toys and Collectibles

Went Blythe doll hunting at Lele Junie Moon and Junie Moon at Daikanyama - didn't buy any dolls, but bought this season's Junie Moon yukata.

Dominator from Psycho-Pass (IG)

Checked out the new toys on display at Tamashii Nations Akiba Showroom: the Dominator from Psycho Pass and Metalbuild Gundam Astray Gold Frame Amatsu Mina. Noticed an upcoming transformable Rody x Hatsune Miku which I think Caramelaw will like!

And of course we checked out the awesome spanking new Radio Kaikan! Popped into Yellow Submarine, and Azone to check out the dolls.

No toy shopping trip is complete without Nakano Broadway. Didn't find many toys that interested us, and the Blythe collection was sparse this time around. We ended up buying teleka instead - a revival of Hubby's old habit. And Hubby put in a bid for a Cardcaptor Sakura animation cel, which he won.

Now we really must get our 2 cels framed!

Bought a bunch of miniature musical instruments for my girls. Together with the other doll items I bought from Azone and the mokeke plushieis from one of the shops in Radio Kaikan, I think this trip's toy-hunting is quite satisfactory.

Fabric

Found some pretty, summer-themese tenugui and cotton handkerchiefs at Haneda Airport that would be perfect for my Blythe yukata projects.

By the way, Itoya is a popular stationery store in Japan with a fantastic and huge branch in Ginza. I have not been to the Ginza store, but from this Matcha article and this post by Alex Webb, it looks absolutely yummy - and sounds like the perfect place to shop for Japanese stationery and Japanese paper.

In Ginza, I went in search of this shop I passed in my previous trip. Thought it was a fabric shop but it turned out to be a traditional kimono/yukata shop! Still managed to find some nice tenugui and chirimen furoshiki for my kimono/yukata projects.

In Matsumoto city, I found some tenugui with cute summer motifs at a homeware shop along the way to Matsumoto train station. Another bunch of cute stuff for Blythe yukata projects!

We came across a craft store called Handicraft Dream while strolling around Kyoto. It seems I'm not good at 'just browsing' in craft stores. This is turning out to be a fabric shopping trip for my Blythes instead... Well, except the hunk of blue Kokka nani IRO fabric, Fuccra : rakuen double gauze, which is for myself. (Fast forward another year: This was the beginning of my love affair with nani IRO fabric designed by Japanese textile designer Ito Naomi (伊藤 尚美)..... I made it into a gathered pullover and an A-line dress, and 5 years later, still regret not buying more of this print!)

Also went fabric shopping at Odakaya and Yuzuwaya in Shinjuku. Bought a bunch of fat-quarters, all pretty cotton florals for cute/sweet Blythe dresses, and a whole bunch of Japanese chirimen and cottons, and satin brocade for my Blythe yukata and kimono projects. I would later dig up more fabric shops in Tokyo - the other awesome branches of Yuzuwaya, and Nippori Textile Town (especially Tomato).

FOOD

Ramen

On the food front, we focused a lot on checking out ramen recommendations. We already have some firm favourites - Keisuke Yondaime's lobster ramen (Bunkyo) and Fuunji's tsukemen (Shinjuku), and Ikkousha in Kyoto.

This trip, we went to Kagari (篝) in Ginza (twice), Tsuta (蔦) in Sugamo (IG), Ivan Ramen (アイヴン ラーメン) in Setagaya (IG), Kikanbou (鬼金棒) in Kanda (IG), Saikoro (さいころ) in Nakano (IG). The last ramen place I can't remember the name of - only that it had moved and we tramped in the summer heat for over 1 hour looking for it. More on them in another post, with pictures.

Tori paitan at Ginza Kagari (twice! here, here!) 

After this trip, we added Kagari, Tsuta, and possibly Ivan's to our list of favourites. Ivan's is a little far to get to though. But hands-down, the no. 1 favourite of both Hubby and me is Kagari, the hole-in-the-wall ramen shop in Ginza's back streets. I will queue again for the tori paitan soba (鶏白湯そば). ("Soba" on the shop's menu, but it's actually ramen noodles.)

Japanese beef

Beef is the reason I can't go vegetarian. And Japanese beef is the topmost of the sub-categories of that reason.

Naturally, when it comes to Japanese beef, one can't miss out on Matsusaka beef (松阪牛) and Kobe beef (神戸牛), 2 of Japan's 三大和牛 (Sandai Wagyu, literally, Three Great Japanese Beefs). Both come from the pure-bred Tajima cattle (但馬牛), a strain of the Japanese Black (黒毛和種, Kuroge Washu). Matsusaka beef comes from Tajima heifers raised in the Matsusaka region in Mie Prefecture. Kobe beef is from Tajima steers from the Hyogo Prefecture.
 

Matsusaka beef, Mishima-Tei, Kyoto.

In the Kyoto leg of this trip, we had Kansai-style sukiyaki at Mishima-Tei (三嶋亭), a much venerated traditional sukiyaki-ya in Kyoto, known for its Matsusaka beef. It is located at the corner of Sanjo and Teramachi, and runs its own butchery. Our first taste of Matsusaka beef had been a restaurant in Ginza, during our late December 2012 trip.

During this trip, we also had dinner at Yakiniku Bar Heijouen (焼肉バル平城苑) in Ginza. A few years ago, when we first visited Tokyo, Hubby and I randomly had dinner at here. Bar Heijouen has a great selection of beef - naturally, they also serve various grades of wagyu. And at pretty decent prices too. (I meant that relatively.) It's now a firm favourite and we have returned a few times, including the winter 2013 trip with Shion and our friends.

Negishi special set menu: grilled beef tongue, barley rice, and tororo.

While at Shibuya, we randomly chose a place for dinner - Negishi (ねぎし), a popular gyu-tan restaurant chain that we chanced upon. (We had no idea about it at the time.) Negishi serves a special set menu consisting of grilled beef tongue (gyu-tan), grated yam (tororo) and barley rice (mugi-meshi). We ate everything up except the tororo - really can't get past the gloopy texture....

Would love to revisit to try their donabe stew and hamburger steak brown sauce stew.

Teppanyaki beef steak at Steakhouse Satou, Tokyo

During this trip, we managed to have lunch at Steakhouse Satou (ステーキハウス サトウ), a teppanyaki steakhouse in Kichioji known for its reasonably priced Matsusaka beef. In our previous trips, we failed to eat there. First because it was closed, being Shogatsu; the other times, the queue was too long. We queued for a weekday lunch this time, and waited a while, but not too long.

Beef steak at Gyu-an, Tokyo (IG)

Another beef restaurant we love is Gyu-an (牛庵). Gyu-an (牛庵) is one of the more reasonably priced Kobe beef restaurants in Tokyo. We had the steak and the sukiyaki on 2 separate occasions there. The food is good, the service too, and they are comfortable with English-speaking guests and foreign visitors. Would highly recommend it any time.

Yoshoku

I love yoshoku (洋食), that is "Western food". Although in Japanese cuisine, yoshoku typically refers to Japanised forms of European dishes that originated in the Meiji Restoration period. Examples of yoshoku include korokke (croquette), tonkatsu (pork cutlet), spaghetti with various sauces, notably Naporitan, omurice, hamburger steak.

Beef fried rice at Port-side Kitchen, Haneda Airport

On our 1st and last day in Tokyo, we ate at Port-side Kitchen at Haneda Airport, which is a pretty decent yoshoku restaurant chain. First day, I had the beef fried rice and last day I had the beef stragonoff rice - both were pretty good.

Beef stragonoff rice at Port-side Kitchen, Haneda Airport

Actually, the overall food standard in Tokyo is just good. (Make that the overall food standard in Japan.)

Beef Stew, Cafe Parsley, Kyoto

While stranded in a shopping mall in Kyoto during Typhoon Nangka, we had lunch at this yoshoku place called Cafe Parsley. I had the beef stew - not the best beef stew I've ever had in Japan, but nothing beats something hot and bubbly and thick on a cold, rainy day!

Food in Kamikochi

During our stay at Kamikochi (上高地), both our breakfasts and dinners were at our hotel, the Kamikochi Alpine Hotel.

Dinner at the Kamikochi Alpine Hotel

Dinner at the Kamikochi Alpine Hotel

Those meals consisted of a series of dishes, some featuring local specialties (local tsukemono) and handmade tofu.

The ingredients used were mainly local to the region. Besides the hotel's handmade tofu, other seasonal specialties, the dishes included summer vegetables and beef from the region. The meal was tops in terms of freshness of the ingredients. In terms of preparation, the dishes were quite simple and, even, rustic.

 

Main courses for both days included local Hida wagyu beef shabu shabu (above left) (IG), and hot stone Hida wagyu beef (IG).

My favourite would be the beef shabu shabu which was heaped with fresh mizuna and leek, mushrooms and handmade tofu. The hot stone wagyu beef was delicious, and served with eringi, onion and broccoli. The other highlight was the stewed pumpkin (also with tofu), the tofu with the eggplant and stuffed green pimento.

Breakfast at the hotel also featured handmade tofu and an assortment of local tsukemono. For the tofu, both times it was served in a simmering broth, accompanied by fresh ginger, mizuna greens and shimeiji mushrooms.

Hubby frowned throughout because he loathes tofu. But I love it. There was tofu in almost every dish. Breakfast was hell for Hubby because of the tofu, and he doesn't care for mizuna, mushrooms, and pickled vegetables. HAHAHAHAHAHAHA! (I get double portions!!!)

The day we were out hiking, we had one lunch at the Kamikochi central area. I had a soba with wild mountain greens (山菜, sansai) which included heaps of warabi sprouts and mushrooms. We also tried the local specialty: salt-grilled local river trout (IG). It was also served by the hotel for dinner on our 2nd night. I wasn't a big fan, but Hubby loved it.

Slightly more challenging food escapades

While in Matsumoto, we decided to be daring and try 2 of their regional specialties for lunch.

Basashi (horse meat sashimi) at Matsumoto (IG)

Those 2 regional specialties were basashi (馬刺し), i.e. horse meat sashimi, and sanzoku-yaki (山賊焼き), a type of deep-fried marinated chicken.

Sanzoku-yaki, awesomely delicious deep fried chicken with an awesome name, at Matsumoto (IG)

The basashi was an interesting experience that I'm not in a hurry to repeat, but the sanzoku-yaki was awesomely delicious - one of the best deep-fried chicken I've ever had. "Sanzoku" literally means "bandit", so sanzoku-yaki is like "bandit fried"... So, do we call this Bandit Fried Chicken???

Another day, we met up with Hubby's former MCL classmate Kotaro-san at a yakitori place in Iidabashi (or Kagurazaka) called Bun-chan (文ちゃん). We all had the 10-skewer osusume course. In hindsight, that was a mistake for me because I generally don't care for innards and offal, or any kind of cartilage.

Yakitori dinner with a friend at Bun-chan. This was the tamahimo which is a bit...too much for me to swallow (on IG).

I gamely ate everything including the heart, gizzard, liver and cartilage, but I just could not stomach the tamahimo (玉ひも). The tamahimo is the chicken's ovaries, with immature eggs, and the oviduct. I know it's a delicacy in many Asian cultures (not only Japanese) and it's considered to be very "bu" (herbal/medicinal), but I just can't get past the appearance and the concept.

Other random food escapades

In Kyoto, we stayed at a new boutique hotel called Sakura Terrace. It was a comfortable room, but I didn't like the hotel's concept very much. I think it's too much of a hipster party hotel - the hotel was open concept, and the building encircled an open-air central courtyard, which led to the bar restaurant, and a live band playing in the courtyard.The room's soundproofing wasn't sufficient to keep the noise out.

Tuna sashimi done three ways, with real, fresh wasabi, for JPY800 at Sakura Terrace Hotel (IG)

As it was new, there were clearly some teething problems. But the restaurant downstairs had some decent food. (All rather hipster trendy, but still decent.) The cold corn soup was rather good. The three ways tuna sashimi came with real, fresh wasabi that the waitstaff grates for you on the spot. (Not with a sharkskin oroshiki though.)

I felt adventurous and ordered the miso-preserved cream cheese - which was downright weird.

Grilled homard lobster at Sakura Terrace, Kyoto

The restaurant also had some great promotional deals - grilled homard lobster with champagne sauce, and Japanese 'wagyu' aitchbone steak for JPY1,000 each is a little hard to believe.

Aitchbone steak at Sakura Terrace, Kyoto

So the aitchbone 'wagyu' steak... From the first bite, it was somewhat tough and fairly clear it's not top-grade A5 wagyu. But hey, it's JPY1,000. I think they were able to price it fairly cheaply because aitchbone is not a popular cut, and is generally not used for steak.

Aitchbone is a fairly lesser known cut. Apparently, it is a historic British cut, enjoyed during the Victorian times or earlier, and since fallen out of common use. The cut is from the cattle's hip joint, and is a mix of lean and fatty meat. As it is from the rump area, the cut is less tender than traditional steak cuts (tenderloin, sirloin, etc), and is thus best cooked slowly, like in a stew, pot roast or a slow roast.

So, on the fated day when I had the above-mentioned yakitori dinner at Iidabashi, we later met up with friends and went for kaiten sushi (回転寿司) and a beer. The average standards of kaiten sushi in Japan definitely beats those at home.

Convenience store cheese croquette

We were invited to dinner by a former CLS classmate, Masako, who prepared a very luxurious donburi for us - other than salmon and sweet prawns, she heaped the ricebowl with otoro and uni!

She had also prepared other courses, including some vinegared seaweed dish, and various others. In the meantime, her husband broke out the sake and beer. I was really touched by their effort and hospitality.

Like any enjoyable dinner party, we spoke deep into the night about a variety of topics - some were rather serious, as I mentioned about passing some demonstrations which were against the expansion of American military bases in Japan.

Masako-san's donburi

We also discussed the recent debate about changing Japan's constitution to enable it to expand its military beyond what is currently permitted. (These have been heated topics in Japan for many years, and are intricately tied with the many post-war issues in Japanese politics and history.)

Okay, so just to round off this section with this last remark - you know the amazing thing about Japan? Even the convenience store snacks are delicious! 

What does that tell you about the city's average food standard.

Crave a late night snack? Okay, we did. We walked to the nearest Family Mart and got ourselves a Nissin cup noodles and croquette  each. Perfect midnight snack. 

It was yummy - and I'm not saying this because we had hunger pangs.

Sweets

Summer in Japan in July and August can be unbearably hot. During our trip, temperatures went up to as high as 37 deg C at some point. So cold desserts definitely rated highly during this trip.

Thoroughly enjoyed the grape and white wine verrine I ordered when we met up with Hubby's former CLS classmates over tea at La Fiorentina, Grand Hyatt at Roppongi. (The strawberry shortcake and mille-feuille there were also delicious.) 

Strawberry kakigori, Takashimaya Shinjuku

And I loved the cold zenzai at Mihashi, Tokyo Station. Served in a frosted glass bowl - another seasonal touch in Japan.

In-between shopping trips and travelling across Tokyo, we cooled down with many a kakigori. 

Kakigori is a classic Japanese summer dessert of shaved ice, sweetened with fruit syrup. These days, shops also add cut fruit, fruit compote or other toppings, such as jelly or mochi. (Our Singaporean equivalent would be ice kachang.) Traditionally, the ice is hand-shaven.

Hubby and I strongly remember the strawberry kakigori at a cafe at Takashimaya Shinjuku - the syrup was made with poached strawberries.

I've since looked up other recommended kakigori places, and plan to visit!

There is also something about Japanese pastries. I am inclined to think that the Japanese do French dessert pastries very well, and somehow with a delicate touch.

We randomly hopped into a cafe called La Maison Ensoleille Table. Hubby had a delicious chocolate tart, and I wolfed down a deliciously juicy white peach tart. Crispy crumbly tart shell, smooth custard, cream as light as a feather, the white peached lightly poached but still with a cool, refreshing juiciness.

And then there was the banana-and-chocolate tart and the grape tart at another cafe in the JR Tokyo Station. Unfortunately I can't remember the name of the cafe. But I would definitely like to return there again.

TOLO Coffee & Bakery, also Shirohige Cream Puff Bakery in Setagaya-daita, THE place for the Totoro cream puffs!

For all Studio Ghibli fans: Shirohige's Totoro cream puffs at TOLO Coffee & Bakery, Setagaya (IG).

Takashimaya Food Basement

We also made the trip all the way out to Setagaya-daita (世田谷代田) just so I can eat the signature Totoro cream puffs (トトロのシュークリーム) at Tolo Coffee and Bakery (トロコーヒー). These very edible Totoros are filled with a choice of custard and cream, chocolate, peach or matcha cream.

It's not just cafes and restaurants in Japan that serve up great desserts. The food basements of all Japanese department stores have gems selling all kinds of delicious sweets, both Western and traditional Japanese. This trip, we found a shop at the Takashimaya Shinjuku food basement selling a flaky pastry biscuit called "leaf pie".

The sweets we've eaten in this entire trip hasn't all been Western. Traditional Japanese sweets, wagashi (和菓子), are also part of our dessert diet - though I love it more than Hubby does.

Grabbing traditional sweets at a wagashi-ya at Nagano Station (IG)

On the train from Nagano to Kamikochi, Hubby and I eat the mitarashi dango (みたらし団子) and yomogi dango (よもぎ団子) that we bought at a wagashi shop at Nagano Station.

Wagashi, yummy! Some of the best sakura dango I've eaten (IG).

I tried the shop's signature yomogi sakura mochi - it was delicious; the perfect balance of sweet and salty! I regret not buying more. The yomogi (mugwort) was mixed in with the mochi, the mochi was slightly savoury, and the anko filling was slightly sweet, and there was a slight bitterness and saltiness from the salt-pickled sakura leaf wrapper. (On the debate of whether to eat the leaf or not, I ate this one.)

Wagashi from Matsumoto City

While wandering around Matsumoto city, after our tour of Matsumoto Castle, we also randomly walked into a very old, traditional-looking wagashi shop and bought a whole bunch of wagashi. One of which was a wafer biscuit topped with caramelised nuts. Uber yummy based on the samples. We originally bought the box of 5 for ourselves, but they ended up as house-gifts to Mark's CLS classmate Masako and her husband.