Golden Week 2016 #2/3 - Sakura in Sapporo

Yui at Moerenuma Park, Sappro.

We actually mostly winged our sakura chase. Following a few days in Osaka and Kyoto, we decided to continue our sakura chase to Sapporo, so we took a budget flight up to Sapporo. The sakura in Hakodate had been so beautiful that we just wanted to see more.

A quick Google search indicated that the best known sakura-viewing spots in Sapporo are Odori Park, Maruyama Park, Moerenuma Park, Makomanai Park, Nakajima Park. As we only had a day to spend in Sapporo, we narrowed it down to Moerenuma Park (below), Makomanai Park (below) and Maruyama Park (below). And we spent almost a fortune cabbing from one park to the next. (Admission to these 3 parks were free!) I must also mention that all the cabbies appeared surprised when they heard the destinations. Perhaps they don't think foreign tourists could possibly wish to visit Sapporo just to go to parks? Though I did learn that these parks are more popular with locals.

Moerenuma Park

Moerenuma Park, Sapporo

First stop was Moerenuma Park (モエレ沼公園). Designed by Japanese-American sculptor and landscape architect Isamu Noguchi (1904-1988), Moerenuma Park was his last design project prior to his death. The park was converted from a waste treatment plant in Sapporo and was officially opened around 2004/2005.

Inside the glass pyramid 'Hidamari' at Moerenuma Park, Sapporo (IG).

According to the park's website, Isamu Noguchi based the park's basic design on the concept of "the whole being a single sculpture". The hills, fountain and park facilities form orderly geometric shapes and integrate these geometric man-made forms with nature.

Yui, Moerenuma Park, Sapporo.

Before entering the park proper, Yui and I stop to take a few pictures on the grassy, dandelion-studded slope just outside the entrance. Honestly, we just get distracted whenever we see lots and lots of flowers.

Sakura in bloom, Moerenuma Park, Sapporo (IG)

Apparently, the sakura at Moerenuma Park bloom a little later than the other sakura trees in Sapporo. And we came at the right time. Whatever kind of sakura species the trees were, the dense grove of sakura trees were beautiful.

Sakura, Moerenuma Park, Sappro

The effect is not cloud-like like when an entire grove of Somei Yoshino in bloom, as these sakura here emerge at the same time as the leaves, and are a darker pink in colour. I thought maybe most of the sakura trees here are yamazakura (mountain cherry) but I am not certain. The yamazakura blossoms at the same time as the young leaves emerge, and the young leaves have a bronze/coppery colour. But these blossoms weren't really a light pink, but darker, so I could be wrong.

Sakura, Moerenuma Park, Sapporo (IG)

I think there are other cherry varieties Moerenuma Park, but unfortunately my untrained eye is unable to discern the differences at the moment. So far, I am only able to distinguish the Somei Yoshino, and the more obvious ones like the kanzan cherry, from the other cherry varieties.

Sakura, Moerenuma Park, Sapporo

Although it doesn't have the cloud-like effect of the Somei Yoshino, these sakura have their own beauty.

Pretty and pink are these sakura at Moerenuma Park, Sapporo.

Sakura in bloom, Moerenuma Park, Sapporo (IG)

I can't resist taking tons and tons of close-ups of the beautiful blossoms. It's too bad the sky was overcast.

「さまざまの事おもひ出す櫻かな」芭蕉 | Samazama no koto omoidasu sakura kana (Basho)
Moerenuma Park, Sapporo (IG)

Honestly, I think Moerenuma Park is a lovely and spacious park, with many impressive man-made features and walking paths. It's obviously a favourite among locals, especially families. While we were there, a large number of the people visiting the park were picnicking, strolling (couples, or people with their kids or pets), people playing frisbee, jogging, cycling...you name it. Apparently, there is also an artificial beach/bathing area called Moere Beach that is open during the summer season.

Play Mountain, Moerenuma Park, Sapporo.

Makomanai Park

Sakura, Makomanai Park, Sapporo

Next stop was Makomanai Park (真駒内公園), a sprawling 82-hectare park in Sapporo that was the main venue for the 1972 Winter Olympics.

On the park's grounds are the Makomanai Sekisui Heim Stadium and the Makomanai Sekisui Heim Ice Arena.

During the 1972 Winter Olympics, the stadium hosted the Opening Ceremony and the speed-skating events, and the Ice Arena hosted the Closing Ceremony, the figure skating events and some of the ice hockey events.

The facilities continue to be used by the residents of Sapporo, as does the surrounding parkland. The walking trails around the park are popular with joggers and runners, and there is a 3km circular course that is popular with cross country skiers during the winter.

Makomanai Park has around 50,000 natural trees, one of which is supposedly 135 years old. There are also walking trails all over the park (some 10km!).

Through the park runs the Toyohira and Makomanai Rivers, and at the northwestern end of the park is the Sapporo Salmon Museum. The museum discusses the river salmon's life cycle and history, and its significance in the region. River life in the Toyohira and Makomanai Rivers can be observed from the observatory.

Sakura grove, Makomanai Park, Sapporo (IG)

Sakura, Makomanai Park, Sapporo

The sakura trees are scattered around the park, so we did some walking around... Unfortunately, I can't find the website(s) where we found info on where the best clusters were.

However, strolling around Makomanai Park, I spot so many other things that show that spring is here. In spite of the national obsession and single-minded focus the Japanese have on sakura in the spring season, there are constant reminders everywhere that sakura are not the only spring blooms in Japan.

Beautifully golden forsythia in full bloom, Makomanai Park, Sapporo (IG).

Spring also brings about many other plants. The Sapporo roadsides, backyards and parks are also dotted with brilliant gold-yellow shrubs of forsythia (rengyo, 連翹) in full bloom.

Spring, a time of shinryoku, Makomanai Park, Sapporo (IG).

Everywhere, the trees and shrubs are bursting with bright, tender green, which the Japanese refer to as "shinryoku" (新緑), a spring-time sight that is also celebrated in Japan. Also one of my favourite colours. It brings to mind a passage from Under the Tuscan Sun Bella Tuscany by Frances Mayes:

"Happiness? The color of it must be spring green, impossible to describe until I see a just-hatched lizard sunning on a stone. That color, the glowing green lizard skin, repeats in every new leaf. The regenerative power of nature explodes in every weed, stalk, branch. Working in the mild sun, I feel the green fuse of my body, too. Surges of energy, kaleidoscopic sunlight through the leaves, the soft breeze that makes me want to say the word "zephyr" - this mindless simplicity can be called happiness."

This is also the season for sansai (山菜). Scattered among the grass are lots of brown fertile stems of the common horsetail. They were growing all over the place, by the roads and pathways around Makomanai Park. The plant itself is called sugina (杉菜) in Japan, while the fertile buds and stems are called tsukushi (土筆). These fertile buds are a type of sansai and are eaten as a seasonal vegetable in Japan. (More recent articles on Cultivated Days, La Petit Noisette, Shun Gate, to list a few.)

Field horsetails were growing all over the place at Makomanai Park, Sapporo.

Maruyama Park

We didn't stay very long at Maruyama Park. And unfortunately, most of the trees were already past peak at the time of our visit. We did catch some late-bloomers that were still in full bloom glory, however, and they were also lovely.

Some late-blooming sakura in full bloom at Sapporo Maruyama Park.

The hanami parties were still in full swing though - lots of young people singing, drinking, and partying. I can see why some of the elderly in Japan complain about how hanami affairs have become more about noisy merry-making rather than meditative enjoyment.

Sakura in full bloom, Sapporo Maruyama Park (IG).

There were more spring flowers in Sapporo's Maruyama Park (円山公園). Dainty daisies and dandelions scattered on the grass, poppies, pansies and tulips in the flower beds...

Tulips at Sapporo Maruyama Park.

Someone's daisy crown, Sapporo Maruyama Park.

At the end of the day, we were a little sad. It's too bad our sakura-chasing trip is at an end. But all things come to an end, like the beautiful blooms. As the Japanese saying goes: ichi-go ichi-e (一期一会). Therefore, one must cherish such memorable moments of life.

I am reminded of a quote by Martha Beck: "True happiness is sustained delight in the beautiful moments of ordinary life". So here we were, watching the beautiful ethereal blossoms on a cold spring day, knowing that in a few minutes we would have to leave to catch our flight back to Tokyo and then back to our ordinary lives.

Golden Week 2016

- Golden Week 2016 I: Sakura in Hakodate
- Golden Week 2016 II: Sakura in Sapporo
- Golden Week 2016 III: Kyoto, Uji, Osaka

(This post was edited and updated on 26 April 2022.)