Golden Week 2016 #3/3 - Kyoto, Uji, Osaka

In-between our sakura-chasing trips in Hakodate and in Sapporo, Hubby and I spent a few two days in Kyoto (below), Uji (below) and Osaka (below).

Being Golden Week, accommodation in Kyoto sky-rocketed, but prices in Osaka remained relatively reasonable. Since we already bought the JR Rail Pass for the shinkansen trip to Hakodate, we stayed near the Shin-Osaka station, and shuttled to and from Kyoto by way of shinkansen for this leg of the trip. (It calculated out to be cheaper this way, compared to staying in Kyoto.)

Kyoto

Admittedly, we didn't do much in Kyoto on this trip. We both ended up sleeping a lot, thanks to our sleep deprivation (a perpetual occupational hazard). It pains me to say that we had a portable wi-fi dongle for obvious reasons - of which Instagram is only a small part.

Yui Jamie at Fushimi Inari Taisha, Kyoto.

We re-visited Fushimi Inari Taisha, an all-time favourite of ours since our first visit around 5 years ago. It's also a popular favourite among Japanese and foreign visitors, so it's constantly crowded. Loads of people were at the senbon torii, but the crowd thinned out a little after we passed the famous stretch. Needless to say, Fushimi Inari has been referenced in many popular culture references. I'm thinking here of the 2014 anime Inari, Konkon, Koi Iroha which totally revolves around Fushimi Inari Taisha, the surrounding district, and Inari Okami. I mean, the main protagonist is named Fushimi Inari, and she lives so close by that she passes the shrine grounds everyday on her way to and from school!

This trip, we spent a bit more time exploring the sub-shrines that branched from the main path.

Took a break at the sub-shrine with the display of ceramic kitsune figurines (which I had also seen in winter 2013). At the small omamori shop there, Hubby and I each got a little porcelain kitsune omikuji - ceramic white fox figurines with a sheaf of rice painted on one side, with the omikuji inside.

Omikuji (御御籤/御神籤/おみくじ) are strips of paper on which fortunes have been written or printed on. Usually, one makes a small offering and shakes a wooden box out of which a lot falls out. That lot corresponds with the paper strip. Alternatively, one makes an offering and picks it randomly from a box.

We sat at a bench nearby and opened ours. Mine said "大吉", which means great blessings or excellent fortune. Wonderful! Neither of us had to tie the paper strip to a pine tree.

Nomura Tailor, Shijo, Kyoto

Back in town, I went a little mad with the fabric shopping at Nomura Tailor. Bought up a lot of fabric (satin brocade included) for my Blythe kimono projects. Also dug through the scrap bin and found two decent lengths of dupioni, in sky blue and royal blue.

My fabric loot from Nomura Tailor, Shijo, Kyoto

Also saw bolts of nani IRO 2016 fabrics and bought around 4m of the 'Wild Elegant Wind' in wave green. The plan is to make a casual dress or some other clothes for myself. Wind-blown green grass is one of my favourite motifs, and the design reminds me of shibakusa, a traditional Japanese motif of bending arches of lawn grass, generally associated with summer in Japan.

In hindsight, I wish I bought at least 1m each of the other nani IRO prints too.

Burnt Miso Ramen, Gogyo, Kyoto | 焦がし味噌ラーメン, 五行, 京都

Hubby was determined to have the signature burnt miso ramen (焦がし味噌ラーメン; kogashi miso ramen) at Gogyo. We waited more quite some time in the queue, but burnt miso ramen is not a dish available everywhere.

So apparently the miso is cooked in 300 deg C lard. The bowl in a cloud of smoky (hello, burnt!) aroma. The usual ramen trappings and lots of fresh cabbage arranged on top of an almost black broth, with a layer of char-speckled oil floating on top.

The broth is heavy and rich - burnt miso has unique flavour; it definitely has an oomph. I'm not sure I'm mad about it, but I don't dislike it.... Hubby loves it.

We both did end up with a slightly scratchy throat the next day. Not surprising. That is one bowl of heaty stuff!

Uji

The Phoenix Hall of Byodo-in, Uji | 平等院の鳳凰堂, 宇治

After Fushimi Inari Taisha, we took the train to Uji - mainly to re-visit the Phoenix Hall (鳳凰堂) at Byodo-in (平等院), which we missed in our winter 2013 trip to Uji. Conservation of the Phoenix Hall was completed some time last year.

The temple is an example of Buddhist Pure Land (Jodo) architecture - the temple and the surrounding garden are supposed to represent Pure Land Paradise. The Phoenix Hall came to be known by this name because the Hall's shape and the two gold phoenix statues on the roof.

The Pheonix Hall is the epitome of Fujiwara Amida halls; its cultural and historical significance is recognised by its depiction on the ¥10 coin and ¥10,000 note and its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Hall is also long-lived, considering that the remaining buildings of the Byodo-in complex were burnt down in 1336.

The Phoenix Hall of Byodo-in, Uji | 平等院の鳳凰堂, 宇治

Save for a brief mention, I'm not going to re-hash the information I previously posted on its history and cultural significance in Japan. Byodo-in was initially built as a villa for Minamoto no Shigenobu, and subsequently acquired by Fujiwara no Michinaga. (Japan-Guide says it was built for Michinaga.) In 1052, Byodo-in was founded as a Buddhist temple by Michinaga's son, Fujiwara no Yorimichi, who also ordered the construction of the Pheonix Hall. These men were not only from two of the four noble clans (Gempeitōkitsu) that dominated Japanese politics during the Heian era, they were also powerful and influential courtiers in that era.

The Phoenix Hall of Byodo-in, Uji | 平等院の鳳凰堂, 宇治

Interestingly, the buildings of Byodo-in, except the Phoenix Hall, have been repeatedly destroyed over the centuries. As a consequence, the Phoenix Hall is one of the few wooden buildings of the Heian era that have survived in its original form.

Osaka

Though we stayed in Osaka, we only spent a day there. (Our focus being Kyoto.) And we did mainly three things: eat, Osaka Aquarium and Mandarake. 

Okay, no we did not go on an okonomiyaki and takoyaki binge. Instead we binged on crab for lunch and yakiniku for dinner. Apparently, eating at Kani Doraku (かに道楽) is a must when visiting Osaka, not just because of its catchy, larger-than-life plastic crab with waving legs at its front entrance.... According to Hubby's food research, Kani Doraku is also quite well-rated and popular for its crab cuisine. Well, it's crab, crab, crab and all crab, and we love crab. So Kani Doraku it is. 

Kani Doraku Amimoto Bekkan, Osaka

Kani Doraku is one of the best crab chain restaurants in Japan. Didn't manage to get a booking at the Dotomburi main branch (the most popular branch), but we managed to get one at the Amimoto Annex (Amimoto Bekkan).

Tofu in crab broth (left) and crab sashimi (right), Kani Doraku

First course was cold tofu with beans in a thick crab meat broth. Super yum. Next was crab sashimi - I've not had crab sashimi style before, and felt a little queasy. I admit I like the sweetness, but not the texture.

Oh, I forgot to photograph the crab chawanmushi - it was easily one of the best I've had. (Actually, every chawanmushi I've had in Japan rocks my world - great, super-smooth texture every time.)

Boiled crab (left) and deep fried crab (right), Kani Doraku

The next 2 courses were boiled crab and deep fried crab. Both were really good, especially with a squeeze of the lemon on the tempura crab, but boiled brought out the sweetness better.

Grilled crab

Crab for shabu shabu.

We literally had crab prepared in all different cooking styles. I have no complaints over grilled crab - one of my favourite ways to eat it! And then we had crab shabu shabu - with lots of fresh vegetables (hakusai, mizuna, enoki and shiitake mushrooms, carrots, silken tofu).

Yum! Crab coma!!! Don't regret the spike in cholesterol at all.

Osaka Aquarium

I love aquariums. Even then, we spent a longer time than expected in Osaka Aquarium (Kaiyukan). Hubby commented that whenever we visit an aquarium, I get all excited and big-eyed with fascination like a kid.

Asian small-clawed otters (Amblonyx cinerea), Osaka Aquarium

Pacific white-sided dolphins (Lagenorhynchus obliquidens), Tasman Sea, Osaka Aquarium

Pacific white-sided dolphin playing with seaweed, Osaka Aquarium

I love dolphins - not just because they are intelligent, but also because they are graceful and playful. While watching, one of the Pacific white-sided dolphins started playing with a small tendril of seaweed - pushing the tendril with its nose, and its fin.

One of the many spotted eagle rays (Aetobatus narinari) in the main tank, Osaka Aquarium

Scalloped hammerhead shark in the main tank, Osaka Aquarium

Yu-chan the whale shark (Rhincodon typus) in the main tank, Osaka Aquarium

Yu-chan the whale shark (Rhincodon typus) in the main tank, Osaka Aquarium

One of the major stars of the main tank is Yu-chan, a whale shark that weighs 850kg and measures 4.3m long.

An egg sac with a shark embryo (probably of the catshark species), Osaka Aquarium

A large grouper (maybe a Malabar grouper?) in the main tank, Osaka Aquarium

This is how big the grouper was. Hubby is looking at it ans going "yuuummmm, dinner..."

Marbled rockfish and the Japanese Spider Crab (Macrocheira kaempferi), Osaka Aquarium. And again, all we could think of was "yuuuummmm..."

I think the jellyfish display at Enoshima Aquarium (Enosui) is much better. But to be fair, the one at Osaka is still quite good. Every time I see jellyfish, I am reminded of Kuragehime (Princess Jellyfish), and can't help but think of jellyfish dresses for Blythe! Nomu is the Blythe otaku in Kuragehime - she appears in Chapter 31 of the manga. It's an awesome panel in that chapter!

Clinging Jellyfish (Gonionemus vertens), Osaka Aquarium.

Can't remember if this was the Pacific Sea Nettle (Chrysaora fuscescens) or the Japanese Sea Nettle (Chrysaora pacifica), Osaka Aquarium

Moon jellies (Aurelia aurita), Osaka Aquarium

Moon jellies (Aurelia aurita) (left) and Flower Hat jellies (Olindias formosus), Osaka Aquarium

I never get tired of watching moon jellies, and spent some time at the moon jelly tank. But on this trip, my favourite would have to be the very pretty and colourful Flower Hat Jelly (Olindias formosus). This rare jelly has a pinstriped bell and many many many long and thin tentacles tipped in fluorescent yellow and pink!

The Upside-down Jellyfish (Cassiopea sp.), a true jellyfish species that spends most of its time upside-down at the bottom of the sea.

The Arctic ringed seal (Pusa hispida or Phoca hispida), Osaka Aquarium

The Arctic ringed seal (Pusa hispida or Phoca hispida), Osaka Aquarium

So many more sea creatures from Japan and around the world that I didn't take photos of. Of those I photographed, I didn't post because the photos were blurry! Like the harbour seal, ocean sunfish and the capybaras.

Yui Jamie across the road from Mandarake, Osaka

After Osaka Aquarium, we rushed to Mandarake Osaka.

Mandarake Osaka

Mandarake Osaka

Pretty awesome, though I think it's hard to beat the Mandarake stores in Akihabara and Nakano Broadway. I did see My Melody and Junie Moon Cutie going for ¥58,000 (~USD542) and ¥40,000 (~USD374) respectively, but I was not keen on them. If there was an Ahcahcum Zukin or a Margo Unique Girl... (>,<) But then again, the price tag also plays a major role. I'm not willing to part with ¥320,000 (USD2,600 at the time) - the price of Margo Unique Girl when I last saw her at Mandarake Nakano (while on our 2015 autumn trip).

Yakiniku never fails to cheer things up!

Hubby is such a sweet. He noticed I was a little depressed that I didn't really find any toys on this trip. So, at dinner, he steadily piled me with Japanese beef perfectly grilled, to cheer me up. (Happy belly = happy wife - he says this has been proven time and time again. But then, he's the same.)

Golden Week 2016

- Golden Week 2016 I: Sakura in Hakodate

- Golden Week 2016 II: Sakura in Sapporo

- Golden Week 2016 III: Kyoto, Uji, Osaka