CNY Getaway 2019 #2/4 - Shizuoka & Fuji Five Lakes
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| Shiraito Falls, Fujinomiya, Shizuoka (on IG) |
Our driving route from the plum blossoms of Odawara (Part 1) to Shizuoka where we took in a different face of Mt Fuji, before we briefly returned to our annual haunt, Fuji Five Lakes, as well as Hakone.
Lake Tanuki
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| Mt Fuji from Lake Tanuki, Fujinomiya, Shizuoka (on IG) |
Next stop was Lake Tanuki (Tanukiko), a man-made lake in the Asagiri Highland, on the west of Mt Fuji. After having seen views of Mt Fuji from all 5 lakes and other spots at the Fuji Five Lakes area, we are now exploring the Shizuoka side. Would that make me and Hubby crazy Mt Fuji otaku completionists? Oh, and come to think on it...Elizabeth Rose was also with us on the trip when we went to all the Fuji Five Lakes!
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| Mt Fuji from the south camping site of Lake Tanuki, Fujinomiya, Shizuoka (on IG) |
Lake Tanuki was created in 1935 when water from the Shiba River was diverted to create a reservoir for irrigation purposes. Now there are camping grounds and some resorts around the banks of the lake. Most of which have views of Mt Fuji. We were fortunate that it was a clear and crisp day, and the view of Mt Fuji was superb.
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| Mt Fuji from the lake deck of Lake Tanuki, Fujinomiya, Shizuoka (on IG) |
One of the best viewing spots is the lake deck not far from the hotel Kyukamura Fuji, on the southwestern part of Lake Tanuki. This spot is best known for the Double Diamond Fuji, which happens on 20th April and 20th August when the sun is at the peak of Mt Fuji and the view is reflected in the lake.
Besides the view from Lake Motosu, I think this one also makes our list of favourite Mt Fuji viewing spots!
Shiraito Falls
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| View of Shiraito Falls and Mt Fuji, Fujinomiya, Shizuoka (on IG) |
When in Shizuoka, one can't miss Shiraito Falls (Shiraito no Taki), located at the southwest of Mt Fuji. It's ranked among Japan's Top 100 Waterfalls, a designated national place of scenic beauty and a Natural Treasure of Japan (since 1936). It is also UNESCO World Heritage listed, along with Mt Fuji.
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| Shiraito Falls, Fujinomiya, Shizuoka (others on IG) |
It's pretty accessible and easy to walk to. From the carpark, there's a paved trail that leads right down to the base of the waterfall. There are quite a few souvenir shops along the path, but it's overall pretty quiet. Or maybe we were just there at the off-peak tourist season. Apparently one of the best times to visit is autumn.
The view from afar is lovely, but it doesn't compare with the view up close.
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| Shiraito Falls, Fujinomiya, Shizuoka (on IG) |
As we got closer to the base, I was even more mesmerised. No wonder it's a spot that has been praised in Japanese poetry and depicted in Japanese art from ancient times! Apparently, Shiraito Falls are also regarded as sacred by worshippers of Mt Fuji.
Beauty aside, it is an amazing work of nature too. At 20m high, Shiraito Falls is not high, but it is very wide: the entire waterfall is 150~200m wide. The water just looks like it's streaming out of the trees and the lava rock wall.
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| Shiraito Falls, Fujinomiya, Shizuoka (others on IG) |
Parts of the waterfall stream out of the rock in thin white streams, resembling white threads. Which is why the waterfall is called Shiraito Falls, shiraito literally meaning "white threads". The waterfall is fed by underground snow melt from Mt Fuji. The snow melt from Mt Fuji takes 10-15 years to seep through the lava rock before streaming out here, at Shiraito Falls.
Obinmizu
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| Obinmizu, Fujinomiya, Shizuoka |
Not far from Shiraito Falls is a deep pond called Obinmizu. The water is crystal clear and is potable. The water is also from underground snow melt from Mt Fuji that has welled up through layers of lava rock over years.
The name of the pond literally means "hair water", and derives from a legend that the Kamakura shogun Minamoto no Yoritomo is said to have fixed his hair by the pond.
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| Obinmizu, Fujinomiya, Shizuoka |
It was a little difficult to get down to the pond, as the ground was rocky and a little steep. There's also a sense of sacredness to the place, probably because of the various small stone monuments and small shrines scattered around the spring. Apparently, Obinmizu is also considered a sacred spot by Mt Fuji worshippers.
Otodome Falls
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| Otodome Falls, Fujinomiya, Shizuoka |
Also close by is Otodome Falls (Otodome no Taki), a roaring waterfall that makes a great contrast to Shiraito Falls' graceful beauty. Otodome Falls is fed by the Shiba River, and comes pouring down in a torrential roar of water. I suppose if one were to describe Shiraito Falls as graceful and feminine, then Otodome would be forceful and masculine? It is also listed as one of Japan's Top 100 Waterfalls.
The name Otodome literally means "sound stopping", and was so-named from Soga Monogatari, a famous Kamakura period tale of the Soga brothers who plotted the assassination of Kudou Suketsune (a retainer of Minamoto no Yoritomo) to avenge the murder of their father. To avoid being overheard, the Soga brothers discussed their plan by the waterfall. However, legend has it that when they prayed to the gods for success, the waterfall momentarily stopped.
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| Mt Fuji from Fujinomiya, Shizuoka |
From the carpark, we had a great view of Mt Fuji.
Mumesan
For lunch we stopped by Mumesan, a no-frills place near Shiraito Falls. |
| Mumesan, Fujinomiya, Shizuoka |
The place is recommended by Fujinomiya locals for its yakisoba and okonomiyaki.
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| Fujinomiya yakisoba at Mumesan, Fujinomiya, Shizuoka |
So, here's my plate of Fujinomiya yakisoba, a Shizuoka specialty, touted as Shizuoka's soul food.... Chewy elastic noodles, just nicely coated with lard, lots of textural crunch from the cabbage, with a nice smokiness. (A Japanese style wok hei, I guess?)
Oshino Hakkai
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| Oshino Hakkai, Fuji Five Lakes |
Finally, we went to Oshino Hakkai, a small village in the Fuji Five Lakes area where there are 8 clear, freshwater ponds. The water of the 8 ponds are crystal clear, being fed by snow melt from Mt Fuji that have filtered through lava rock for over 80 years. The ponds were already in existence since the 12th century. The place was designated a National Treasure in 1934, and is part of the Mt Fuji UNESCO World Heritage listing.
Accolades aside, Oshino Hakkai is also a place of pilgrimage for Fujiko adherents (ascetic devotees who worship Mt Fuji), as well as a place where they come to purify themselves with the water before ascending Mt Fuji. In 1843, one of the Fujiko groups called "Taiga-ko" restarted the traditional use of ponds as sacred spots or pilgrimage sites, calling the area "Fujisan Nemoto Hakko". Fujiko adherents apparently sought to emulate Fujiko founder Kakugyo Hasegawa's "Hakkai" pilgrimage, and would follow a pilgrimage circuit and carry out water rituals at each spring. I wonder what they would think, seeing hordes of tourists (myself included) coming here to oogle at the ponds. I even see some idiot tourists tossing coins into the ponds, blatantly disregarding clear signs that say not to do so... and that makes me feel annoyed, so I wonder what the pilgrims feel.
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| Oshino Hakkai, Fuji Five Lakes |
We've been coming by Fuji Five Lakes several times the past few years but have previously not come by Oshino Hakkai. Now that we have, I have to admit I am not inclined to pop by again any time soon. It's not that I don't find the ponds amazing; I do. One of the ponds has a spot that is 8m deep and has amazingly coloured fish, some are azure blue and light gold yellow. The water itself is crystal clear and I could look down all the way to the bottom.
Overall there is a rusticity to the place, but it is really touristy. It is mesmerising to stare into the crystal clear waters, and marvel at the quality of the spring water.... However, if there is any tranquility or sense of reverence of the place, it simply couldn't be felt. Possibly because the day we visited it was fairly crowded. Lots of tourists, most of them likewise escaping CNY, or taking the opportunity of the public holiday period to travel.
| CNY Getaway with Elizabeth Rose (February 2019) Odawara • Plum blossoms at Soga Bairin Shizuoka • Shiraito Falls • Lake Tanuki • Kawazu Cherry Blossom Festival 2019 Fuji Five Lakes • Oshino Hakkai Tokyo • Gotoku-ji • Nezu Shrine • Otome Inari Shrine • Yushima Tenmangu • Ginza Tsutaya Nakaya Pen Event |
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