CNY Getaway 2019 #4/4 - Tokyo
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| The senbon torii at Otome Inari Shrine, Tokyo (on IG) |
Things begin and things end. Just so for our getaway too. At the end of our trip (travelogue below), we made our way back to Tokyo and did the usual things: met people, ate yummy stuff, made a run to Akiba, roamed various spots.... There was a Nakaya pen event at Ginza Tsutaya which we also attended, and met with nibmeister Yoshida-san who tuned a pen of ours each. We also visited 4 shrines: Gotokuji in Setagaya (below), Nezu Shrine along with its secondary shrine Otome Inari Shrine (below), and Yushima Tenmangu in Bunkyo (below).
Despite still feeling a bit down, I was persuaded by Hubby to pop by Nippori Textile Town. Ended up getting some naniIRO as well as kimono print fabric. My mind wasn't fully engaged so I didn't source for the other items I originally had in mind, mainly notions, silk ribbons, and kimono scrap fabric. But my mood lifted again. He truly knows me best.
Gotokuji
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| The maneki-neko at Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo (on IG) |
The Soto Zen temple of Gotokuji is a quiet temple tucked away in Setagaya, a nice residential part of Tokyo, away from the usual tourist crowds. It does get a fair share of tourist visitors because of the maneki-neko ("beckoning cat") and the associated legend. But it is also a WWII Tokyo air raid survivor, and contains several important cultural properties.
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| Butsuden at Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo (on IG) |
The predecessor of Gotokuji was Kotokuin which stood on the same site from 1480. Kotokuin was built by Kira Masatada, then master of Setagaya Castle, for his aunt. Originally a Rinzai Buddhist temple, it became a Soto Zen temple in 1584. It was difficult to find information on the Kira clan. It seems that Kira Masatada was the 10th head of the clan. The clan was an ally of the Later Hojo clan, which was defeated by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in the 1590 Siege of Odawara. As a result, Setagaya Castle was abandoned, and the Kira clan faded into obscurity. Then in 1633, Setagaya was made part of the Hikone Domain, at the time ruled by the 2nd* daimyo Ii Naotaka. Naotaka built his family ancestral temple here. The temple's present name "Gotokuji" dates from 1659, and is associated with Naotaka's posthumous name "Kyūshōin dono gōtoku ten'ei koji".
[*Some sources say 3rd, others say 2nd. Most Japanese sources, including the temple information board, say 2nd.]
At the start is the Sanmon, which is recorded to have originally been built in 1884, but was rebuilt in the early Showa period after the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake. The information board said something (in Japanese*) about there being a plaque/picture on the Sanmon that states "hekiunkan" (literally "azure sky gate" or "azure cloud gate"). On this point I am not sure what the info board means, maybe an old name?
[*明治17年（1884）1月上棟の記録があり、関東大震災後、昭和初期に再建された。掲げられた額には「碧雲関」とある。]
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| Butsuden at Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo (on IG) |
Past the Sanmon is the Butsuden (Altar Hall), with a huge black incense burner with a komainu on it. The Butsuden was built in 1677 to hold memorial services for Ii Naotaka by his eldest daughter (known as Kamehime or 掃雲院). Under her influence, the hall's architectural style is of the Obaku Zen, of which she was an adherent.
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| Butsuden at Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo (on IG) |
The front of the Butsuden has a calligraphy plaque with the words "Buddha of Three Ages" which means the 3 generations of the present, past and future, signifying Gautama Buddha (Shakanyorai), Amitabha (Amida Nyorai)*, and Maitreya (Miroku Bosatsu), and several other enshrined Buddhas.
[*This is what the temple information board stated in Japanese: 仏殿の正面に篆額「弐世佛」があり、それは現在、過去、未来の三世を意味している。それを表す、阿弥陀如来坐像、弥勒菩薩坐像の外、多くの諸佛が安置されている。But I am a little confused as usually Dipankara (Nentoubutsu) is honoured as one of the Three.]
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| Stone lantern at Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo (on IG) |
The Butsuden is designated a tangible cultural property of Setagaya. It seems the stone box lantern also dates to 1677.... Inside the Altar Hall, also designated as tangible cultural properties of Setagaya are the 5 wooden statues of Gautama Buddha (72cm, dated 1677), Amitabha (72cm, dated 1677), Maitreya (72cm, dated 1935), Bodhidharma, and Daigen Shuri Bosatsu (101cm).
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| Temple bell at Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo |
Next to the Altar Hall is the temple bell (bonshou), which was cast in 1679 by famed Edo period blacksmith Fujiwara Masatsugu, also known as Otarokuuemon. The bell's donor was the same person who also commissioned the Altar Hall. The bell is the oldest item in Setagaya ward and was designated a tangible cultural asset of Setagaya in 2000.
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| Pagoda at Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo |
On the other side of the Altar Hall is the three-storied pagoda (Sanjunoto) which stands at 22.5m tall. Buddhist relics and statues of Gautama Buddha, Mahākāśyapa, Ananda, and Kannon are placed in the area.
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| Carvings on the pagoda, Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo |
The pagoda has carvings of the 12 zodiac animals and cats. So on the 1st tier on one side are an ox, a maneki-neko with 2 rats (ironic!), and wild boars (inoshishi).
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| Carving of a cat at the front of the pagoda, Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo |
On the second tier are 2 cats and a maneki-neko. There's another kitten out front, playing with a ball.
This was pretty interesting since the cat is not part of the 12 zodiac animals. Considering the Chinese story of the Great Race, it was weird to see the maneki-neko together with the rats. (I have just thought of an old anime called Fruits Basket.)
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| Akamon at Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo (on IG) |
Passed through the Akamon. This little red gate was donated by the Ii family in 1885, and was formerly a gate from the family's Edo residence called 新中雀門 (Shin'naka Suzume-mon?). The Akamon was relocated from the site of the temple's current East Gate.
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| Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo (on IG) |
Behind the Butsuden and Akamon is the Hondo (Main Hall) and Hotto (Lecture Hall). The building was built and relocated in 1967. Within the hall are statues of Kannon, Manjusri (Monju Bosatsu), Samantabhadra (Fugen Bosatsu) and Kshitigarbha (Jizo Bosatsu).
Also displayed is a Western style portrait of Ii Naosuke, painted by Naosuke's 3rd son Ii Naoyasu. Naosuke was the 15th daimyo of Hikone, 13th Tairo* of the Tokugawa shogunate during the Bakumatsu era. He is known for signing the 1858 Harris Treaty (see Nagasaki Part 1), and in 1860 was assassinated by opposing factions outside Edo Castle's Sakuradamon (which we visited in 2017). This portrait was designated a tangible cultural property of Setagaya.
[*Some sources say the 12th Tairo, the temple's information board said 13th ("Bakumatsu no Tairo 13-dai Naosuke").]
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| Plum blossoms at Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo (on IG) |
According to the information board, the temple has many flowering plants/trees that can be enjoyed throughout the seasons, such as plum, sakura, azaleas and hydrangeas. Being winter-time, other than the pine trees, everything else was bare. However, the plum tree near the hondo was beginning to bloom.
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| Plum blossoms outside the hondo at Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo |
As it had rained earlier, little raindrops clung to the kobai blossoms like little crystal drops.
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| Ema featuring maneki-neko and wild boar (inoshishi), Gotokuji (on IG) |
Just off the Hondo is the Kaisodo (Founder's Hall). At its consecration ceremony in November 1999, figures/images of various Soto Zen Buddhist Zenji such as Dogen Zenji and Keizan Jokin, and Prince Shotoku, as well as mortuary tablets of the daimyo and of the temple's patrons were installed.
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| Kannon statue at Shofukuden, Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo |
And then is the Shofukuden where the maneki-neko dedication site is. The area is has a statue of Kannon.
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| The maneki-neko of Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo (on IG) |
Legend has it that the maneki-neko was created in the image of the priest's cat that saved Ii Naotaka. As the story goes, the priest took in a stray white cat, which he named Tama. The priest lived in poverty in the temple but always shared whatever he had with Tama. But things worsened and one day, the priest told Tama that it may be better off fending for itself. Tama left but didn't go very far. It sat by the road near the temple, and it started to rain. Just then, Ii Naotaka passed by, some sources say he was simply passing through, others say he had been hunting. As Naotaka stopped to shelter under a tree, and saw Tama seemingly beckoning to him with its paw to enter the temple. Naotaka approached Tama, and just then a bolt of lightning struck the tree he had just left. His life saved, Naotaka followed Tama into the temple where he was welcomed by the priest and took shelter from the thunderstorm. Naotaka later became the patron of the temple and made it his ancestral temple, and it rose to prosperity. When Tama died, the priest made a statue of it (the first maneki-neko statue) to honour it. Word spread and people began placing maneki-neko figurines in their homes, shops, etc., believing it would bring in luck and prosperity.
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| Maneki-neko at Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo (on IG) |
Although the origin of the maneki-neko is disputed, this legend is widely known, and is widely accepted to be its origins. The maneki-neko is now a popular charm for safety, luck, business success, or the fulfilment of prayers. The legend also gave rise to Hikonyan, a cat mascot created to mark the 400th anniversary of Hikone Castle.
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| Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo. |
Also within the temple is the family tomb of the Ii family. It was designated a national historic site in 2008. First is the grave of Naotaka, followed by the graves of the successive generations of Ii daimyo in order, including the grave of Ii Naosuke.
Some other notable figures in Japanese history are also buried here. I was surprised to learn that one of them is the noted British architect Josiah Conder (1852-1920). Conder was architect who designed the residence of Mitsubishi founder Iwasaki Yataro, now the Kyu-Iwasaki-tei. He was also the mentor/teacher of some of the Japanese architects who designed several of the foreign residences in the Glover Garden in Nagasaki, which we visited in late 2017 (see Nagasaki Part I).
Nezu Shrine & Otome Inari Shrine
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| Otome Inari Shrine, Nezu Shrine, Bunkyo, Tokyo (on IG) |
We also visited the Nezu Shrine and the Otome Inari Shrine in the Bunkyo ward, another nice quiet area in Tokyo, where Tokyo University is also located (posted here). The shrine is best known for its senbon torii and its azalea garden. The garden has 3,000 azalea shrubs, and is popular from mid-April to early May, when the azalea festival also takes place. The shrine's Reitaisai is held in mid-September.
We first went to the Otome Inari Shrine, because we arrived at the northern entrance of the shrine grounds. Apparently, traditionally, young maidens (hence otome) came here to pray for good marriage. Query if they still come!
The shrine has a small platform that overlooks a pond and the azalea garden. From the platform, one can also see the latticed sukibei wall surrounding the Nezu Shrine.
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| The senbon torii at Otome Inari Shrine (on IG) |
Otome Inari Shrine is known for its senbon torii, the vermilion torii tunnel. And it has been compared to the one at Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto. Well, Fushimi Inari is one of my favourites and I could visit it over and over without getting bored. It was nice to find a place with something similar. But to be honest, the 2 aren't quite the same.
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| The senbon torii at Otome Inari Shrine (on IG) |
I'm not saying the senbon torii at Otome Inari Shrine aren't wonderful. They are, and I was totally entranced. But despite their surface similarities, they're also different.
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| Senbon torii at Otome Inari Shrine, Bunkyo, Tokyo (on IG) |
The senbon torii at Fushimi Inari Taisha are larger, even the small ones at the start of the tunnel. The ones at Otome Inari Shrine are narrower and lower. They have a more "cozy" feel because of their size, and this does rather create a difference in the atmosphere created. Feels rather a little more charming, as opposed to the slight imposing awe felt by the ones at Fushimi Inari.
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| The senbon torii at Otome Inari Shrine (on IG) |
Walked through the entire length of the senbon torii and found it rather calming (IG video). I can kind of see—sense?—why the torii tunnel was traditionally thought to symbolize the entrance to a sacred place.
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| The senbon torii at Otome Inari Shrine (on IG) |
On one side of the torii tunnel is the azalea garden. It's winter now so there aren't any flowers. But for a moment I closed my eyes and tried to picture what the place would look like during peak bloom....
After Otome Inari Shrine, we went through to the Nezu Shrine. Nezu Shrine was also formerly called Nezo Gongen but the use of that name declined as a result of the Meiji government policy of Shinbutsu Bunri (the policy to separate Buddhism and Shintoism).
The current Nezu Shrine was established in its location in 1705 by Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, the 5th Tokugawa shogun. However, legend has it that Nezu Shrine was first founded in the 1st century by Yamato Takeru, a legendary prince of the Yamato dynasty. Whether it was founded in the 1st century or in 1705, it is still one of the oldest shrines in Tokyo. Most of the shrine buildings date from 1706, and are designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan.
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| The romon at Nezu Shrine, Bunkyo, Tokyo |
Out front, just after the bridge is the bright red romon. The romon was built in 1706 and is designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan. This gate style looks like it has 2 storeys, but the upper storey actually cannot be accessed and has no usable space, it is skirted by a shallow balcony with a balustrade. The romon at Nezu Shrine has 2 zuishin, guardian deities dressed in court dress, holding bows and arrow in Shinto mythology.
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| The karamon and sukibei wall of Nezu Shrine, Bunkyo, Tokyo |
After the romon, we came to the karamon, and the surrounding latticed wall known as the sukibei wall. The karamon and the sukibei wall are designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan.
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| The haiden at Nezu Shrine, Bunkyo, Tokyo |
The haiden is pretty amazing. Okay, we've been to other larger and more magnificent shrines. But the one at Nezu Shrine has its own amazing qualities, with its rich vermilion, gold leaf and details. The haiden dates from 1706, and is also designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan.
The structure is in the gongen-zukuri style (also called Ishinoma-zukuri), meaning that the honden (main hall), haiden (worship hall), and heiden (offertory hall) are all interconnected within the same structure, and the format is shaped like the H letter. The shrine was modelled after the Nikko Toshogu, which is the best example of the architectural style.
Feel like we've not really done this shrine justice, so maybe it's worth a re-visit, even if it's just to satisfy curiosity alone. But then again, I wouldn't mind making a run through the senbon torii again or seeing the azalea garden at peak bloom!
Yushima Tenmangu
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| Ema at Yushima Tenmangu, Bungyo, Tokyo (on IG) |
After Nezu Shrine, we decided to make our way to the Yushima Tenmangu, also in the Bunkyo ward, about a 25-minute walk away from Nezu Shrine. Hubby was totally fine with it...until we got to the staircase at Tenjin Meotozaka. Well, it wasn't as long or steep as the one at Kyoto Kitano Tenman Shrine (Part 9 post pending), so.... But still....（￣□￣；）A little funny though, as "meoto" means "husband and wife"....
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| Yushima Tenmangu, Bungyo, Tokyo (on IG) |
Yushima Tenmangu was originally established in 458 AD for Ameno-tajikarao-no-mikoto. In 1355, Tenman-tenjin, the kami of learning and scholarship, was enshrined at the shrine. Which may explain why the shrine is also called Yushima Tenjin.
Most Tenjin shrines have plum trees. So it's no great surprise that Yushima Tenmangu has plum trees too. During his mortal life as Heian era scholar Sugawara no Michizane, Tenjin-sama was a great admirer of plum blossoms. How he came to be deified was covered in my Kyoto Kitano Tenmangu post.
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| Lots of ema at Yushima Tenmangu (on IG) |
As with many Tenjin shrines, Yushima Tenmangu is popular among Japanese students, who come here to pray during school entrance examinations, and etc other exam times. Given the shrine's proximity to Tokyo University, I wouldn't be surprised if a majority of the ema and prayer requests are of students praying for success at the Todai admission exams....
The shrine's popularity with students goes way back in time too. It is said that when the samurai-poet Ota Dokan renewed the shrine buildings in 1478. The same Ota Dokan who planted the plum trees at Edo Castle (now Bairin-zaka) as a dedication to Sugawara no Michizane. After that, many scholars and learned people, such as Hayashi Razan and Arai Hakuseki, came to Yushima Tenmangu to worship.
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| Weeping plum blossoms at Yushima Tenmangu (on IG) |
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| Weeping plum blossoms at Yushima Tenmangu (on IG) |
Plum blossom viewing is much older than sakura blossom viewing. The herald for spring and flower-viewing banquets in ancient Chinese culture actually centred on the plum blossom. And for a time in Japan, around the Nara period, hanami parties centred around the plum blossom. The sakura became prevalent only during the Heian period.
Personally I love plum blossoms. Although my love for plum blossoms does not clearly eclipse my love for sakura, I also can't say sakura trumps all. I guess it's like the hot debate people have about which season they prefer: sakura in the spring, or autumn foliage in the fall. They each have their beauty, unique in themselves.
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| Plum blossoms at Yushima Tenmangu (on IG) |
We were at the shrine a little early, just a day before the actual start of the Ume Matsuri. Dang. The plum blossom season was also just beginning. There were a few flowers out, but as a whole most of the trees were still in bud. It was still beautiful. The knobbly, tightly furled buds, clad in fresh spring green, looking ready to burst into bloom, full of energy and life!
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| Just starting to flower...plum blossoms at Yushima Tenmangu (on IG) |
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| Plum blossoms at Yushima Tenmangu (on IG) |
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| Red plum blossoms (kobai) at Yushima Tenmangu |
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| Plum blossoms at Yushima Tenmangu (on IG) |
Of course the plum garden here can't really compete with Soga Bairin in Odawara, or some of the other top plum blossoms spots in Tokyo. However, the little plum grove at Yushima Tenmangu has its own charm.
Dolly stuff at Akihabara
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| Azone shop at Radio Kaikan, Akihabara |
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| Azone shop at Radio Kaikan, Akihabara |
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| A bunch of Rodys from Akihabara! |
At Mandarake, there were quite a few of the rarer Blythes for sale, both old and new releases. Several translucent ones too. There was a Margo Unique Girl, Miss Sally Rice and Phoebe Maybe.... There was a time when I would've jumped, but these days.... I didn't feel particularly tempted. Am very happy with my current clan and, well, my girls have been neglected.
The Azone shop had a few Kikipops on display at the front, with these really adorable stuffed toys. Gonna have to find out who is the maker.
Even though the rest of the dolly community seems to have moved on to other kinds of dolls (like the Holalas and Miyuki Odani Cherry dolls), I still find Kikipops really adorable. Seems they're still quite popular in Japan...???
Looked up the Azone outfits, and rather like the male hakama school uniform. Very Meiji/Taisho era shosei kind of dress and look. Reminds me a little of Sayonara, Zetsubou-sensei or one of those bishounen Taisho period anime/games. Hmmm...Maybe I should do a Meiji/Taisho period school uniform set?
And I found some mini Rodys... Perfect souvenir for someone! Plus they're a nice size for Blythe too.
Sushi!
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| Watarigani shiokara (left), blowfish shirako and skin (right), Sushi Kimura, Tokyo | |
We returned (again!) to Sushi Kimura for more of Kimura-san's jukusei sushi and bellyful of warm laughter. Gosh, I love Kumira-san and his great sense of humour! This was the best one yet, flavourful and oh-so umami. He didn't have his signature gomi soup, but boy! was every item tastier than ever. Especially his watarigani shiokara which went down so well with the sake he recommended, the Aramasa No. 6 X-Type (Akita). The kanpachi and makajiki. I swear I must've drunk half the bottle, way more than my usual.
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| Aramasa No. 6 Type X. Sushi Kimura, Tokyo |
We went with the recommended sake tasting menu. I managed at least 5 glasses and Hubby 8 before we lost count. I can't even remember all the labels and names anymore... Vaguely recall one/two from Yamagata, and from Niigata, and from Akita, and maybe Iwate and Aichi. I do remember taking a liking to a Sumikawa Toyo Bijin (Yamaguchi), and a unique Aramasa Amaneko (Akita).
They were all good and became a bit of a talking point among the customers who were having the recommended sake, in part due to an annoying customer who was trashing Chef Nakamura's sake list for not carrying his "favourites like Juyondai" thus "forcing [him] to have to order wine and champagne instead". Chef was amazingly good-natured and took in all in his stride. In the meantime everyone else would make occasional jibes in Japanese, partly to let the chef know they liked whatever was selected and partly to let off steam. And Mr. Annoying never figured out that everyone else was doing that.
CNY Getaway with Elizabeth Rose (February 2019)Odawara • Plum blossoms at Soga BairinShizuoka • Shiraito Falls • Lake Tanuki • Kawazu Cherry Blossom Festival 2019 Fuji Five Lakes • Oshino Hakkai Tokyo • Gotoku-ji • Nezu Shrine • Otome Inari Shrine • Yushima Tenmangu • Ginza Tsutaya Nakaya Pen Event |
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