Momijigari with Elizabeth Rose - Kitano Tenmangu, Kyoto
The final momijigari stop in the Kyoto leg of our autumn 2016 trip was Kitano Tenmangu. As mentioned, this was our second visit to Kitano Tenmangu (北野天満宮). During our first visit in late December 2012, Hubby and I both went up to the honden to ring the bell and wish for academic success - partly on a whim, partly in all earnestness. This trip, we were there to view the fall foliage in the Momiji-en, the shrine's maple grove. However, Hubby and I did think we should show our gratitude to Tenjin-sama for Hubby's time at Cambridge.
Kitano Tenmangu is a very popular shrine during the examination season (especially when Japanese students are going to take entrance exams) due to its origins. It is a Shinto shrine dedicated to Sugawara Michizane (菅原 道真) (845-903), a scholar, poet and court official in the Heian era; and today revered as Tenman-Tenjin (天満天神), the Shinto kami for learning or scholarship.
Sugawara Michizane was from a prestigious scholar family. Members of his family (including himself) had served the Japanese Imperial Court for generations, and had taught at the national academy, the Daigaku. He was well-versed in Classical Chinese language (written) and literature, a skill that was highly prized in the Heian era, and had served as ambassador to China under Emperor Uda (宇多天皇). He was also a talented poet, known for his kanshi and waka poems.
All of this sounds very innocuous but the backstory is actually quite unnerving. Kitano Tenmangu was first built in 947 to appease Michizane's vengeful spirit (which the Japanese call onryo), and he was deified sometime in 986.
Under Emperor Uda, Michizane and other officials from non-Fujiwara clans were promoted to key official positions, partly in a bid by Emperor Uda to restore political power to the Imperial family, and to weaken the influence of the Fujiwara clan in the Imperial court. Michizane quickly rose through the ranks, and his counsel was very well regarded by Emperor Uda. However, Emperor Uda abdicated in favour of his son, later the Emperor Daigo (醍醐天皇). In 901, through the maneuvering of his political rival Fujiwara Tokihira (藤原 時平), Michizane was demoted to a minor official post in the remote Chikuzen Province (present-day Fukuoka). In effect, Michizane was exiled from the Imperial court. In 903, Michizane died a lonely death, far from the capital.
After his death, the capital suffered lightning strikes, heavy rains and flooding. The Shishinden of the Imperial Palace was repeatedly struck by lightning. Sons of Emperor Daigo (himself part Fujiwara on his mother's side) died in succession, and many leading Fujiwara clan members either died or had their residences destroyed by fires and floods. The Imperial court attributed this to the Michizane's vengeful spirit (onryo). To appease his spirit, they built Kitano Tenmangu, restored all his titles and offices, and removed all records of his exile. Michizane was subsequently deified as Tenman-Tenjin.
Tenjin was initially viewed as a kami of natural disasters and worshipped to avoid curses. However, around the Edo period, he became regarded as a patron of scholarship due to his reputation as a scholar and poet during his lifetime. Today, he is viewed as the kami of scholarship, and is prayed to for success in examinations.
Tenmangu shrines are generally associated with ume blossoms, in particular the tobiume, because in his lifetime, the ume tree was a favourite of Michizane. And Kitano Tenmangu is best known for its ume tree grove, the Bai-en (around 2,000 trees!); the Plum Blossom Festival (梅花祭; Baikasai) held every 25th February; and its flea market.
So, why on earth would we be here for fall foliage?
Well, to the west of the shrine's main hall is a maple garden, the Momiji-en, which has around 300 maple trees. Pictures say it best.
Some years ago, Kitano Tenmangu became a popular momijigari spot because the Momiji-en was opened to the public during autumn season. And boy am I so glad it did.
The maples surround an area containing remnants of a historic fortification known as the Odoi (御土居). The Odoi follows the Kamiya River, and along the pathway is a rather picturesque red-arched bridge (which I think is called Uguisubashi). I missed the stone monument near the bridge that has "Odoi" in kanji carved onto it.
The Odoi was built by daimyo Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣 秀吉; 1536-1537) around Kyoto in 1591. (Hideyoshi is one of the three unifiers of Japan during the Sengoku period.) The Odoi was a system of earthworks and moats that incorporated the streams and rivers which surrounded Kyoto's historic centre, west of the Kamogawa. In the past, it covered present-day Kitayama-dori to Kyoto Station; bounded to the east by the Kamogawa, and it stretched westwards to present-day Enmachi Station at Marutamachi-dori.
Today, not much of the Odoi remains, but sections of it can still be seen in the Momiji-en. It makes a lovely autumn sight flanked by maple trees. Apparently some of the maples are over 400 years old....
There was something calming about strolling through the Momiji-en, under the autumn leaves, as the sky gradually darkened into a deep blue. The lights came on to illuminate the maples, creating spots of shadow and bright lights.
Kitano Tenmangu is a very popular shrine during the examination season (especially when Japanese students are going to take entrance exams) due to its origins. It is a Shinto shrine dedicated to Sugawara Michizane (菅原 道真) (845-903), a scholar, poet and court official in the Heian era; and today revered as Tenman-Tenjin (天満天神), the Shinto kami for learning or scholarship.
 |
| Elizabeth Rose at Kitano Tenmangu, Kyoto |
Sugawara Michizane was from a prestigious scholar family. Members of his family (including himself) had served the Japanese Imperial Court for generations, and had taught at the national academy, the Daigaku. He was well-versed in Classical Chinese language (written) and literature, a skill that was highly prized in the Heian era, and had served as ambassador to China under Emperor Uda (宇多天皇). He was also a talented poet, known for his kanshi and waka poems.
All of this sounds very innocuous but the backstory is actually quite unnerving. Kitano Tenmangu was first built in 947 to appease Michizane's vengeful spirit (which the Japanese call onryo), and he was deified sometime in 986.
 |
| Sankomon, Kitano Tenmangu |
Under Emperor Uda, Michizane and other officials from non-Fujiwara clans were promoted to key official positions, partly in a bid by Emperor Uda to restore political power to the Imperial family, and to weaken the influence of the Fujiwara clan in the Imperial court. Michizane quickly rose through the ranks, and his counsel was very well regarded by Emperor Uda. However, Emperor Uda abdicated in favour of his son, later the Emperor Daigo (醍醐天皇). In 901, through the maneuvering of his political rival Fujiwara Tokihira (藤原 時平), Michizane was demoted to a minor official post in the remote Chikuzen Province (present-day Fukuoka). In effect, Michizane was exiled from the Imperial court. In 903, Michizane died a lonely death, far from the capital.
After his death, the capital suffered lightning strikes, heavy rains and flooding. The Shishinden of the Imperial Palace was repeatedly struck by lightning. Sons of Emperor Daigo (himself part Fujiwara on his mother's side) died in succession, and many leading Fujiwara clan members either died or had their residences destroyed by fires and floods. The Imperial court attributed this to the Michizane's vengeful spirit (onryo). To appease his spirit, they built Kitano Tenmangu, restored all his titles and offices, and removed all records of his exile. Michizane was subsequently deified as Tenman-Tenjin.
Tenjin was initially viewed as a kami of natural disasters and worshipped to avoid curses. However, around the Edo period, he became regarded as a patron of scholarship due to his reputation as a scholar and poet during his lifetime. Today, he is viewed as the kami of scholarship, and is prayed to for success in examinations.
 |
| Momiji-en, Kitano Tenmangu |
Tenmangu shrines are generally associated with ume blossoms, in particular the tobiume, because in his lifetime, the ume tree was a favourite of Michizane. And Kitano Tenmangu is best known for its ume tree grove, the Bai-en (around 2,000 trees!); the Plum Blossom Festival (梅花祭; Baikasai) held every 25th February; and its flea market.
So, why on earth would we be here for fall foliage?
Well, to the west of the shrine's main hall is a maple garden, the Momiji-en, which has around 300 maple trees. Pictures say it best.
 |
| Momiji-en, Kitano Tenmangu, Kyoto |
 |
| Momiji-en, Kitano Tenmangu, Kyoto |
Some years ago, Kitano Tenmangu became a popular momijigari spot because the Momiji-en was opened to the public during autumn season. And boy am I so glad it did.
 |
| Fall foliage in the Momiji-en, Kitano Tenmangu |
 |
| Fall foliage in the Momiji-en, Kitano Tenmangu |
 |
| The Uguisubashi at the Momiji-en, Kitano Tenmangu |
The maples surround an area containing remnants of a historic fortification known as the Odoi (御土居). The Odoi follows the Kamiya River, and along the pathway is a rather picturesque red-arched bridge (which I think is called Uguisubashi). I missed the stone monument near the bridge that has "Odoi" in kanji carved onto it.
 |
| Fall foliage and part of the Odoi in the Momiji-en, Kitano Tenmangu |
The Odoi was built by daimyo Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣 秀吉; 1536-1537) around Kyoto in 1591. (Hideyoshi is one of the three unifiers of Japan during the Sengoku period.) The Odoi was a system of earthworks and moats that incorporated the streams and rivers which surrounded Kyoto's historic centre, west of the Kamogawa. In the past, it covered present-day Kitayama-dori to Kyoto Station; bounded to the east by the Kamogawa, and it stretched westwards to present-day Enmachi Station at Marutamachi-dori.
 |
| Fall foliage and part of the Odoi in the Momiji-en, Kitano Tenmangu |
Today, not much of the Odoi remains, but sections of it can still be seen in the Momiji-en. It makes a lovely autumn sight flanked by maple trees. Apparently some of the maples are over 400 years old....
 |
| Fall foliage in the Momiji-en, Kitano Tenmangu |
There was something calming about strolling through the Momiji-en, under the autumn leaves, as the sky gradually darkened into a deep blue. The lights came on to illuminate the maples, creating spots of shadow and bright lights.
*******
More on Elizabeth's Japanese Autumn, November 2016
- I. Yokohama & the Miho Museum - Chinatown
(Heichinrou, Yokohama Mazu Temple) ● Yamashita Park ● Zou-no-Hana ●
Osanbashi Pier ● Yokohama Red Brick Warehouses ● Miho Museum
- II. Kyoto - Tofukuji ● Kiyomizudera ● Sohonzan Komyoji ● Eikando Zenrinji ● Manshuin Monzeki ● Iwakura Jissoin Monzeki ● Nanzenji, Nanzenin & Tenjuan ● Kitano Tenmangu ● Shugakuin Imperial Villa ● Sento Imperial Palace ● Kyoto Imperial Palace
- III. Tokyo - Tokyo University ● Rikugien ● Tokyo Imperial Palace & the East Gardens ● Kotonoha no Niwa trip to at Shinjuku Gyoen ● Italian at Salvatore Cuomo Bros., XEX Tokyo ● Sushi Masuda ● Nishiazabu Taku (aka Sushi Taku) ● Sushi Nakamura (1st taste of Juyondai) ● Sushi Tokami (1st taste of tossaki) ● molecular gastronomy at Tapas Molecular Bar ● French-Japanese at La Paix, Nihonbashi
- IV: Fuji Five Lakes - Part 1 (Bessho Sasa, revisited) ● Part 2 (Fuji Subaru 5th Station, Motosuko & Koyodai) ● Part 3 (Fujisansaku Park, Motosuko, Shojiko, Saiko, Kawaguchiko)
*******
Comments
Post a Comment
Thank you for stopping by. While I'd love to hear from you, I believe it is important to have a respectful and open-minded environment in which to express our views. Different views are welcome; abuse, hate speech and cyberbullying are not. Freedom of speech does not justify the unacceptable.