Momijigari with Elizabeth Rose - Kyoto Imperial Palace, Kyoto
 |
| Elizabeth Rose at the Kyoto Imperial Palace |
As mentioned elsewhere, we visited Kyoto Imperial Palace (京都御所; Kyoto Gosho) and Kyoto Imperial Palace Park (京都御苑; Kyoto Gyoen) as part of our autumn 2016 trip to Japan. Following our visit to Sento Imperial Palace, we went for a brief stroll around Kyoto Gyoen, before heading for the Palace. Both sites are free access, and a visit to the Palace no longer requires a tour or an appointment with the Imperial Household Agency.
 |
| Fall foliage at Kyoto Gyoen |
Kyoto Imperial Palace Park (or, Kyoto Gyoen) is the park that surrounds the Palace and Sento Imperial Palace. As mentioned elsewhere, the area used to be the residential area of members of the Imperial family and other court nobles. But these residences were mostly demolished or removed after the Meiji Emperor relocated his residence to Tokyo Imperial Palace following the Meiji Restoration in 1868 (more on the Tokyo Imperial Palace here).
 |
| Autumn is mostly over here at Kyoto Gyoen |
Later on, concerned with the deterioration of the Palace and its surroundings, official efforts were made to preserve the Palace and the park. In 1947, Kyoto Gyoen was made a public national park, along with the imperial parks Kokyo Gaien and Shinjuku Gyoen in Tokyo. On this trip, we also visited Shinjuku Gyoen this Japan trip (posted here). but we didn't visit the Kokyo Gaien until November 2017 (posted here).
 |
| Kyoto Gyoen |
Kyoto Gyoen is a pretty nice all-purpose park...be it to stroll in, or to do other kinds of activities like jogging or cycling. A nice, wide open space. Stroll on the very wide gravel paths, groves of trees and green lawns. Not so great when it rains however. And it was drizzling for a short while during our time there.
I belatedly learned that at the NW corner of Kyoto Gyoen is the Konoe Pond with shidare-zakura trees, which I'm sure would be lovely in spring. Also, at the SW corner is the Itsukushima Shrine, a branch shrine of the one at Miyajima (see our December 2014 visit here).
The imposing walls of the Palace can be seen from almost anywhere in Kyoto Gyoen. The eastern and western walls measure about 250m each, and the northern and southern walls about 450m each.
 |
| The tsuijibei walls of Kyoto Imperial Palace |
According to the Kyoto Imperial Palace information pamphlet, these are tsuijibei walls (築地塀). Tsuijibei are basically mud/earthen walls made by pounding a mud-clay mixture between wooden frames or tiles. These supposedly absorb moisture from the mixture, prevent the mixture from cracking, and increases the wall's stability. The Palace's walls are topped with a slanted gabled, tiled roof (called kirizuma yane) which channels rainwater away from the walls. Across the walls are 5 white lines, which apparently signify nobility.
There are a total of 6 gates in Kyoto Imperial Palace: the Gishumon (宜秋門), Seishomon (清所門), Kogomon (皇后門), Sakuheimon (朔平門), Kenshunmon (建春門), and Kenreimon (建礼門). The palace also has 12 entrances that are without roofs. The first spot of the tour route was the Gishumon (宜秋門), a gate on the western side of the Palace.
 |
| Gishumon, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
Next, the Okurumayose (御車寄), the carriage porch, was the entrance that officials or dignitaries with special permission would use when entering the Palace on official visits.
 |
| Okurumayose, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
 |
| Shodaibunoma, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
Visitors were allocated to the rooms in accordance with their rank. The Toranoma (tiger) for the most important, followed by the Tsurunoma (crane), and lastly the Sakuranoma (cherry). Visitors allocated to the Toranoma and the Tsurunoma were permitted to use the Okurumayose carriage porch, but visitors allocated to the Sakuranoma entered the room directly using stepping stones.
In 1915, the Shinmikurumayose (新御車寄), new carriage porch, was built for the Taisho Emperor (大正天皇).
 |
| Shinmikurumayose, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
This was in order to accommodate the Taisho Emperor's horse-drawn carriage, when he arrived for his enthronement ceremony in the Shishinden. The previous carriage porch was not suitable, as previous emperors used the traditional palaquins (norimono) which were carried by men.
Finally, we got to the most important building in Kyoto Imperial Palace: the Shishinden (紫宸殿), where state ceremonies such as the emperor's enthronement took place. The original building was constructed in the Heian era (794-1185) and became the prototype of the shinden-zukuri style of architecture. This style greatly influenced the architectural style adopted by the Japanese aristocracy in that era.
 |
| Shishinden, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
 |
| The Shishinden through the Jomeimon, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
Flanking the Shishinden are a mandarin orange tree called the ukon no tachibana (右近橘), and a cherry tree called the sakon no sakura (左近桜). Both are considered sacred, though they have been replanted many times since the Heian period.
The evergreen mandarin and the cherry blossom symbolise the 2 contrasting concepts of longevity/eternity and evanescence/transience.
In 1868, the Charter Oath (五箇条の御誓文; Gokajo no Goseimon), which outlined the aims of the Meiji Emperor's reign, was promulgated in the Shishinden. It is said that the Charter Oath could be considered modern Japan's first constitution.
The existing Shishinden was used for the enthronement of the Meiji Emperor in 1868; Taisho Emperor in 1915; and Showa Emperor in 1928. Since 1990, enthronement ceremonies now take place in the Tokyo Imperial Palace. (2020 update: Both the Emperor Emeritus Akihito and current Emperor Naruhito had their enthronement ceremonies in Tokyo.)
 |
| Jomeimon, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
The main entrance to the Shishinden is the Jomeimon (承明門), an inner gate painted with vermillion and with grey roof tiles. Between the Jomeimon and the Shishinden is a large courtyard completely covered with white gravel. The Shishinden and its courtyard are encircled by walls and various smaller gates in the same style as the Jomeimon.
 |
| Gekkamon, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
 |
| Nikkamon, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
Of these, on the east and west sides of the courtyard are two inner gates with paired names: the Nikkamon (日華門; literally "sun flower gate"), and Gekkamon (月華門; literally "moon flower gate").
Directly opposite the Jomeimon is the Kenreimon (建礼門), another main entrance gate that connects the outer and inner courtyards.
 |
| Kenreimon, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
Traditionally, courtiers and dignitaries would enter through the Kenreimon. This gate was sometimes used by the Emperor to welcome foreign diplomats or dignitaries.
To the east of the Shishinden is the Shunkoden (春興殿). Unlike the older buildings in the Palace which have roofs of either ceramic tiles, cypress bark, or wood, the roof of the Shunkoden was copper.
 |
| Shunkoden, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
The Shunkoden was constructed to house the sacred mirror on the occasion of Taisho Emperor's enthronement ceremony in 1915.
West of the Shishinden is another important main building, the Seiryōden (清涼殿). Similar to the Shishinden, the roof of the Seiryōden is a cypress bark roof in the shinden-zukuri style.
 |
| Seiryōden, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
The Seiryōden was originally built at the end of the 8th century, and was used until the 11th century. It was later rebuilt around 1790, using the same architectural style and structure, but on a smaller scale than the original. The Seiryōden is furnished with paintings by Tosa school masters. In front of the Seiryōden are 2 rare bamboo plants.
The Seiryōden was originally where the Emperor conducted his personal affairs, but it later also became used for formal affairs, such as gatherings and meetings.
 |
| Inside the Seiryōden, Kyoto Imperial Palace. |
According to the information pamphlet, at the centre of the room were 2 thick tatami mats called hinomashi (昼御座), where the Emperor sat to receive visitors. Behind it was a throne covered with a canopy, within which the Emperor could rest. To the right was a bedroom for the Emperor.
In 1613, the Ogakumonjo (御学問所) was separated from the Seiryōden. It was a study hall used for reading rites, poetry recitals and gatherings, and academic events such as the Otokusho Hajime (the Annual First Reading Ceremony), as well as imperial audiences.
 |
| Ogakumonjo, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
[x]
It was in the Ogakumonjo that the Meiji Emperor met with the Imperial princes and his retainers in 1867 to issue the Decree for the Restoration of Imperial Rule - a pivotal event of the 1868 Meiji Restoration.
The rooms of the Ogakumonjo are decorated with painted fusama with what are called the "Lake panels" (see here). In the lower room is Hara Zaisho's "Yueyang Pavilion"; in the middle room is Gan Tai's "Gathering at the Orchid Pavilion"; and in the upper room is Kano Eigaku's "Eighteen Scholars Ascending Yingzhou, the Mountain of Immortals". Unfortunately, these paintings were removed for conservation, and we only had information panels to look at.
 |
| Info panel on the fusama panels of the Ogakumonjo, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
Next to the Ogakumonjo is the Kogosho and Kemari-no-niwa, which I didn't photograph (too preoccupied with the lovely Oikeniwa, which is opposite). The Kogosho (小御所) was where the Emperor received the shogun and daimyo; and was also used for some rituals, e.g. the Coming-of-Age ceremonies of Princes. Architecturally, it was a blend of the shinden-zukuri and shoin-zukuri styles.
The Kemari-no-niwa (蹴鞠の庭), situated between the Kogosho and the Ogakumonjo, is a plain gravel-covered courtyard where the traditional game of kemari was played. Kemari is an ancient foot ball game, played with a deerskin ball. Like soccer, you can't use your arms, but not the same because all the players in kemari collaborate to keep the ball in the air as long as possible.
Opposite the Kogosho and Ogakumonjo is the Oikeniwa (御池庭, literally "pond garden"). The Oikeniwa is a Japanese stroll garden (kaiyu-shiki-teien) centred on a pond with 3 islets, 2 wooden bridges, and 6 stone bridges.
 |
| Oikeniwa, Kyoto Imperial Palace. |
The shore of Oikeniwa's pond is a suhama (洲浜), a pebbled "seashore" - a popular gardening concept where the curved edge of the pond is covered with a sweep of light grey, rounded pebbles. (This same concept is used at a much larger scale in the South Pond in Sento Imperial Palace.)
 |
| Keiyakibashi, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
Of the 2 wooden bridges, the larger one is made of Japanese zelkova - named the Keyakibashi (欅橋; literally "zelkova bridge").
 |
| White gravel path in the area between the Oikeniwa and Gonaitei, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
 |
| Gonaitei, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
The other garden is the Gonaitei (御内庭; literally "inner garden"). It is a yarimizu garden, meaning a garden with a shallow, winding stream. The stream running through it was originally drawn from the Kamogawa, but is now pumped from underground. Along the shores of the stream is a small suhama, not as broad as the one at the Oikeniwa (above).
 |
| Gonaitei, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
The Gonaitei has 3 bridges: an earthen bridge (dobashi), a stone bridge, and a wooden bridge. The earthen bridge (dobashi) is actually partly wood - small logs laid on a wooden structure, and then covered with a layer of earth and gravel. And grass or moss is usually grown on it, to keep the earth intact.
 |
| Gonaitei's earthen bridge (dobashi), Kyoto Imperial Palace |
The stone bridge and wood bridge are even simpler and rustic than the dobashi.
 |
| Gonaitei, stone bridge in the foreground, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
 |
| The Jishinden (left) and wooden bridge (right) at the Gonaitei, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
Near the wooden bridge is a building tucked behind a hillock at the back of the garden. Apparently it is the Jishinden (地震殿), an emergency shelter.
 |
| The wood bridge, Gonaitei, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
I particularly liked this spot of the garden, because I could also see the stream wind past, hear the water's flow, and see the pebbles at the bottom. Very peaceful. A pity the tree had already shed its foliage, because the scene with fall foliage would be even more beautiful.
Personally, I prefer the Gonaitei over the Oikeniwa. To me, the Gonaitei seems more informal and intimate, with the landscaping on the slightly wilder side. I liked the fact that the stream wound through the shrubs and trees, and there were all these little glimpses of things tucked away, waiting to be discovered.
At one corner of the Gonaitei is the Osuzumisho (御涼所), the Emperor's summer residence. The garden on the east side of the Osuzumisho is called the Ryuusen-no-niwa (龍泉の庭; literally "dragon fountain garden").
 |
| Osuzumisho, Kyoto Imperial Palace |
Facing the Gonaitei is the Otsunegoten (御常御殿) - another building I didn't photograph, oops.... The building was relocated from the Seiryōden in 1590. The Otsunegoten was used as the emperor's residence from the 16th century Muromachi period until 1869. Apparently, it has 15 rooms, which makes it the largest structure in the Palace. The rooms are decorated with painted panels and painted fusama. Unfortunately for us, these were mostly removed for conservation, but see here.
 |
| Kyoto Imperial Palace |
Adjacent to the Otsunegoten is the Omima (御三間), a room used for private events such as the annual observance of Tanabata (the Chinese Qixi) and O-bon. Like the other rooms in the Palace, the panels and fusama doors were decorated with Japanese paintings: see here for example.
In the lower room was Gan Sei's "Showing the Presented Horses to the Emperor"; in the middle room Komai Korei's "Imperial Procession to Kamo Shrine"; and in the upper room Sumiyoshi Hirotsura's "New Year's Greetings to the Emperor". I can't remember why I don't have pictures - either I didn't take any or, again, they had been taken down for conservation purposes.
 |  |
| Kyoto Imperial Palace | |
Overall, I think it was a decent spot to explore. My initial reaction was I felt somewhat underwhelmed by the whole experience. It may have been because many of the fusama panels and paintings had been taken down for conservation, and thus the area looked like a collection of buildings that looked so alike they were starting to blur. It was only when I was sorting through the pictures and working on this post that I realised that it was actually all quite interesting, or could have been more so, if we had seen it in its full glory.
*******
More on Elizabeth's Japanese Autumn, November 2016
- I. Yokohama & the Miho Museum - Chinatown (Heichinrou, Yokohama Mazu Temple) ● Yamashita Park ● Zou-no-Hana ● Osanbashi Pier ● Yokohama Red Brick Warehouses ● Miho Museum
- II. Kyoto - Tofukuji ● Kiyomizudera ● Sohonzan Komyoji ● Eikando Zenrinji ● Manshuin Monzeki ● Iwakura Jissoin Monzeki ● Nanzenji, Nanzenin & Tenjuan ● Kitano Tenmangu ● Shugakuin Imperial Villa ● Sento Imperial Palace ● Kyoto Imperial Palace
- III. Tokyo - Tokyo University ● Rikugien ● Tokyo Imperial Palace & the East Gardens ● Kotonoha no Niwa trip to at Shinjuku Gyoen ● Italian at Salvatore Cuomo Bros., XEX Tokyo ● Sushi Masuda ● Nishiazabu Taku (aka Sushi Taku) ● Sushi Nakamura (1st taste of Juyondai) ● Sushi Tokami (1st taste of tossaki) ● molecular gastronomy at Tapas Molecular Bar ● French-Japanese at La Paix, Nihonbashi
- IV: Fuji Five Lakes - Part 1 (Bessho Sasa, revisited) ● Part 2 (Fuji Subaru 5th Station, Motosuko & Koyodai) ● Part 3 (Fujisansaku Park, Motosuko, Shojiko, Saiko, Kawaguchiko)
*******
Comments
Post a Comment
Thank you for stopping by. While I'd love to hear from you, I believe it is important to have a respectful and open-minded environment in which to express our views. Different views are welcome; abuse, hate speech and cyberbullying are not. Freedom of speech does not justify the unacceptable.