Momijigari with Elizabeth Rose - Kiyomizudera, Kyoto

Kiyomizudera, Kyoto

After Tōfukuji, we visited Kiyomizudera (officially, Otowasan Kiyomizudera), probably one of the most well-known temples in Kyoto, and one of Japan's UNESCO World Heritage sites. We have actually visited before, back in late December 2012.

The name of Kiyomizudera (清水寺) means "clear water" or "pure water", and comes from the waters of the nearby Otowa Waterfall (音羽の滝; Otowa no taki). It was built in 778 by Sakanoue no Tamuramaro (坂上 田村麻呂)(758-811), a general and shogun who served under Emperor Kanmu (桓武天皇)(reign: 773-781). But its current buildings were built in 1633, under the command of the 3rd Tokugawa shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu (徳川 家光)(1604-1651). The founding of Kiyomizudera apparently began with a revelation in a dream of Buddhist monk Kenshin to "go north and find a crystal spring".

Tourists in rental kimono ascending the steps of the niōmon, Kiyomizudera

To get to Kiyomizudera's grounds, we had to ascend the steep staircase leading up to the niōmon (仁王門), which is the main entrance to the temple. The original structure had been burnt down during the Ōnin War (応仁の乱; 1467-1477). It was rebuilt in the early 16th century; and in 2003, taken apart and refurbished.

So anyway, it's at this spot where I was 'treated' to the sight of lots of tourists in rented kimono. Nothing against that except that...well, gaudy kimono is not my thing. It was also super crowded. I've already complained about how Kiyomizudera has been overrun, so I shall not repeat it here.

There are other buildings such as the Saimon, the Zuigudō, the Okuno-in, and Jojuin (pictures here). But the main highlight of Kiyomizudera the hondō (本堂) and the hondōbutai (本堂舞台), set against the steep cliff.

The hondō

The hondō was built using a traditional Japanese method, and apparently the structure is so firmly supported by the scaffolding of pillars and rails that it is highly earthquake-resistant. It has a yosemune-zikuri roof with a cypress bark thatch. The view in winter is really quite different, when the trees are bare.

View of the hondō and the hondōbutai

The hondōbutai is the main wonder, as the verandah (or stage) is constructed solely of wood, without any nails. The verandah is covered with 410 cypress (hinoki) boards and is supported by 18 zelkova (keyaki) pillars measuring 13m tall. The pillars are apparently made from over 400-year-old zelkova trees.

View of the Otowa Waterfall (right) and the Koyasu Pagoda from the hondōbutai

From the hondōbutai can be seen the Otowa Waterfall (音羽の滝), the crystal spring that Kenshin found, and the Koyasu Pagoda (子安塔), to which a visit is said to bring a safe childbirth.

View of Kyoto from the hondōbutai

The view of Kyoto city is also quite amazing. And it really just brings home to me the fact that Kyoto is actually a pretty flat city! Kyoto Tower is pretty much the tallest structure there.

Kiyomizudera is also a popular autumn viewing spot among Japanese and foreigners alike. Frankly, the views from from the hondōbutai (本堂舞台) is pretty amazing all year round, but it is undisputably best in autumn.

Autumn-clad hillsides, view from the hondōbutai

Autumn foliage at Kiyomizudera

Autumn foliage at Kiyomizudera

Autumn foliage at Kiyomizudera

Autumn foliage around the Sanjūnodō (三重塔)

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More on Elizabeth's Japanese Autumn, November 2016

- I. Yokohama & the Miho Museum - Chinatown (Heichinrou, Yokohama Mazu Temple) ● Yamashita Park ● Zou-no-Hana ● Osanbashi Pier ● Yokohama Red Brick Warehouses ● Miho Museum

- II. Kyoto - Tofukuji ● Kiyomizudera ● Sohonzan Komyoji ● Eikando Zenrinji ● Manshuin Monzeki ● Iwakura Jissoin Monzeki ● Nanzenji, Nanzenin & Tenjuan ● Kitano Tenmangu ● Shugakuin Imperial Villa ● Sento Imperial Palace ● Kyoto Imperial Palace

- III. Tokyo - Tokyo University ● Rikugien ● Tokyo Imperial Palace & the East Gardens ● Kotonoha no Niwa trip to at Shinjuku Gyoen ● Italian at Salvatore Cuomo Bros., XEX Tokyo ● Sushi Masuda ● Nishiazabu Taku (aka Sushi Taku) ● Sushi Nakamura (1st taste of Juyondai) ● Sushi Tokami (1st taste of tossaki) ● molecular gastronomy at Tapas Molecular Bar ● French-Japanese at La Paix, Nihonbashi

- IV: Fuji Five Lakes - Part 1 (Bessho Sasa, revisited) ● Part 2 (Fuji Subaru 5th Station, Motosuko & Koyodai) ● Part 3 (Fujisansaku Park, Motosuko, Shojiko, Saiko, Kawaguchiko)

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