Momijigari with Elizabeth Rose - Nanzenji, Nanzenin & Tenjuan, Kyoto
During the Kyoto leg of our autumn 2016 trip, one of the momijigari spots we visited was Nanzenji, and its sub-temples Nanzenin and Tenjuan.
Nanzenji (南禅寺) is a Zen Buddhist temple of the Rinzai sect. Officially called Zuiryuzan Taiheikokoku Nanzenzenji (瑞龍山 太平興国南禅禅寺), Nanzenji was founded in 1291 by Emperor Kameyama (亀山天皇) who became a Buddhist monk in 1289. The site was formerly an imperial villa, Zenrinjiden (禅林寺殿), built in 1624. The original buildings of Nanzenji were completely destroyed by fire during the Muromachi period, particularly in 1393, 1448 and 1467. Most (if not all) of the current buildings date after the Onin War (1467-1477).
In the 1300s, Nanzenji enjoyed much prestige and influence under Emperor Go-Daigo (後醍醐天皇) (1318-1399) and the third Ashikaga shogun, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (足利 義満) (1368-1394). Apparently, during this time, conflict grew between Nanzenji and Enryakuji, the Tendai monastery on Mt Hiei known for its warrior monks (souhei).
In 1393 and 1447, the main building of Nanzenji was destroyed by fire, but rebuilt soon after. However, it was almost completely destroyed during the Onin War.
During the Edo era, the restoration of Nanzenji was promoted by Ishin Sūden (以心崇伝; 1569–1633), a Zen Rinzai monk who was advisor to the 1st, 2nd and 3rd Tokugawa shoguns. Ishin was also known as Konchi'in Suden (金地院崇伝); and later was granted the honorific title Enshō Honkō Kokushi by Emperor Go-Mizunoo. Under Ishin, the Sanmon, Hojo, the gardens at the Dai-hojo and the sub-temple Konchi'in were constructed.
Nanzenji was largest during the Edo era, thanks to Ishin. But in the Meiji era (1868-1912), about two-thirds of Nanzenji's precincts was confiscated by the Meiji government, and of its 25 sub-temples, only 12 remained.
Nanzenji's 22m tall, two-storey Sanmon (三門) is considered as one of 3 greatest gates in Kyoto. Its name literally means "three door(s)", and supposedly pays homage to the 3 gates of liberation. Or, it may be the Three Mysterious Gates of Linji Yixuan (Rinzai Gigen, to the Japanese), the founder of the Rinzai school (Linji school in China). The Sanmon is also known as the Tenka Ryumon, and was built in 1628 by Tōdō Takatora (藤堂 高虎; 1556-1630) as a memorial to those who died in the 1615 Siege of Osaka.
The Sanmon is the setting for a famous kabuki scene Sanmon Gosan no Kiri (「楼門五三桐」), featuring Ishikawa Goemon (石川 五右衛門; c. 1558-1594), legendary Japanese outlaw who stole and gave to the poor, and was executed for attempting to assassinate Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣 秀吉; 1536-1598).
In Sanmon Gosan no Kiri, Goemon sits on the Sanmon, gazing at the view as he smokes a kiseru. He exclaims:
In reality, the Sanmon didn't exist during Goemon's time, since it was built 30 years after his death.
Past the Sanmon is the Hatto (法堂). The original building (built in 1606) was destroyed by a fire in 1895, and the existing building was built in 1909.
Outside the Hojo is a red brick aqueduct, the Suirokaku (水路閣). It may appear somewhat incongruous because the aqueduct is generally associated with ancient Romans, and are generally not found in the East Asian region. Plus, a Western-style aqueduct on the grounds of a Buddhist temple?
As said, aqueducts are generally associated with the ancient Romans, who built them across the Roman Empire. But the Romans didn't invent the aqueduct. Aqueducts were already in use in civilisations that pre-dated the Roman Empire. By the Etruscans, and the ancient Greeks. Also in India and the Near East, i.e. Egypt, Oman, Persia, Petra in Jordan, etc.
Aqueducts became associated with the ancient Romans because they had set the gold standard for the aqueduct - an engineering standard that remained unsurpassed for thousands of years.
The Suirokaku at Nanzenji was built in 1890, during the Meiji era (1868-1912), which was a time of rapid modernisation and industrialisation of Japan. It designed by a young Japanese engineer, Tanabe Sakuro (田辺朔郎; 1861–1944), and was part of the Lake Biwa Canal (琵琶湖疏水; Biwako Sosui), which was constructed (also during the Meiji era) to transport water and goods between Lake Biwa to Kyoto. Water from the canal powered Japan's first hydroelectric power generator, which supplied Kyoto with electricity from 1895.
The structure of the 93m-long Suirokaku resembles the ancient Roman raised aqueducts, and is considered to be a historic moment for Japanese engineering. However, when the Suirokaku was first proposed, the Kyoto locals protested against its construction, as they felt it would damage the nobility and legacy of Nanzenji and its surrounding precincts.
Today, it has become a historic site that is treated as very much part of Nanzenji's landscape. It is used as a backdrop in Japanese TV dramas, and is popular among the Japanese and foreigners alike. Although electricity is now provided by other means in the present-day, the aqueduct continues to supply Kyoto with water, with water flowing along it at a rate of 2 tonnes per second. The historical value of the Suirokaku is also recognised. It was designated as a Kyoto City Historical Site in 1983, and a National Historic Site in 1996 (alongside other Lake Biwa Canal sites).
We saw a few youngsters (locals and foreigners) in kimono taking pictures around the aqueduct, and it really does look lovely. Couldn't help but think it's the perfect setting for some vintage retro-era scene. Something out of the Taisho or early Meiji period would be just right!
Near the front of the Nanzenji complex is a tearoom that overlooks a garden with a small waterfall - the scene is actually the outside garden of Nanzenji. The tearoom serves green tea and wagashi for a small fee. We didn't drop in for the tea ceremony, however.
Peeked into the Shoin, with its two tokonoma alcoves and treasures. Then, we went down a dim wooden corridor, to the Hōjō (方丈). The Hōjō is a National Treasure of Japan, and comprises of the Dai-hōjō (大方丈) and the Ko-hōjō (小方丈).
The Dai-hōjō was once part of the Kyoto Imperial Palace, which we also visited in this trip (posted here). The building is built in the shinden-zukuri architectural style, and was originally built by Hideyoshi Toyotomi in the Tensho period. In 1611, it was conferred to Nanzenji by Emperor Go-Yozei (後陽成天皇) (1586-1611).
Besides the gilded fusama panels (below), the best known feature of the Dai-hōjō is a karesansui garden called the Toranoko-watashi-no-niwa (虎の子渡しの庭). The garden was designated as a National Place of Scenic Beauty in 1951. The design of the Toranoko-watashi-no-niwa has been attributed to Kobori Enshū (小堀 遠州), who also designed the gardens at Sento Imperial Palace (mentioned in this post).
The trees, moss and stones are grouped together at one corner of the garden, leaving a large open space of raked gravel - a style that is characteristic of famous gardens made after the early Edo period (the 1600s). It was thought that the Toranoko-watashi-no-niwa was designed around 1600.
The garden incorporates the neighbouring Higashiyama mountains as borrowed scenery ("shakkei"), and the stones in the garden are supposed to depict tiger cubs crossing a river - hence the garden's name. As mentioned elsewhere, I had some difficulty imagining such a scene.
The Dai-hōjō is also known for the beautifully painted and gilded fusama panels attributed to eminent Japanese painters from the Kanō school. These fusama panels are also designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan.
The gilded fusama panels (totaling 124!) in the Dai-hōjō are reputedly painted by Kanō Motonobu (1476-1559), Kanō Eitoku (1543-1590) and Kanō Tan'yuu (1602-1674).
Motonobu, Eitoku and Tan'yuu were major painters of the Kanō school, celebrated as the school's "three famous brushes", and each were important in their respective eras. Many works made by these three have since been designated as National Treasures of Japan. Both Eitoku and Tanyu'u also painted the gilded fusama panels at Manshuin Monzeki (posted here).
The Ko-hōjō is also decorated with gilded fusama panels. The most renowned of which is the "Gunko-zu" (群虎図), a group of tiger paintings attributed to Kanō Tan'yuu, in the Toranoma ("Tiger Room"). The group also includes the "Mizu-nomi no tora" (水呑みの虎) fusama screens. Sadly, I don't have photos of them here because photography of them is prohibited.
The Ko-hōjō was also once part of another building - the Fushimi Castle in Fushimi, Kyoto, which used to be the residence of Toyotomi Hideyoshi.
Next to the Ko-hōjō is a sparse karesansui garden, the Nyoshintei (如心庭). The garden is spartan, with uniquely shaped rocks and raked gravel.
In contrast to the dimensions and landscaping of the Toranoko-watashi-no-niwa of the Dai-hōjō, and the gilded interiors of the halls, the Nyoshintei is Zen-like. Spartan and bare, but strangely more intimate than the Toranoko garden.
The gardens at Nanzenji are beautiful examples of a typical Zen monastery garden, with the elevated wooden corridors crisscrossing the landscaped grounds dotted with trees, bushes, moss and rocks.
Beyond the Ko-hōjō is the Rokudō-tei (六道庭), a garden that expresses the Buddhist concept of Rokudō Rinne (六道輪廻), i.e. the six realms/paths of reincarnation.
Under the concept of Rokudō Rinne, it is believed that living beings repeat reincarnation in 6 realms: hell (jigokudo), hungry ghosts (gakido), animals/livestock (chikushodo), Asura (ashurado), human (nindo), and Deva (tendo).
The garden stones arranged in the Rokudō-tei are supposed to symbolise the changeability of ordinary mortals reincarnating in these 6 realms without attaining nirvana.
Beyond the Rokudō-tei is the Kegon-tei (華厳庭), or Kegon-no-niwa (華厳の庭). A small and simple karesansui garden bordered by a bamboo fence called the Nanzenji-gaki (南禅寺垣). The Nanzenji-gaki fence was formerly located on the east side of the Rokudō-tei, but was relocated to the Kegon-tei. Ironically, the fence is more famous than the garden!
Past the Kegon-tei is a little building that looks like a teahouse, called the Kyushin-tei (窮心亭).
Another garden further up is the Ryūgin-tei (龍吟庭). The main stone of the garden is a very large Kurama stone (鞍馬石), a kind of granite from the Kurama area in Kyoto. The pond in the garden is called Kanryu-ike (豢龍池), and various Totsukawa stones (十津川石) are arranged along the pond's shore.
Located to the south of the Hatto is the sub-temple Nanzenin (南禅院), the original site of Emperor Kameyama's imperial villa.
The original building was destroyed during the Onin War (1467-1477) but was rebuilt in 1703 by Keishōin (桂昌院), the mother of the 5th Tokugawa shogun, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi (徳川 綱吉).
Nanzenin's garden is a pond strolling garden (chisen-kaiyu shiki teien) said to be representative of the late Kamakura period (1185-1333). In the garden is a pond, called the Sogenchi (曹源池), which supposedly resembles the shape of a dragon. In the Sogenchi are two islands, Hōrai Island (蓬莱島) and Shinji Island (心字島). (Hōrai Island here is likely a reference to the mytical island of immortality in Chinese legend, Mt. Penglai.)
In the pond, towards the back, is also a cluster of rocks that create a natural waterfall. The sound of the splashing cascade is rather pleasant and relaxing. Also, at the southeastern corner of the garden stands the mausoleum in which Emperor Kameyama is buried.
Spent quite some time just leisurely strolling around. The garden was so tranquil, surrounded by the trees, and by the sound of running water from the little waterfall.
South of the Sanmon is the sub-temple Tenjuan. Like Nanzenin, it is not as crowded as Nanzenji, probably because the coach-bus-tourists either aren't aware of it, or tend to stick to the main areas of Nanzenji. Personally, I think Tenjuan is worth a visit, and the designs of its gardens make a nice, interesting contrast (or comparison) to those in Nanzenji and Nanzenin.
Tenjuan (天授庵) was built in 1337 in commemoration of Daiminkokushi (大明国師), Nanzenji's founder. Tenjuan is mainly known for its 2 gardens, the East Garden in front of the hōjō and the South Garden near the Shoin.
The pathway between the main gate and the hōjō is a series of square stones running through sand and green moss. Apparently, it dates back to 1338, a little after the completion of Tenjuan.
The pattern of diagonally-placed square stones is very much repeated in Tenjuan's East Garden. In fact, it seems to me that uniquely shaped stones, the use of tobi-ishi (stepping stones) and stone pathways are prevalent throughout Tenjuan.
The East Garden (東庭), in front of the hōjō, is a karesansui garden with square stones bordered by moss set in a sea of raked gravel.
The back of the East Garden is planted with maples, which is why it is a popular autumn-viewing spot. Unfortunately for us, it was already past peak autumn, and the maples looked like they'd shed most of their foliage.... I was pretty disappointed.
At the end of the East Garden is a stone path and low bamboo gate that leads to the second garden near the Shoin, the South Garden (書院南庭).
I really liked this part of the grounds, even though it doesn't have the same fame as the East Garden and the South Garden. It was just something about the tobi-ishi pathway cutting through the mossy garden floor, and the beautifully shaped rocks and shrubs, ending with the low, wooden gate and bamboo fencing.
So anyway, after lingering for a bit (and photobombing), I passed through the low gate to enter the South Garden.
The South Garden is a large stroll garden with 2 ponds, and its style apparently epitomises 14th century landscaping in Kyoto. The ponds are filled with koi, and they show up well in the afternoon sun, as the water of the pond is relatively clear. The path through the South Garden is shaded by many maple and cedar trees, and the ponds are crossed by 2 unique bridges.
The garden has 2 unique bridges, a wooden bridge and a stone bridge comprising of tobi-ishi (stepping stones), bordered by a bamboo handrail.
As mentioned above, the use of uniquely shaped stones and tobi-ishi seem to be prevalent in the garden design of Tenjuan. And to me, that probably shows really well in the stone bridge.
Tobi-ishi paths supposedly influence the way a visitor experiences the garden. Walking on the path required the visitor's attention, and forced visitors (if there are more than 1) to go in a line, one after the other. When used in tea gardens, it attempts to influence the teahouse guests to take their time to arrive, and to mentally prepare them for the tea ceremony.
One end of the stone bridge is a little bamboo grove. Under the tall swaying bamboo, the mossy floor was strewn with fallen leaves and acorns. I loved the way the later afternoon light filtered through the bamboo leaves.
Overall, I thought Nanzenji was impressive. It certainly lives up to its fame, with the Toranoko garden and the gilded fusama screens of the hōjō. But personally, I actually enjoyed our time in the gardens of Nanzenin and Tenjuan more. During our visit, there were not many people, and the trees in the garden kind of shielded the place from distracting sounds, making the place quiet but intimate. Great for contemplation and meditation. Or just simply a leisurely stroll to appreciate the foliage, and to take in the power of growing things.
NANZENJI
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| Elizabeth Rose at the Sanmon of Nanzenji |
Nanzenji (南禅寺) is a Zen Buddhist temple of the Rinzai sect. Officially called Zuiryuzan Taiheikokoku Nanzenzenji (瑞龍山 太平興国南禅禅寺), Nanzenji was founded in 1291 by Emperor Kameyama (亀山天皇) who became a Buddhist monk in 1289. The site was formerly an imperial villa, Zenrinjiden (禅林寺殿), built in 1624. The original buildings of Nanzenji were completely destroyed by fire during the Muromachi period, particularly in 1393, 1448 and 1467. Most (if not all) of the current buildings date after the Onin War (1467-1477).
In the 1300s, Nanzenji enjoyed much prestige and influence under Emperor Go-Daigo (後醍醐天皇) (1318-1399) and the third Ashikaga shogun, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (足利 義満) (1368-1394). Apparently, during this time, conflict grew between Nanzenji and Enryakuji, the Tendai monastery on Mt Hiei known for its warrior monks (souhei).
In 1393 and 1447, the main building of Nanzenji was destroyed by fire, but rebuilt soon after. However, it was almost completely destroyed during the Onin War.
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| The Sanmon and the 6m tall stone lantern (right) of Nanzenji |
During the Edo era, the restoration of Nanzenji was promoted by Ishin Sūden (以心崇伝; 1569–1633), a Zen Rinzai monk who was advisor to the 1st, 2nd and 3rd Tokugawa shoguns. Ishin was also known as Konchi'in Suden (金地院崇伝); and later was granted the honorific title Enshō Honkō Kokushi by Emperor Go-Mizunoo. Under Ishin, the Sanmon, Hojo, the gardens at the Dai-hojo and the sub-temple Konchi'in were constructed.
Nanzenji was largest during the Edo era, thanks to Ishin. But in the Meiji era (1868-1912), about two-thirds of Nanzenji's precincts was confiscated by the Meiji government, and of its 25 sub-temples, only 12 remained.
 |
| Sanmon, Nanzenji |
Nanzenji's 22m tall, two-storey Sanmon (三門) is considered as one of 3 greatest gates in Kyoto. Its name literally means "three door(s)", and supposedly pays homage to the 3 gates of liberation. Or, it may be the Three Mysterious Gates of Linji Yixuan (Rinzai Gigen, to the Japanese), the founder of the Rinzai school (Linji school in China). The Sanmon is also known as the Tenka Ryumon, and was built in 1628 by Tōdō Takatora (藤堂 高虎; 1556-1630) as a memorial to those who died in the 1615 Siege of Osaka.
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| Sanmon, Nanzenji |
The Sanmon is the setting for a famous kabuki scene Sanmon Gosan no Kiri (「楼門五三桐」), featuring Ishikawa Goemon (石川 五右衛門; c. 1558-1594), legendary Japanese outlaw who stole and gave to the poor, and was executed for attempting to assassinate Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣 秀吉; 1536-1598).
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| Sanmon, Nanzenji |
In Sanmon Gosan no Kiri, Goemon sits on the Sanmon, gazing at the view as he smokes a kiseru. He exclaims:
「絶景かな、絶景かな。春の宵は値千両とは、小せえ、小せえ。この五右衛門の目からは、値万両、万々両......」
(Loosely translated, it goes: "Superb view, superb view. It's said the evening spring view is worth a thousand ryō, but that's too little, too little. These eyes of Goemon value it at ten thousand ryō......")
In reality, the Sanmon didn't exist during Goemon's time, since it was built 30 years after his death.
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| Hatto, Nanzenji |
Past the Sanmon is the Hatto (法堂). The original building (built in 1606) was destroyed by a fire in 1895, and the existing building was built in 1909.
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| The red bricked Suirokaku at Nanzenji |
Outside the Hojo is a red brick aqueduct, the Suirokaku (水路閣). It may appear somewhat incongruous because the aqueduct is generally associated with ancient Romans, and are generally not found in the East Asian region. Plus, a Western-style aqueduct on the grounds of a Buddhist temple?
 |
| The red bricked Suirokaku at Nanzenji |
Aqueducts became associated with the ancient Romans because they had set the gold standard for the aqueduct - an engineering standard that remained unsurpassed for thousands of years.
The Suirokaku at Nanzenji was built in 1890, during the Meiji era (1868-1912), which was a time of rapid modernisation and industrialisation of Japan. It designed by a young Japanese engineer, Tanabe Sakuro (田辺朔郎; 1861–1944), and was part of the Lake Biwa Canal (琵琶湖疏水; Biwako Sosui), which was constructed (also during the Meiji era) to transport water and goods between Lake Biwa to Kyoto. Water from the canal powered Japan's first hydroelectric power generator, which supplied Kyoto with electricity from 1895.
The structure of the 93m-long Suirokaku resembles the ancient Roman raised aqueducts, and is considered to be a historic moment for Japanese engineering. However, when the Suirokaku was first proposed, the Kyoto locals protested against its construction, as they felt it would damage the nobility and legacy of Nanzenji and its surrounding precincts.
 |
| The red bricked Suirokaku at Nanzenji |
Today, it has become a historic site that is treated as very much part of Nanzenji's landscape. It is used as a backdrop in Japanese TV dramas, and is popular among the Japanese and foreigners alike. Although electricity is now provided by other means in the present-day, the aqueduct continues to supply Kyoto with water, with water flowing along it at a rate of 2 tonnes per second. The historical value of the Suirokaku is also recognised. It was designated as a Kyoto City Historical Site in 1983, and a National Historic Site in 1996 (alongside other Lake Biwa Canal sites).
We saw a few youngsters (locals and foreigners) in kimono taking pictures around the aqueduct, and it really does look lovely. Couldn't help but think it's the perfect setting for some vintage retro-era scene. Something out of the Taisho or early Meiji period would be just right!
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| Tearoom at Nanzenji |
Near the front of the Nanzenji complex is a tearoom that overlooks a garden with a small waterfall - the scene is actually the outside garden of Nanzenji. The tearoom serves green tea and wagashi for a small fee. We didn't drop in for the tea ceremony, however.
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| Shoin, Nanzenji |
Peeked into the Shoin, with its two tokonoma alcoves and treasures. Then, we went down a dim wooden corridor, to the Hōjō (方丈). The Hōjō is a National Treasure of Japan, and comprises of the Dai-hōjō (大方丈) and the Ko-hōjō (小方丈).
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| Dai-hōjō, Nanzenji |
The Dai-hōjō was once part of the Kyoto Imperial Palace, which we also visited in this trip (posted here). The building is built in the shinden-zukuri architectural style, and was originally built by Hideyoshi Toyotomi in the Tensho period. In 1611, it was conferred to Nanzenji by Emperor Go-Yozei (後陽成天皇) (1586-1611).
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| Toranoko-watashi-no-niwa, Dai-hōjō, Nanzenji |
Besides the gilded fusama panels (below), the best known feature of the Dai-hōjō is a karesansui garden called the Toranoko-watashi-no-niwa (虎の子渡しの庭). The garden was designated as a National Place of Scenic Beauty in 1951. The design of the Toranoko-watashi-no-niwa has been attributed to Kobori Enshū (小堀 遠州), who also designed the gardens at Sento Imperial Palace (mentioned in this post).
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| Toranoko-watashi-no-niwa, view from the side |
The trees, moss and stones are grouped together at one corner of the garden, leaving a large open space of raked gravel - a style that is characteristic of famous gardens made after the early Edo period (the 1600s). It was thought that the Toranoko-watashi-no-niwa was designed around 1600.
The garden incorporates the neighbouring Higashiyama mountains as borrowed scenery ("shakkei"), and the stones in the garden are supposed to depict tiger cubs crossing a river - hence the garden's name. As mentioned elsewhere, I had some difficulty imagining such a scene.
 |
| Gilded fusama panels of the Dai-hōjō in Nanzenji. |
The Dai-hōjō is also known for the beautifully painted and gilded fusama panels attributed to eminent Japanese painters from the Kanō school. These fusama panels are also designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan.
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| Gilded fusama panels of the Dai-hōjō in Nanzenji. |
The gilded fusama panels (totaling 124!) in the Dai-hōjō are reputedly painted by Kanō Motonobu (1476-1559), Kanō Eitoku (1543-1590) and Kanō Tan'yuu (1602-1674).
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| Gilded fusama panels of the Dai-hōjō in Nanzenji. |
Motonobu, Eitoku and Tan'yuu were major painters of the Kanō school, celebrated as the school's "three famous brushes", and each were important in their respective eras. Many works made by these three have since been designated as National Treasures of Japan. Both Eitoku and Tanyu'u also painted the gilded fusama panels at Manshuin Monzeki (posted here).
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| Gilded fusama panels of the Ko-hōjō in Nanzenji. |
The Ko-hōjō is also decorated with gilded fusama panels. The most renowned of which is the "Gunko-zu" (群虎図), a group of tiger paintings attributed to Kanō Tan'yuu, in the Toranoma ("Tiger Room"). The group also includes the "Mizu-nomi no tora" (水呑みの虎) fusama screens. Sadly, I don't have photos of them here because photography of them is prohibited.
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| Gilded fusama panels of the Dai-hōjō in Nanzenji. |
The Ko-hōjō was also once part of another building - the Fushimi Castle in Fushimi, Kyoto, which used to be the residence of Toyotomi Hideyoshi.
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| Nyoshintei, Ko-hōjō, Nanzenji |
Next to the Ko-hōjō is a sparse karesansui garden, the Nyoshintei (如心庭). The garden is spartan, with uniquely shaped rocks and raked gravel.
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| Nyoshintei, Ko-hōjō, Nanzenji |
In contrast to the dimensions and landscaping of the Toranoko-watashi-no-niwa of the Dai-hōjō, and the gilded interiors of the halls, the Nyoshintei is Zen-like. Spartan and bare, but strangely more intimate than the Toranoko garden.
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| Rokudō-tei, Nanzenji |
The gardens at Nanzenji are beautiful examples of a typical Zen monastery garden, with the elevated wooden corridors crisscrossing the landscaped grounds dotted with trees, bushes, moss and rocks.
 |
| Rokudō-tei, Nanzenji |
Beyond the Ko-hōjō is the Rokudō-tei (六道庭), a garden that expresses the Buddhist concept of Rokudō Rinne (六道輪廻), i.e. the six realms/paths of reincarnation.
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| Some lovely kōyō at the Rokudō-tei, Nanzenji |
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| Rokudō-tei, Nanzenji |
Under the concept of Rokudō Rinne, it is believed that living beings repeat reincarnation in 6 realms: hell (jigokudo), hungry ghosts (gakido), animals/livestock (chikushodo), Asura (ashurado), human (nindo), and Deva (tendo).
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| Rokudō-tei, Nanzenji |
The garden stones arranged in the Rokudō-tei are supposed to symbolise the changeability of ordinary mortals reincarnating in these 6 realms without attaining nirvana.
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| Kegon-tei, Nanzenji. I loved the interplay of light and shadow cast by the autumn foliage spilling over the Nanzanji-gaki fence, and the fallen leaves scattered all over the carefully raked gravel. |
Beyond the Rokudō-tei is the Kegon-tei (華厳庭), or Kegon-no-niwa (華厳の庭). A small and simple karesansui garden bordered by a bamboo fence called the Nanzenji-gaki (南禅寺垣). The Nanzenji-gaki fence was formerly located on the east side of the Rokudō-tei, but was relocated to the Kegon-tei. Ironically, the fence is more famous than the garden!
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| Kyushin-tei, Nanzenji |
Past the Kegon-tei is a little building that looks like a teahouse, called the Kyushin-tei (窮心亭).
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| Ryūgin-tei, with the Kurama stone in the foreground |
Another garden further up is the Ryūgin-tei (龍吟庭). The main stone of the garden is a very large Kurama stone (鞍馬石), a kind of granite from the Kurama area in Kyoto. The pond in the garden is called Kanryu-ike (豢龍池), and various Totsukawa stones (十津川石) are arranged along the pond's shore.
NANZENIN
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| Hōjō, Nanzenin |
The original building was destroyed during the Onin War (1467-1477) but was rebuilt in 1703 by Keishōin (桂昌院), the mother of the 5th Tokugawa shogun, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi (徳川 綱吉).
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| The Sogenchi pond and, in the middle, Hōrai island and Shinji island, Nanzenin. |
Nanzenin's garden is a pond strolling garden (chisen-kaiyu shiki teien) said to be representative of the late Kamakura period (1185-1333). In the garden is a pond, called the Sogenchi (曹源池), which supposedly resembles the shape of a dragon. In the Sogenchi are two islands, Hōrai Island (蓬莱島) and Shinji Island (心字島). (Hōrai Island here is likely a reference to the mytical island of immortality in Chinese legend, Mt. Penglai.)
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| A little waterfall in the gardens of Nanzenin. |
In the pond, towards the back, is also a cluster of rocks that create a natural waterfall. The sound of the splashing cascade is rather pleasant and relaxing. Also, at the southeastern corner of the garden stands the mausoleum in which Emperor Kameyama is buried.
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| Nanzenin gardens |
Spent quite some time just leisurely strolling around. The garden was so tranquil, surrounded by the trees, and by the sound of running water from the little waterfall.
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| Nanzenin gardens |
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| Nanzenin gardens |
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| Nanzenin gardens |
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| Nanzenin gardens |
TENJUAN
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| Tenjuan |
Tenjuan (天授庵) was built in 1337 in commemoration of Daiminkokushi (大明国師), Nanzenji's founder. Tenjuan is mainly known for its 2 gardens, the East Garden in front of the hōjō and the South Garden near the Shoin.
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| Tenjuan |
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| Tenjuan |
The pathway between the main gate and the hōjō is a series of square stones running through sand and green moss. Apparently, it dates back to 1338, a little after the completion of Tenjuan.
The pattern of diagonally-placed square stones is very much repeated in Tenjuan's East Garden. In fact, it seems to me that uniquely shaped stones, the use of tobi-ishi (stepping stones) and stone pathways are prevalent throughout Tenjuan.
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| The East Garden, Tenjuan |
The East Garden (東庭), in front of the hōjō, is a karesansui garden with square stones bordered by moss set in a sea of raked gravel.
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| The East Garden, Tenjuan |
The back of the East Garden is planted with maples, which is why it is a popular autumn-viewing spot. Unfortunately for us, it was already past peak autumn, and the maples looked like they'd shed most of their foliage.... I was pretty disappointed.
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| The stone-paved pathway to the South Garden, bordered by moss and shrubs. The sun was going downward when I got here, and I liked the way the evening light and shadow slanted across the pathway and the moss. |
At the end of the East Garden is a stone path and low bamboo gate that leads to the second garden near the Shoin, the South Garden (書院南庭).
I really liked this part of the grounds, even though it doesn't have the same fame as the East Garden and the South Garden. It was just something about the tobi-ishi pathway cutting through the mossy garden floor, and the beautifully shaped rocks and shrubs, ending with the low, wooden gate and bamboo fencing.
So anyway, after lingering for a bit (and photobombing), I passed through the low gate to enter the South Garden.
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| The South Garden (南庭), Tenjuan |
The South Garden is a large stroll garden with 2 ponds, and its style apparently epitomises 14th century landscaping in Kyoto. The ponds are filled with koi, and they show up well in the afternoon sun, as the water of the pond is relatively clear. The path through the South Garden is shaded by many maple and cedar trees, and the ponds are crossed by 2 unique bridges.
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| The wooden bridge at the South Garden (南庭), Tenjuan |
The garden has 2 unique bridges, a wooden bridge and a stone bridge comprising of tobi-ishi (stepping stones), bordered by a bamboo handrail.
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| The stone bridge at the South Garden (南庭), Tenjuan. I love how the stones zigzag across the pond, which is so clear it mirrors the overarching trees and sky. |
As mentioned above, the use of uniquely shaped stones and tobi-ishi seem to be prevalent in the garden design of Tenjuan. And to me, that probably shows really well in the stone bridge.
Tobi-ishi paths supposedly influence the way a visitor experiences the garden. Walking on the path required the visitor's attention, and forced visitors (if there are more than 1) to go in a line, one after the other. When used in tea gardens, it attempts to influence the teahouse guests to take their time to arrive, and to mentally prepare them for the tea ceremony.
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| A little bamboo grove at Tenjuan, Nanzenji |
One end of the stone bridge is a little bamboo grove. Under the tall swaying bamboo, the mossy floor was strewn with fallen leaves and acorns. I loved the way the later afternoon light filtered through the bamboo leaves.
Overall, I thought Nanzenji was impressive. It certainly lives up to its fame, with the Toranoko garden and the gilded fusama screens of the hōjō. But personally, I actually enjoyed our time in the gardens of Nanzenin and Tenjuan more. During our visit, there were not many people, and the trees in the garden kind of shielded the place from distracting sounds, making the place quiet but intimate. Great for contemplation and meditation. Or just simply a leisurely stroll to appreciate the foliage, and to take in the power of growing things.
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More on Elizabeth's Japanese Autumn, November 2016
- I. Yokohama & the Miho Museum - Chinatown
(Heichinrou, Yokohama Mazu Temple) ● Yamashita Park ● Zou-no-Hana ●
Osanbashi Pier ● Yokohama Red Brick Warehouses ● Miho Museum
- II. Kyoto - Tofukuji ● Kiyomizudera ● Sohonzan Komyoji ● Eikando Zenrinji ● Manshuin Monzeki ● Iwakura Jissoin Monzeki ● Nanzenji, Nanzenin & Tenjuan ● Kitano Tenmangu ● Shugakuin Imperial Villa ● Sento Imperial Palace ● Kyoto Imperial Palace
- III. Tokyo - Tokyo University ● Rikugien ● Tokyo Imperial Palace & the East Gardens ● Kotonoha no Niwa trip to at Shinjuku Gyoen ● Italian at Salvatore Cuomo Bros., XEX Tokyo ● Sushi Masuda ● Nishiazabu Taku (aka Sushi Taku) ● Sushi Nakamura (1st taste of Juyondai) ● Sushi Tokami (1st taste of tossaki) ● molecular gastronomy at Tapas Molecular Bar ● French-Japanese at La Paix, Nihonbashi
- IV: Fuji Five Lakes - Part 1 (Bessho Sasa, revisited) ● Part 2 (Fuji Subaru 5th Station, Motosuko & Koyodai) ● Part 3 (Fujisansaku Park, Motosuko, Shojiko, Saiko, Kawaguchiko)
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