Momijigari with Elizabeth Rose - Iwakura Jissoin, Kyoto

Autumn foliage at Jissoin

After our visit to Manshuin Monzeki during our Kyoto trip in autumn 2016, we stopped by Jissoin (実相院), another monzeki temple that is located in Iwakura, northeast of Kyoto, at the foot of Mt Hiei.

As a monzeki temple, Jissoin has also been called Iwakura Jissoin Monzeki, Iwakura Monzeki, and Iwakura Goten ("goten" means palace). Successive generations of Jissoin's head priests have been related to the Imperial family.

Autumn foliage at Jissoin

It was founded in 1229 by Buddhist priest Seiki (静基僧正). Formerly located near the Kyoto Imperial Palace (which we also visited this trip), it was relocated to its present site during the Onin War (1467-1477) in order to avoid the war's turbulence.

Entrance to Jissoin

In the late Muromachi period (1336-1573), many temples had been destroyed due to the civil wars fought during this period. Jissoin was later reconstructed by Furuichi Taneko (古市胤子; 1583-1658), a consort of Emperor Go-Yozei (後陽成天皇; reigned 1586-1611), with the assistance of the 3rd Tokugawa shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu (徳川家光; 1604-1651).

The buildings of Jissoin are said to consist of the front gate of the Shikyakumon (四脚門), the Okurumayose (御車寄), and part of the Kakyuden (客殿), which were formerly part of the the Jyushumon-in (秋門院) at the Omiya Palace. These structures were granted to Jissoin during the time when Jissoin's head priest was Gishu Hoshin'no (義周法親王).

The pond garden at Jissoin

Jissoin has 2 gardens - a stroll garden with a pond (chisen-kaiyu-shiki-teien) and a karesansui garden. As always I love pond gardens with mossy floors and stepping stone paths. Again, a pity that peak autumn has already passed this place, because I can see the many maples in the back of the garden.... In peak foliage, the foliage would be absolutely beautiful when contrasted with the moss!

The karesansui garden at Jissoin

The karesansui garden at Jissoin is a late karesansui garden - I read somewhere (can't find it now...) that the garden was reformed in/around 2013.

As always, I have some trouble interpreting what the garden represents. To me, the garden looks like waves lapping one some islands in the sea. I suppose I'll just have to sit and think about it more....

The karesansui garden at Jissoin

It's so obvious why Jissoin's gardens are popular in autumn. At the karesansui garden, there is a whole line of maples (still in autumn finery!) lining the side of the garden, and beyond the garden wall is the view of distant mountains (the use of shakkei again).

The Takinoma at Iwakura Jissoin

Jissoin is also known for a particular view in the Takinoma (滝の間; literally "waterfall room"). The highly lacquered floor panels reflect the colours of the seasons seen through the window, thus changing with the seasons - and earning itself the endearments the "Momiji Floor" (「床もみじ」) in the autumn, and the "Green Floor" (「床みどり」) in the summer.

Jissoin's fusama panels

We also enjoyed looking at the fusama panels which were painted by the Kano school artists, which Jissoin is also known for. It seems so obvious that the Kano school was highly favoured by the Japanese aristocracy, and have pretty much set the standard for Japanese paintings for centuries to come...

Jissoin's fusama panels

Jissoin's fusama panels

Jissoin's fusama panels

It is a pity, however, that the condition of the fusama panels at Jissoin and Manshuin are not very good, especially in relation to those at Nanzenji which we also visited on this trip. But I suppose the time for their conservation has not come round yet. I hope they do it quickly and soon because it would be a great pity to lose these!

Autumn foliage, Iwakura Jissoin, Kyoto

Autumn foliage, Iwakura Jissoin, Kyoto

Jissoin is a little off the usual tourist-beaten track, so no maddening, pushy coach-bus tourists. It was relatively peaceful and quiet. But overall, the autumn foliage is very modest. Lovely, just not mind-blowing, unlike many other places in Kyoto. Of course, it is difficult to compare against Eikando, Nanzenji, Tofukuji and Kiyomizudera, but those spots have their issues too (crowds, pushy tourists).

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More on Elizabeth's Japanese Autumn, November 2016

- I. Yokohama & the Miho Museum - Chinatown (Heichinrou, Yokohama Mazu Temple) ● Yamashita Park ● Zou-no-Hana ● Osanbashi Pier ● Yokohama Red Brick Warehouses ● Miho Museum

- II. Kyoto - Tofukuji ● Kiyomizudera ● Sohonzan Komyoji ● Eikando Zenrinji ● Manshuin Monzeki ● Iwakura Jissoin Monzeki ● Nanzenji, Nanzenin & Tenjuan ● Kitano Tenmangu ● Shugakuin Imperial Villa ● Sento Imperial Palace ● Kyoto Imperial Palace

- III. Tokyo - Tokyo University ● Rikugien ● Tokyo Imperial Palace & the East Gardens ● Kotonoha no Niwa trip to at Shinjuku Gyoen ● Italian at Salvatore Cuomo Bros., XEX Tokyo ● Sushi Masuda ● Nishiazabu Taku (aka Sushi Taku) ● Sushi Nakamura (1st taste of Juyondai) ● Sushi Tokami (1st taste of tossaki) ● molecular gastronomy at Tapas Molecular Bar ● French-Japanese at La Paix, Nihonbashi

- IV: Fuji Five Lakes - Part 1 (Bessho Sasa, revisited) ● Part 2 (Fuji Subaru 5th Station, Motosuko & Koyodai) ● Part 3 (Fujisansaku Park, Motosuko, Shojiko, Saiko, Kawaguchiko)

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