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| Eikando Zenrinji, Kyoto |
During
the Kyoto leg of this autumn 2016 trip, we visited Eikandō Zenrinji twice - first during the fall evening illumination, and the second time during the day, before sundown. Eikandō has been nicknamed "Eikandō in Maple Leaves" because of the many maples on its grounds, and I can totally see why; the autumn foliage here is very beautiful, both during daytime and during evening illumination.
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| View of the autumn foliage from outside Eikandō |
The autumn foliage of the temple grounds can also be seen from the outside of the temple, over the walls. (And these views are free. LOL)
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| View of the autumn foliage from outside Eikandō |
Eikandō Zenrinji (永観堂禅林寺) is the head temple of the Jōdo Seizan Zenrinji sect. It first began in 853, Buddhist monk Shinshō (真紹; 797–873) acquired land belonging to Japanese court noble Fujiwara no Sekio for the purpose of founding a temple. Shinshō was a disciple of Kōbō-Daishi (弘法大師; 774-835), the Japanese monk and scholar who founded Shingon Buddhism.
In 863, Emperor Seiwa (清和天皇; reigned 858-876) approved the founding of the temple and granted it the name "Zenrinji", which means "temple in a calm grove". (Trivia: Emperor Seiwa's grandson, Minamoto no Tsunemoto (源 經基; 894-961), was the progenitor of the Seiwa Genji branch of the Minamoto clan.)
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| Fall foliage around the Kakujudai, during the day |
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| Fall foliage around the Kakujudai, during evening illumination |
Its name later became Eikandō after its 7th head priest Yōkan (永観; 1033-1111) who was also commonly known as "Eikan". During this time, Eikandō was a Shingon Buddhist temple but also taught the Jōdo Buddhism teachings. In 1224 or later, from its 12th head priest, Jōhen (1166-1224), Eikandō slowly became a Jōdo Buddhist temple.
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| View of the Hōjō-ike during the day |
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| View of the Hōjō-ike during autumn illumination |
Eikandō prospered until the Ōnin War (応仁の乱; 1467-1477. During the Ōnin War, Eikando was completely destroyed (lijke so many other temples in Kyoto). It remained in ruins until around 1472. Subsequent chief priests devoted themselves to its restoration, and the temple was finally fully reconstructed by the beginning of the 16th century.
Eikandō again fell into ruin during the Meiji era (1868-1912), as the policy of the Meiji government had been to promote Shintoism as Japan's state religion. This policy resulted in the neglect of Buddhism and the destruction (or confiscation) of many temples and Buddhist statues in Japan.
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| The Goedō (Founder's Hall) which enshrines Hōnen, founder of the Jodo sect. |
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| Pond garden in one of the (many) halls |
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| Pond garden in one of the (many) halls |
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| The stairway from the Amidadō during the day |
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| The stairway from the Amidadō during autumn illumination |
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| The stairway to the Amidadō during autumn illumination |
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| View of the Hōjō-ike, Bentensha and Tahōtō Pagoda during the day |
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| View of the Hōjō-ike, Bentensha and Tahōtō Pagoda during autumn illumination |
The buildings, and most especially the foliage, take on very different
looks under daylight, and under illumination in the night. It was quite
difficult for me to say which I preferred.
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| Autumn foliage at Eikandō |
The fall foliage at Eikandō is truly magnificent. It was a little
past peak autumn, but everywhere we turned, the maples were clad in
brilliant autumn foliage.
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| Autumn foliage at Eikandō, during the day |
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| Autumn foliage at Eikandō during the day |
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| Autumn foliage at Eikandō, in the fading evening light |
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| Autumn foliage at Eikandō during autumn illumination |
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| Autumn foliage at Eikandō during autumn illumination |
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| Autumn foliage at Eikandō during autumn illumination |
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| Autumn foliage at Eikandō during autumn illumination |
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| Autumn foliage at Eikandō during autumn illumination |
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| Autumn foliage at Eikandō during autumn illumination |
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| Autumn foliage at Eikandō during autumn illumination |
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| Autumn foliage at Eikandō during autumn illumination |
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| Autumn foliage at Eikandō during autumn illumination |
Overall, I gotta say, Eikandō really does live up to its nickname
"Eikandō in Maple Leaves". And it's clear why it is such a popular
autumn-viewing spot, both during the day and during the evening
illumination. It's too tough for me to decide which I preferred, whether daytime viewing or evening viewing. Both have their distinctive features.
As lovely as the evening illumination
was, I rather disliked how crowded it was. (Not as bad as Kiyomizudera,
thank heavens.) It was not as crowded during our day-time visit, as we visited close to closing time (about 1 to 1.5 hours before). Hubby and I had read that it is also quite crowded during the day, but
that the crowds thin out close to closing time.
*******
More on Elizabeth's Japanese Autumn 2016
Chinatown
(Heichinrou, Yokohama Mazu Temple) ● Yamashita Park ● Zou-no-Hana ●
Osanbashi Pier ● Yokohama Red Brick Warehouses ● Miho Museum
- IV: Fuji Five Lakes -
Part 1 (Bessho Sasa, revisited) ●
Part 2 (Fuji Subaru 5th Station, Motosuko & Koyodai) ●
Part 3 (Fujisansaku Park, Motosuko, Shojiko, Saiko, Kawaguchiko)
*******
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