Momijigari with Elizabeth Rose - Tofukuji, Kyoto

Elizabeth Rose at Tōfukuji, Kyoto

Our first momijigari spot in the Kyoto leg of our autumn 2016 trip was Rinzai Zen Buddhist temple Tōfukuji (東福寺), a very popular and beautiful autumn spot in Higashiyama, Kyoto.

Maples outside Tōfukuji, Kyoto

Tōfukuji was founded in 1236 by sesshō Kujō Michiie (九条 道家; 1193-1252), the father of the 4th Kamakura shogun, Kujō Yoritsune (九条 頼経; 1218-1256). Michiie appointed its founding priest, Japanese Buddhist monk Enni Ben'en (圓爾辯圓; 1202-1280). Enni studied Rinzai Buddhism under prominent Chinese monk Wuzhun Shifan (無準師範; 1178-1249).

Maples outside Tōfukuji, Kyoto

One of the 5 Kyoto temples of the Five Mountain System (五山十刹制度), Tōfukuji's name is a combination of Tōdaiji (東大寺) and Kōfukuji (興福寺) in Nara. Both temples have long been associated with the Fujiwara clan, to which the Kujō family belonged (as a branch family). We have visited both Tōdaiji and Kōfukuji back in December 2014 and I had been super awed by the daibutsuden at Tōdaiji).

View of the Tsūtenkyō, Tōfukuji

It was relatively crowded with local and foreign tourists because Tōfukuji is a popular autumn spot. At peak autumn, the views from the Tsūtenkyō (通天橋), Gaunkyō (臥雲橋), and Engetsukyō (偃月橋) are popular because the valley below is filled with maples. Unfortunately, we visited somewhat past peak, so most of the trees in the valley below had already shed their leaves. Nevertheless, it was still more beautiful than when we first saw it in winter, in late December 2012.

Autumn foliage at Tōfukuji, Kyoto

Still, the grounds of Tōfukuji are covered with maples, so there was no shortage of autumn foliage to admire. There were several trees that still were still clad with vivid autumn foliage. Apparently, some of the maples at Tōfukuji are descended from the original maple that came with Enni from Song dynasty China.

Autumn foliage at Tōfukuji, Kyoto

On the way to the Tsūtenkyō, we passed through a grove of maples, and it was quite a beautiful sight because the mossy ground was covered with autumn leaves, and the trees still had on some autumn foliage. I think the leaves on the ground were newly fallen because they were still in vivid shades of red, orange and yellow.

Elizabeth Rose at Tōfukuji, Kyoto

It wasn't that easy to take Elizabeth out for a shoot - there were just too many people walking along the various paths. But I did manage to find a less crowded corner of the garden, and just decided to "park" myself there and take some shots.

View from the Tsūtenkyō, towards the Gaunkyō, Tōfukuji, Kyoto

The view of the maples from the Tsūtenkyō was also quite beautiful, even though it was already past peak autumn. From the Tsūtenkyō is a panoramic view of the 2,000-odd maples in the valley below.

Bit of a pity I didn't manage to take a picture of Elizabeth from the Tsūtenkyō, overlooking the maples. The lighting was not conducive. Plus there was some jostling too from the crowds, and I was afraid of getting jostled and dropping her.

The karesansui garden at the Kaisandō, Tōfukuji

We also visited the Kaisandō (開山堂), which has a karesansui garden on one side and a pond garden on the other. The gardens were said to have been reconstructed sometime in the Edo era (1603-1867). The karesansui garden was an austere gravel garden, with a checkerboard pattern.

The pond garden at the Kaisandō, Tōfukuji

The Kaisandō pond garden is very different- lush and green, with lots of stones, moss, plants, and a pond.

There are other lovely gardens at Tōfukuji. I'm not entirely certain why we skipped over (missed?) the rock garden at Ryoginan-tōtei, and the 4 gardens at the Hōjō, which had been recreated by Shigemori Mirei (重森 三玲; 1896-1975) in the late 1930s. Possibly I just wanted to skip out on the crowds...and make our way to Kiyomizudera, our 2nd momijigari spot for the day. 

The pond garden at the Kaisandō, Tōfukuji

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More on Elizabeth's Japanese Autumn, November 2016

- I. Yokohama & the Miho Museum - Chinatown (Heichinrou, Yokohama Mazu Temple) ● Yamashita Park ● Zou-no-Hana ● Osanbashi Pier ● Yokohama Red Brick Warehouses ● Miho Museum

- II. Kyoto - Tofukuji ● Kiyomizudera ● Sohonzan Komyoji ● Eikando Zenrinji ● Manshuin Monzeki ● Iwakura Jissoin Monzeki ● Nanzenji, Nanzenin & Tenjuan ● Kitano Tenmangu ● Shugakuin Imperial Villa ● Sento Imperial Palace ● Kyoto Imperial Palace

- III. Tokyo - Tokyo University ● Rikugien ● Tokyo Imperial Palace & the East Gardens ● Kotonoha no Niwa trip to at Shinjuku Gyoen ● Italian at Salvatore Cuomo Bros., XEX Tokyo ● Sushi Masuda ● Nishiazabu Taku (aka Sushi Taku) ● Sushi Nakamura (1st taste of Juyondai) ● Sushi Tokami (1st taste of tossaki) ● molecular gastronomy at Tapas Molecular Bar ● French-Japanese at La Paix, Nihonbashi

- IV: Fuji Five Lakes - Part 1 (Bessho Sasa, revisited) ● Part 2 (Fuji Subaru 5th Station, Motosuko & Koyodai) ● Part 3 (Fujisansaku Park, Motosuko, Shojiko, Saiko, Kawaguchiko)

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