An English Summer with Danbo #3/4 - Oxford
(This post is Part 3 of 4, An English Summer with Danbo, June~July 2014.)
Main point of our 2014 UK trip was really Oxford, where we hung out with Hubby's best buddy, DT, who was there for his postgraduate studies.
Mostly spent our time hanging out at his flat in Norham Gardens (Teddy Hall's postgrad housing) and just, well, chatting up a storm, helping him pack, sort out stuff to send bring back for him, and helping him diminish his food provisions. It was all pretty fun actually. In terms of food, we ate well.
Sometimes cooking simple dishes in a tiny student flat kitchen with good buddies beats eating at a Michelin starred restaurant. In any case, we also got out to eat a few times at 2 Oxford food establishments Browns and Quod, and on our last day, trying the Spanish tapas at Al Andalus.
Knowing how I love my coffee, DT took us to Turl Street Kitchen, one of the establishments about town. DT mentioned that the place uses ethically-sourced produce and apparently grew out of a university charity.
TSK is located along Turl Street, which is apparently a historic street (locally called "The Turl") that got its name from a twirling gate that had been a postern (a secondary gate) in the city wall.
DT first took us to the Bridge of Sighs, located at New College Lane Its actual name is Hertford Bridge, but it is so-nicknamed because of its supposed similarity with the Bridge of Sighs in Venice - which it also actually does not resemble. (There is also another Bridge of Sighs in Cambridge, at St John's College. Also so-named after the one in Venice, but also bearing no resemblance.)
We then pop by the Bodleian Library, one of the oldest libraries in Europe, and the 2nd largest library in Britain. The current Library can be dated back to 1602. But apprently its roots can be traced back to the 14th century, founded under the will of Thomas Cobham, the Bishop of Worcester.
Just before we entered the Divinity School building (where the Radcliffe Camera tour begins), we pass the Schools Quadrangle and the Tower of the Five Orders. The Schools Quadrangle was built between 1613 and 1619. The Tower is so-named because it has columns of the 5 orders of classical architecture (Tuscan, Doric, Ionic, Corinthian and Composite).
The Divinity School is a medieval building dating back to 1427-1483, and was built for Oxford for the study of theology. The building and room were constructed in the Perpendicular Gothic style, and the ceiling has exquisite pendant fan vaulting that was designed in the 1480s by English gothic architect William Orchard. So beautiful! I think I developed a crick in my neck because I couldn't stop looking up.
From the Divinity School, we were taken on a tour to, first, Duke Humfrey's Library, the Bodleian's oldest reading room. The Libary was named after the 1st Duke of Gloucester, Humphrey of Lancaster, who was a younger son of King Henry IV. When he died, he donated his collection of 281 manuscripts to Oxford University.
During the tour, we were also taken inside Radcliffe Camera. (Photography in there is prohibited, sadly.) The Radcliffe Camera became part of the Bodleian Libraries around 1860, when the library needed more space. The building was built in 1737-1749 and was designed in the neo-classical architectural style by James Gibbs (1682-1754), one of Britain's most influential architectures. It is considered to be one of England's earliest examples of a circular library.
Apparently, Tolkien had remarked that Radcliffe Camera resembled Sauron's temple to Morgoth on Numenor. And speaking of Tolkien, he was a constant visitor to the Bodleian Libraries, as were the other Inklings. And the Bodleian possess some of Tolkien's original LOTR manuscripts, and CS Lewis' original Narnia manuscripts! (Sorry, nerd moment.)
After the Bodleian, we head to Christ Church - which I later learned produced the most British PMs over any other Oxbridge college. (13 British PMs.)
For an idyllic-looking college, its founding seemed quite fraught with political intrigue. Christ Church was originally founded as Cardinal College in 1525 by Thomas Wolsey (c. 1473-1530), Lord Chancellor of England and Cardinal Archbishop of York. Around this time, Wolsey was the most powerful man in England, save for King Henry VIII himself. Wolsey dissolved the priory of St Frideswide, Wallingford Priory, and various other priories. Using the lands and funds from their dissolution, he founded Cardinal College and commenced construction.
But as we all know, fortune during the reign of Henry VIII was most fickle. Wolsey fell from grace in 1529 because he failed to obtain an annulment of the marriage of Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon. (So that Henry VIII could marry Anne Boleyn.) He died in 1530, and his property was escheated. Then, Henry VIII suppressed Cardinal College in 1531, and re-founded it in 1532 as King Henry VIII's College.
Then in 1546, Henry VIII re-founded the college as Christ Church. At the time, he had broken from the Roman Catholic Church in Rome, and dissolved many monasteries in England. The re-founding of the college was part of the reorganisation of the Church of England. Henry VIII also founded Trinity College in Cambridge in the same year. (We also visited Trinity College in Cambridge during this trip.)
Can't miss the staircase to the Great Hall. The pendant vaulted ceiling is pretty amazing. And apparently, the staircase was used as a set for the Harry Potter films.
So we are at the Great Hall which was what the dining hall in the Harry Potter films were modelled on. The Great Hall was built in 1592. The portraits hanging on the walls of the Hall are famous Christ Church attendees, of which 13 are British PMs.
Christ Church Cathedral serves a dual role, that is said to be unique in the Church of England - it is the cathedral of the diocese of Oxford, and the college chapel of Christ Church. The cathedral was originally the church of the priory of St Frideswide, which had been dissolved by Wolsey in 1522.
The Cathedral choir dates back to 1526, and has included many notable organists, beginning with the 16th century composer John Traverner (the cathedral's first organist), and including Sir Thomas Armstrong.
The vaulted ceiling was constructed in 1500 by William Orchard (who also did the ceiling of the Divinity School, above). From 12 stone lanterns, the ribs fan outwards and at the centre are small interconnecting lierne ribs that form 8-pointed stars.
The altar is located at the east end of the Cathedral. Behind the altar is a carved ornamental screen (reredos) which depicts Christ on the cross, St Michael, St Stephen, the Virgin Mary, St John, St Augustine of Hippo and St Gabriel. The reredos was designed by G.F. Bodley in 1881. Above the altar and reredos is a small but beautiful 10-part stained glass rose window.
After Christ Church, we asked DT to show us around St Edmund Hall, his college.
It's not clear when St Edmund Hall was established - usually it's been pegged at 1236, but its name first appeared in 1317 (in a lease agreement). It was named after St Edmund of Abingdon, the first known Oxford Master of Arts and first Oxford-educated Archbishop of Canterbury.
But in any case, St Edmund Hall was one of the ancient medieval halls that laid the foundation of Oxford University (called Aularian houses), which preceded the first colleges. It is now Oxford's only surviving medieval hall, and attained college status in 1957.
At the front quadrangle is the porter's lodge, the Old Dining Hall, the college bar and buttery and the Chapel and Old Library. In the centre is a medieval well, where St Edmund was said to have drawn water.
DT took us to the middle common room. And there we meet Sebastian, St Edmund Hall's mascot teddy bear! (^.^) St Edmund Hall is colloquially called Teddy Hall. And I am not sure if it's because of the life-sized Sebastian....
Also explored the college library, which is housed in the 12th century church of St Peter-in-the-East (deconsecrated) since in the 1970s. Apparently the still-consecrated crypt that lies below sits on pre-Norman foundations.
DT was happily proclaiming that Teddy Hall has its own cemetery. He was referring to the graveyard of St Peter-in-the-East. The church has supposedly existed since late 10th century.
● Food Diaries #1: Dinner by Heston
● Food Diaries #2: Jamie Oliver's Fifteen
● Food Diaries #3: Zucca, London
● Food Diaries #4: Pearl Liang, London
II. Windsor
III. Oxford
● Food Diaries #5: Browns Brasserie & Bar
● Food Diaries #6: Quod Restaurant & Bar
● Food Diaries #7: Al Andalus
IV. Cambridge
● Food Diaries #8: Midsummer House
 |
| Danbo in Oxford |
Main point of our 2014 UK trip was really Oxford, where we hung out with Hubby's best buddy, DT, who was there for his postgraduate studies.
 |
| Norham Gardens, Teddy Hall's graduate housing at Oxford |
Mostly spent our time hanging out at his flat in Norham Gardens (Teddy Hall's postgrad housing) and just, well, chatting up a storm, helping him pack, sort out stuff to send bring back for him, and helping him diminish his food provisions. It was all pretty fun actually. In terms of food, we ate well.
 |
| Norham Gardens, Teddy Hall's graduate housing at Oxford |
Sometimes cooking simple dishes in a tiny student flat kitchen with good buddies beats eating at a Michelin starred restaurant. In any case, we also got out to eat a few times at 2 Oxford food establishments Browns and Quod, and on our last day, trying the Spanish tapas at Al Andalus.
 |
| Danbo likes the gardens in Norham Gardens, Oxford |
 |
| Danbo wandering around the gardens in Norham Gardens, Oxford |
Knowing how I love my coffee, DT took us to Turl Street Kitchen, one of the establishments about town. DT mentioned that the place uses ethically-sourced produce and apparently grew out of a university charity.
 |
| Breakfast at Turl Street Kitchen, Oxford |
TSK is located along Turl Street, which is apparently a historic street (locally called "The Turl") that got its name from a twirling gate that had been a postern (a secondary gate) in the city wall.
 |
| The Bridge of Sighs, Oxford |
DT first took us to the Bridge of Sighs, located at New College Lane Its actual name is Hertford Bridge, but it is so-nicknamed because of its supposed similarity with the Bridge of Sighs in Venice - which it also actually does not resemble. (There is also another Bridge of Sighs in Cambridge, at St John's College. Also so-named after the one in Venice, but also bearing no resemblance.)
 |
| The Bodleian Libraries, Oxford |
We then pop by the Bodleian Library, one of the oldest libraries in Europe, and the 2nd largest library in Britain. The current Library can be dated back to 1602. But apprently its roots can be traced back to the 14th century, founded under the will of Thomas Cobham, the Bishop of Worcester.
 |
| Tower of the Five Orders, the Bodleian Libraries, Oxford |
Just before we entered the Divinity School building (where the Radcliffe Camera tour begins), we pass the Schools Quadrangle and the Tower of the Five Orders. The Schools Quadrangle was built between 1613 and 1619. The Tower is so-named because it has columns of the 5 orders of classical architecture (Tuscan, Doric, Ionic, Corinthian and Composite).
 |
| The Divinity School at the Bodleian Libraries, Oxford |
The Divinity School is a medieval building dating back to 1427-1483, and was built for Oxford for the study of theology. The building and room were constructed in the Perpendicular Gothic style, and the ceiling has exquisite pendant fan vaulting that was designed in the 1480s by English gothic architect William Orchard. So beautiful! I think I developed a crick in my neck because I couldn't stop looking up.
From the Divinity School, we were taken on a tour to, first, Duke Humfrey's Library, the Bodleian's oldest reading room. The Libary was named after the 1st Duke of Gloucester, Humphrey of Lancaster, who was a younger son of King Henry IV. When he died, he donated his collection of 281 manuscripts to Oxford University.
 |
| The Radcliffe Camera, the Bodleian Libraries, Oxford |
During the tour, we were also taken inside Radcliffe Camera. (Photography in there is prohibited, sadly.) The Radcliffe Camera became part of the Bodleian Libraries around 1860, when the library needed more space. The building was built in 1737-1749 and was designed in the neo-classical architectural style by James Gibbs (1682-1754), one of Britain's most influential architectures. It is considered to be one of England's earliest examples of a circular library.
Apparently, Tolkien had remarked that Radcliffe Camera resembled Sauron's temple to Morgoth on Numenor. And speaking of Tolkien, he was a constant visitor to the Bodleian Libraries, as were the other Inklings. And the Bodleian possess some of Tolkien's original LOTR manuscripts, and CS Lewis' original Narnia manuscripts! (Sorry, nerd moment.)
 |
| The gardens at Christ Church, Oxford; Tom Tower on the left |
After the Bodleian, we head to Christ Church - which I later learned produced the most British PMs over any other Oxbridge college. (13 British PMs.)
 |
| The gardens at Christ Church, Oxford |
For an idyllic-looking college, its founding seemed quite fraught with political intrigue. Christ Church was originally founded as Cardinal College in 1525 by Thomas Wolsey (c. 1473-1530), Lord Chancellor of England and Cardinal Archbishop of York. Around this time, Wolsey was the most powerful man in England, save for King Henry VIII himself. Wolsey dissolved the priory of St Frideswide, Wallingford Priory, and various other priories. Using the lands and funds from their dissolution, he founded Cardinal College and commenced construction.
 |
| Christ Church, Oxford |
But as we all know, fortune during the reign of Henry VIII was most fickle. Wolsey fell from grace in 1529 because he failed to obtain an annulment of the marriage of Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon. (So that Henry VIII could marry Anne Boleyn.) He died in 1530, and his property was escheated. Then, Henry VIII suppressed Cardinal College in 1531, and re-founded it in 1532 as King Henry VIII's College.
 |
| Christ Church, Oxford |
 |
| Christ Church, Oxford |
Then in 1546, Henry VIII re-founded the college as Christ Church. At the time, he had broken from the Roman Catholic Church in Rome, and dissolved many monasteries in England. The re-founding of the college was part of the reorganisation of the Church of England. Henry VIII also founded Trinity College in Cambridge in the same year. (We also visited Trinity College in Cambridge during this trip.)
 |
| Christ Church, Oxford |
 |
| The stairway to the Great Hall, Christ Church, Oxford |
Can't miss the staircase to the Great Hall. The pendant vaulted ceiling is pretty amazing. And apparently, the staircase was used as a set for the Harry Potter films.
 |
| The Great Hall of Christ Church, Oxford |
So we are at the Great Hall which was what the dining hall in the Harry Potter films were modelled on. The Great Hall was built in 1592. The portraits hanging on the walls of the Hall are famous Christ Church attendees, of which 13 are British PMs.
 |
| Christ Church Cathedral, looking towards the altar |
Christ Church Cathedral serves a dual role, that is said to be unique in the Church of England - it is the cathedral of the diocese of Oxford, and the college chapel of Christ Church. The cathedral was originally the church of the priory of St Frideswide, which had been dissolved by Wolsey in 1522.
 |
| Christ Church Cathedral, looking towards the choir and organ |
The Cathedral choir dates back to 1526, and has included many notable organists, beginning with the 16th century composer John Traverner (the cathedral's first organist), and including Sir Thomas Armstrong.
The vaulted ceiling was constructed in 1500 by William Orchard (who also did the ceiling of the Divinity School, above). From 12 stone lanterns, the ribs fan outwards and at the centre are small interconnecting lierne ribs that form 8-pointed stars.
 |
| The altar, rose window and chancel ceiling of Christ Church Cathedral |
The altar is located at the east end of the Cathedral. Behind the altar is a carved ornamental screen (reredos) which depicts Christ on the cross, St Michael, St Stephen, the Virgin Mary, St John, St Augustine of Hippo and St Gabriel. The reredos was designed by G.F. Bodley in 1881. Above the altar and reredos is a small but beautiful 10-part stained glass rose window.
 |
| Front quadrangle, St Edmund Hall, Oxford |
After Christ Church, we asked DT to show us around St Edmund Hall, his college.
It's not clear when St Edmund Hall was established - usually it's been pegged at 1236, but its name first appeared in 1317 (in a lease agreement). It was named after St Edmund of Abingdon, the first known Oxford Master of Arts and first Oxford-educated Archbishop of Canterbury.
But in any case, St Edmund Hall was one of the ancient medieval halls that laid the foundation of Oxford University (called Aularian houses), which preceded the first colleges. It is now Oxford's only surviving medieval hall, and attained college status in 1957.
 |
| Front quadrangle, St Edmund's Hall, Oxford |
At the front quadrangle is the porter's lodge, the Old Dining Hall, the college bar and buttery and the Chapel and Old Library. In the centre is a medieval well, where St Edmund was said to have drawn water.
 |  |
| The middle common room & Teddy, St Edmund's Hall, Oxford | |
DT took us to the middle common room. And there we meet Sebastian, St Edmund Hall's mascot teddy bear! (^.^) St Edmund Hall is colloquially called Teddy Hall. And I am not sure if it's because of the life-sized Sebastian....
 |
| Library of St Edmund's Hall, Oxford |
Also explored the college library, which is housed in the 12th century church of St Peter-in-the-East (deconsecrated) since in the 1970s. Apparently the still-consecrated crypt that lies below sits on pre-Norman foundations.
 |
| Danbo at the Teddy Hall library, Oxford |
 |
| Out and about the gardens of Teddy Hall, Oxford |
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| Lords-and-ladies somewhere around the gardens of Teddy Hall |
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| The gardens of Teddy Hall, Oxford |
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| Globe thistles, Teddy Hall gardens, Oxford |
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| Hollyhocks, Teddy Hall gardens, Oxford |
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| Danbo at the gardens of Teddy Hall, Oxford |
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| Danbo at the gardens of Teddy Hall, Oxford |
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| The graveyard of St Peter-in-the-East |
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| The graveyard of St Peter-in-the-East |
DT was happily proclaiming that Teddy Hall has its own cemetery. He was referring to the graveyard of St Peter-in-the-East. The church has supposedly existed since late 10th century.
An English Summer with Danbo (June~July 2014)
I. London● Food Diaries #1: Dinner by Heston
● Food Diaries #2: Jamie Oliver's Fifteen
● Food Diaries #3: Zucca, London
● Food Diaries #4: Pearl Liang, London
II. Windsor
III. Oxford
● Food Diaries #5: Browns Brasserie & Bar
● Food Diaries #6: Quod Restaurant & Bar
● Food Diaries #7: Al Andalus
IV. Cambridge
● Food Diaries #8: Midsummer House
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