Kalle Shirt Dress + nani IRO "fuccra rakuen Mallorca / Pipi"

Almost finished with my first Closet Case Kalle Shirt Dress. (The pattern is available here.) Since I'm (still) hand-sewing, it has taken a while to make. Just have the buttons and buttonholes to complete... But am feeling a little unmotivated. (*꒦ິ⌓꒦ີ) This whole COVID-19 lockdown is a getting a bit much even for a home-body introvert like me.

Closet Case Kalle Shirt Dress in nani IRO fuccra rakuen Mallorca.

I've a thing for little secret or unseen details. So I used different coloured fabric for the inner parts. Also thought that it'd be fun since I have 2 colour ways of the same fabric design.

The under collar and stand in contrasting coloured fabric (nani IRO fuccra rakuen Pipi).

So for the main fabric I used nani IRO fuccra rakuen マヨルカMallorca cotton sateen, and I used fuccra rakuen ピピPipi cotton sateen for the inner yoke, under collar and stand. (Both are from the nani IRO 2017 season.)


Originally regretted buying the Pipi colour way. I came to find the PiPi colour combination too flashy for my personal preference. Making the Kalle shirt caused a change of heart; Now I'm planning to make another Kalle shirt from it for someone else. This person's tastes tend toward the gaudy flashy scale, so it's perfect.

Overall the pattern wasn't difficult to use. The instructions had to be supplemented with the online tutorials. If there's any gripe I have, it's that I'm not used to using patterns that only indicate the cutting line...common to these indie US-based patterns.

Cutting fabric for the Kalle Shirt Dress (on IG).

Made a few mistakes along the way, so I ended up using more than 2m of the fabric. o(╥﹏╥)o
(1) Tried cutting the fabric in a way that the design motif would be contiguous in front, but I screwed up... Twice!!! Re-cut the right front panel a 2nd time, but I still misjudged the part to cut at the button placket. Decided that I'd wasted enough fabric, and went with the 2nd attempt.
(2) Had to make the collar again, for starters. Thus far, the shirts I've made had rounded collars (here and here), so turning out the pointy tips of this traditional collar was more difficult than I visualised. The first one I made, either I cut the seam allowance close to the seam, or I pushed the corners too much when I turned them over. Whatever it is, part of the fabric edge came through. The weave didn't help.
(3) Had to re-cut and remake the collar stand too. Cut the seam allowance at the ends too close to the seam, at the curved part and the ends. When I remade it, I made notches and small gathers at the curved part so it would turn over neater.
(4) The dramatically curved hem.... Not a mistake, but a part I struggled with. The curves at the sides don't sit neatly or flat.
(5) Last but not least, the biggest mistake in fact. I made the shirt a size too small. I can still wear it, but it's a little tight at the shoulders. Every other part fits really well, just that part. (>﹏<) I made size 2 this time; next time I think I'll do size 4.

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