Japan with Cleo #5/10 - Aomori & Hirosaki: Apples, Seafood, Sakura, a Castle

(This post is Part 5 of 10 of Japan with Cleo, 28 April - 14 May 2017. Edited on 11 August 2017, and 12 July 2021.)

"The most important season is the one we're in now.
It's our season." (Boys Be..., official English trans.) (IG)

During this trip (from Part 1), Cleo also accompanied us to see the sakura at Hirosaki and, later, Hakodate (Part 6). This would be our first time in Aomori! Given the time period of our trip, our only was of viewing sakura would be to head for Hokkaido, where peak bloom is typical in early May, as per the sakura forecasts (which mainly account for the Somei Yoshino).

Last year, we went to Hakodate and Sapporo, where we caught the Somei Yoshino at peak bloom (posted here), as well as other sakura varieties (posted here). This BFF trip, we decided to take our chances with Hirosaki, and then revisit Hakodate. According to the the sakura zensen forecasts, Hirosaki was past peak. We took a chance that we would get to see some pretty sights... after all, Hirosaki is also popular for its petal-filled moats (more below).

I must confess that I planned the visit because Hirosaki Park is also the location of some scenes from Flying Witch (「ふらいんぐうぃっち」), a slice-of-life manga and anime series by Ishizuka Chihiro. (Comparison post pending.Should I do a comparison post...?) The main character, Kowata Makoto, is also the namesake of Cleo - whom I christened Makoto, in keeping with naming practice. (All my adoptees, save for a few exceptions, have adopted names.)

AOMORI

To get to Hirosaki from Tokyo, we took the shinkansen up to Aomori (青森), the capital city of the Aomori Prefecture in the north of Honshu. We stayed within walking distance from the Aomori Bay Bridge and the Wa Rasse Nebuta Museum. Both are distinct architectural icons of Aomori City.

Aomori Bay Bridge and Wa Rasse Nebuta Museum

Wa Rasse Nebuta Museum, Aomori

The Wa Rasse Nebuta Museum (ねぶたの家 ワ・ラッセ) opened in 2011 and displays 5 of the massive nebuta floats that were used in the Aomori Nebuta Matsuri (青森ねぶた祭り). Designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property, it is Aomori's largest summer festival and considered one of the 3 great festivals of the Tohoku region.

Though we didn't visit the museum, I did stop to just admire the building, which is truly unique. Apple-red metal strips encased the entire building, but were twisted to the side at varying angles at parts so the stark white walls of the museum's exterior peep through. The museum's unique architecture was designed by 2 partners in a Vancouver firm, with the intention of presenting aspects of Aomori culture.

Walking along, we also passed lots of apples and apple products. Apples seem to be all over Aomori. Not surprising since apples are an Aomori regional specialty and Aomori Prefecture is Japan's main producer of apples. In fact, Aomori is Japan's apple capital.

Remember the expensive Sekai Ichi, briefly mentioned in Tsukiji (Part 4)? It's an Aomori regional specialty. How about the more commonplace Fuji apples that we chow down all the time at home? It was an apple cultivar that was developed by apple growers in the Aomori Prefecture (Fujisaki town, to be exact).

Aomori, Apple Capital

Apple cultivation in Aomori Prefecture began in 1875 (Meiji era) when 3 saplings were sent to the prefectural office. Prior to apples, the region was considered unsuitable for agriculture because of its harsh winters. However, it turned out that the climate was somewhat ideal for apple cultivation. Today, Aomori produces 6 cultivars (Fuji, Sekai Ichi, Mutsu, Kinsei, Jonagold and Ohrin)and accounts for over 50% of Japan's apple production. 

Apparently, a lot of attention is given to the entire cultivation process. Every single process is to ensure maximum sunlight and nutrients for apple growth, and later for the fruit to achieve its peak. Reflective sheets are placed on the ground so sunlight is reflected onto the apples' lower surfaces, and the apples are even rotated to ensure all surfaces receive sunlight. Even harvesting is selective, where only apples that are at their peak flavour and colour are picked.

So, we all saw sooooo many apples while we were in Aomori and Hirosaki. But... we just didn't eat or buy any apples or apple products. Real silly, I know. I suspect if it were just DT and me, we would most likely have done so. But with bee-in-bonnet Hubby...? I didn't even get to eat apple pie or indulge in a Sekai Ichi. Boohoo.... Well, I guess this means a return trip!

AUGA SHINSEN ICHIBA

Our first stop to look for breakfast was Auga Shinsen Ichiba (アウガ新鮮市場), one of the 2 markets in Aomori City.

Auga Shinsen Ichiba, Aomori City (on IG)

The Auga market is a seafood market at the basement of the shopping centre Auga Festival City. We didn't have breakfast there however. It looked more like a market where you'd get your food supplies and groceries. It was very atmospheric though, and I think it is a great marketplace to get some great Aomori produce, whether to munch on, cook, or bring home as souvenirs.

AOMORI GYOSAI CENTRE

So we left Auga Shinsen Ichiba and headed for the other market that is a few blocks south of it - Aomori Gyosai Centre (青森魚菜センター), aka Furukawa Fish Market, a local fish market that has this nokkedon (のっけ丼) thing going on.

The nokkedon is a DIY seafood donburi that goes by a ticket/token system. 10 tokens for ¥1,080 or 5 tokens for ¥540. After that, you "spend" the rest of the tokens getting seafood from the various stalls around the market. Our first token was used on the bowl of warm rice. All the other tokens, we exchanged at various vendor stalls for all kinds ingredients for our nokkedon.

Auga Shinsen Ichiba, Aomori City (IG album)

It was a rather fun and interactive way to explore the market. Because it made us walk around, looking for ingredients, and also to interact with the vendors. That said, the tickets disappear faster than one realises!

DT and I totally lost track of the number of tokens we used. We ended up using 2 sets of tokens! Hubs despaired of us, and remarked that the 2 of us used up around three-quarters of all the tokens among the 3 of us. Ooops.... Hubby's nokkedon was really humble compared to DT's and mine. I think the only high priced items he had were the 2 kinds of ikura and king crab.

Auga Shinsen Ichiba, Aomori City (IG album)

So, my nokkedon was topped with salmon, ikura, akagai, murasaki uni, tako, chutoro, as well as scallop and the scallop himo (the frilled ribbon-like part).

My nokkedon, Aomori Gyosai Centre (IG album)

In hindsight, I kind of made a mistake by loading up on the uni, ikura and akagai at one of the first stalls near the entrance. Because as we moved further inside the market, there were other stalls that had some of the same ingredients that looked like they were larger, fresher or better quality for around the same amount in tokens. DT realised this partway, and managed to score some great deals for half his nokkedon! Maybe the lesson from this experience is to make a quick round through the market floor first, to recce the full spread! But overall, I'm not going to complain about the freshness and flavours of this luxurious nokkedon that I had for breakfast.

Our nokkedon at Aomori Gyosai Centre (IG album)

Aside from the nokkedon, Aomori Gyosai Centre is a public market just like Auga Shinsen Ichiba (above), with rows of vendors selling seafood or other kinds of produce, fresh or dried. It was, of course, a much smaller market than Tsukiji Market (Part 4) but I think it's no less interesting. They also have a wide variety of seafood and vegetables. (And many apples...for obvious reasons.)

And of course, it's a Japanese market, so it also has seasonal ingredients. So, at a stall near the entrance, I saw more mountain vegetables (sansai) at the market. (Which I've also posted about in Part 4, Tsukiji Market). I love sansai and would happily add them on to my nokkedon if that had been possible. However, they were uncooked.

Angelica shoots (taranome) and (koshiabura), the king and queen of sansai respectively, at Aomori Gyosai Centre (IG album)

Other than kogomi (ostrich fern), fukinoto (butterbur buds), and yamaudo (mountain asparagus), I saw taranome (たらの芽), a much prized mountain vegetable that is considered as the king of sansai. Super excited. Taranome are the young shoots of the Angelica tree (the Aralia elata). In season in March and April, the young shoots are picked when about 2 inches in length. The shoots are very bitter when raw, and it is usually boiled or soaked, then cooked, before eating. A popular cooking method is tempura. Right next to the taranome was koshiabura (コシアブラ), the young shoots of the Acanthopanax sciadophylloides or Chengiopanax sciadophylloides, a tree native to Japan. In Japan, the koshiabura is the queen of sansai, and is also often used as tempura. Like the taranome, it also has a bitter taste when raw and is usually soaked in vinegared water or boiled first.

Aomori Gyosai Centre

Wandering along the stores, looking for ingredients to fill up my nokkedon, we also spotted Hokkaido muraksaki uni, scallops (which are also an Aomori specialty), what looks like yari-ika (槍烏賊 spear squid) and a orange-red fish labelled kinki (キンキ) - which I later learned is the broadfin thornyhead (Sebastolobus macrochir), and is also known as kichiji (キチジ) in Japan.

Also caught sight of a few fresh specimens of monkfish (あんこう anko), a delicacy in Japan for which the liver is the most prized part of the fish (see Food Diaries #21: Sushi Masuda). The ones I saw were already gutted, with the liver (ankimo) displayed.

Kinmedai, Aomori Gyosai Centre

There're a number of seafood that I recognise, like the kinmedai (金目鯛 golden-eye seabream), anago (穴子 conger eel), and hokke (ホッケ).

Aomori Gyosai Centre

Saw hokke, the Okhotsk atka mackerel, aka Arabesque greenling (Pleurogrammus azonus). During a trip to Kushiro a few years ago (posted here), we had hokke no hiraki (split lengthwise, cleaned and dried), a Hokkaido staple. Hokke is caught in Japan's northern waters.

So, what caught my interest the most was this weird alien-looking item labelled "hoya" (ホヤ). At the time I had no clue what it was, but later learnt that hoya is the sea pineapple or sea squirt (Halocynthia roretzi). It is a sea animal, despite its ugly alien looks. Prior to this, the only Japanese entity I knew by that name is Hoya Co., from my camera lens filters.... ;p

Sea pineapple (hoya), Aomori Gyosai Centre

Apparently, it is considered a rare delicacy in Japan and Korea, best in May, and the Japanese eat it sashimi or sushi style, or slightly boiled or pickled. Given that it looks like some alien crony's heart, I'm not at all inclined to try a taste of it. Anyway, it's been said that hoya is an acquired taste.

HIROSAKI CASTLE PARK

After breakfast at Aomori Gyosai Centre, we took the train to Hirosaki, a city southwest of Aomori. For the sole purpose of visiting Hirosaki Park, the city's main attraction and landmark...during sakura season, and for their annual Sakura Matsuri~!

Hirosaki city (弘前) itself is a fairly quiet city. Hirosaki began as a castle town for the Hirosaki Domain, which was ruled by the Tsugaru clan during the Edo era. (I guess that's why the Aomori area is known as the Tsugaru Peninsula.) Hirosaki Park (弘前公園) is located on the grounds of Hirosaki Castle (弘前城), the seat of the Tsugaru clan. In 1894, the Tsugaru clan donated the castle grounds to the Meiji government, and in 1895, it opened to the public as a park.

Cleo among the shidarezakura at Hirosaki Park (on IG)

The Tsugaru clan's founder was Oura Tamenobu (大浦 為信), later Tsugaru Tamenobu (津軽 為信), a former retainer of the Nanbu clan. During the Sengoku period, Tamenobu revolted against his overlord and submitted to Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Tamenobu assisted the Hideyoshi in the 1590 Siege of Odawara, and was rewarded with territory and confirmation an independent daimyo. At around this time, he became the daimyo of the Hirosaki Domain, and took on the clan name Tsugaru (津軽). The Tsugaru clan was also actively part of the various major wars over from the Sengoku period to the Meiji era, such as the 1600 Battle of Sekigahara in which they supported Tokugawa Ieyasu over their former lord Toyotomi, the 1868-1869 Boshin War, and the Battle of Hakodate. From 1869 to 1871, the last Tsugaru daimyo, Tsugaru Tsuguakira, was appointed as an imperial governor of Hirosaki. After the abolition of the han system in 1871, at which time Hirosaki was merged with Aomori Prefecture, he received a kazoku peerage title.

The view of the sakura trees already begin from the outer moat (sotobori). Unfortunately, we were late for the Somei Yoshino, and most of trees were in leaf while the fallen petals filled the moat below. But this sight, known as hazakura (葉桜), i.e. cherry tree in leaf, is also appreciated in Japan as a special time in spring.

Hazakura. The sakura lining the outer moat, at the sotobori of Hirosaki Castle.

It's not hard to imagine how amazing this spot would be during peak bloom...and here's a screenshot from Flying Witch of the same location just for some geeky fun. Although, the sight of the moat covered with fallen pink petals is also rather picturesque.

Screenshot from Flying Witch, episode 4 at 00:00:07. Source/copyright: Ishizuka Chihiro/Kodansha/JC Staff/Flying Witch Production Team.

Not much of the original castle buildings has survived. Only 3 yagura and 5 gates survive. These structures and the tenshu (the castle keep) are designated as Important Cultural Properties. Our route began at one of the 5 surviving gates, the Otemon (追手門), at the south end of the park.

Hazakura. The Otemon, Hirosaki Park

Screenshot from Flying Witch, episode 4 at 00:00:19. Source/copyright: Ishizuka Chihiro/Kodansha/JC Staff/Flying Witch Production Team.

The contrast of the wood and tiles with the trees is really pretty, though I was a little sad that it was past peak.

Sakura trees at Hirosaki Park

Screenshot from Flying Witch, episode 4 at 00:00:24. Source/copyright: Ishizuka Chihiro/Kodansha/JC Staff/Flying Witch Production Team.

Hirosaki Park is considered to be one of Japan's best hanami spots, one of Japan's 100 best sakura spots. Due to its 2,600 cherry trees of different varieties, it is known to have a longer hanami season.

When we visited (on 2 May), it was already past peak bloom for the Somei Yoshino. But it's not hard to imagine how amazing peak must've been (see Japan Guide's 2017 report).

Fallen sakura petals afoot, Hirosaki Park (on IG)

Well although it was past peak for a large part of the park when we were there, we did manage to catch other varieties that were still in bloom, and we were right on time to catch the weeping cherries (shidare-zakura) in peak bloom (more below).

Fallen sakura petals covering the ground at Hirosaki Park (on IG)

Even so... the grounds were lovely, as the fallen petals made a lovely carpet on the ground. And whenever there was a breeze, the petals on the ground would stir, while the overarching branches would sway and send more petals fluttering downwards. Also, as said above, this hazakura period also imparts a sense of season, with the sight of the few late blossoms, the red pistils and young leaves on the trees, while the ground is carpeted with petals.

Hazakura and a fluttering pink moat. Fallen sakura petals covering the castle moat, Sugi-no-Ohashi, Hirosaki Park (on IG)

Screenshot from Flying Witch, episode 4 at 00:01:00. Source/copyright: Ishizuka Chihiro/Kodansha/JC Staff/Flying Witch Production Team.

The surface of the castle moat was covered with fallen blossoms too. Particularly lovely views where the petals collect at the corners of the moat, or under one of the bridges across the moat.

Petal-filled castle moat, Hirosaki Park (on IG)

All over the park, parts of the moat are filled with pale pink petals. It looks like the beauty of the sakura at Hirosaki Park after peak bloom is to be seen underfoot, rather than overhead.

Mt Iwaki, view from Hirosaki Park (on IG)

Strolling along, there are various spots with great views of Mt Iwaki (岩木山), a stratovolcano located around 32km from Hirosaki, in western Aomori Prefecture. Mt Iwaki has been called Tsugaru-Fuji due to its shape. Its last known eruption was 1863. But during the Edo era, Mt Iwaki was known to have been active, and its frequent eruptions caused much disruption for the daimyos of the Hirosaki Domain.

Hall crabapple buds in front of the Butokuden Rest House

Somewhere in the park, while strolling around, we passed a restored traditional Japanese building serving as a rest house - the Butokuden. It was originally built in 1911 as a martial arts training hall (dojo).

Sakura tunnel, west side of Hirosaki Park

So, we just strolled along, taking in the view, until we got to the west side of the park...where some of the best sakura views are. Specifically, there is a row of sakura trees (Somei Yoshino, I believe) flanking a pathway, next to the west moat. Their branches are so close that they form a continuous tunnel of blossoms.

The west moat at Hirosaki Park

Screenshot from Flying Witch, episode 4 at 00:21:24. Source/copyright: Ishizuka Chihiro/Kodansha/JC Staff/Flying Witch Production Team. Wish I could use magic and levitate like this too!

The west moat itself makes a lovely sight, with around 300 sakura trees lining the moat, their branches hanging over the banks. It's also where people row around in little boats. Even though most of the trees were already past peak bloom, the spot is still picturesque and idyllic.

Making our way down the path alongside the west moat... I came to a spot that rings a bell for Flying Witch fans.....a fortune-teller booth!? In fact, there were 2 along the path at this area.

West moat, Hirosaki Park

Screenshot from Flying Witch, episode 4 at 00:06:33. Source/copyright: Ishizuka Chihiro/Kodansha/JC Staff/Flying Witch Production Team.

And not too far away from that spot...around a sort of corner of the west moat is a short bamboo fence and a bench, with a great view of the moat. Fans of Flying Witch will immediately recognise....

A bench at the west moat of Hirosaki Park

Screenshot from Flying Witch, episode 4 at 00:13:46. Source/copyright: Ishizuka Chihiro/Kodansha/JC Staff/Flying Witch Production Team.

Yup, that bench scene with Inukai and the animal-transforming chocolates! In fact, while we were there, a group of Japanese guys came along with a booklet of printed screenshots. They didn't just take photos of the site, they also posed for the photos, in positions that the Flying Witch characters did.

Aside from that however, it is a very nice spot to relax, sit down and take in the view. I stood at the bank and snapped a picture of the view (below).

The west moat at Hirosaki Park

HIROSAKI CASTLE

Cleo at Hirosaki Castle keep (on IG)

Can't just visit Hirosaki Park without paying its main feature a visit too.

Hirosaki Castle (弘前城) is an Edo period castle keep, and was the seat of the Tsugaru clan, which ruled the Hirosaki Domain.

It is one of Japan's 100 Top Castles, the Nihon Hyaku Meijō (日本百名城). (Other 100 Top Castles we've had the pleasure of visiting are Himeji and Matsumoto in 2015, and Edo Castle in 2016.)

The approach to the castle keep is its iconic and most photographed, view - with the crimson bridge (the Gejobashi) spanning the moat, in front of the castle keep on its stone foundation, and the surrounding cherry trees in bloom. (Of course, that view also featured in Flying Witch.)

Unfortunately for us, this was not the view since major renovation is being done on the stone foundation and walls, and the keep itself was moved 70m away from the foundation.

From what I read, the 400-ton castle keep had sunk by 27cm on one side, and had to be made level first. According to the construction plan, the entire keep was then lifted, whole and intact, and shifted 70m away onto a temporary platform. The castle also had to be rotated twice, to avoid damaging the sakura trees. Wow!

The Gejobashi and Hirosaki Castle (on IG)

Screenshot from Flying Witch, episode 4 at 00:01:03. Source/copyright: Ishizuka Chihiro/Kodansha/JC Staff/Flying Witch Production Team.

Well, we were there a little late for that beautiful view anyway. With the castle keep not in its original location, the view does look very different and nowhere as aesthetically pleasing. Still, the view of the crimson bridge and the far-off castle keep peeping through the cherry tree branches, is quite pleasing.

Admission ticket to Hirosaki Castle

Yeah, so, while Hirosaki Park is free to wander around, we had to buy a ticket in order to go into the castle keep. (And the botanical garden, which we skipped, to my regret.)

Hirosaki Castle in spring (IG album)

The original castle was planned in 1603 by the Tsugaru clan's founding daimyo Tsugaru Tamenobu (already introduced above), but work stopped when he died in 1604. Construction was completed in 1611 under the 2nd daimyo Tsugaru Nobuhira (津軽 信枚, 1586-1631), Tamenobu's third son.

Hirosaki Castle in spring (IG album)

Today's castle keep (tenshu) has 3 storeys, but the original keep actually had 5. The original castle keep was struck by lightning in 1627 and burnt down. A common fate for many Japanese castles, it seems. It was rebuilt, with 3 storeys, in 1810 by the 9th daimyo Tsugaru Yashuchika (津軽 寧親, 1765-1833). The present-day structure is the only surviving Edo period tenshu in the Tohoku region.

View of Mt Iwaki and the shidarezakura trees from Hirosaki Castle

Touring the castle keep, with its creaky wood floors and steep staircases, I was reminded of Matsumoto Castle and Himeji Castle (posted here)... only Hirosaki Castle is smaller by comparison. From the top floor of the keep was a great view of Mt Iwaki and the shidarezakura (weeping cherries) in the honmaru area.

It's one thing to view sakura in a glass conservatory in tropical Singapore (posted here), and another to see them in a Japanese park, complete with a castle. Even if the castle was moved for reconstruction works.

CHERRY & OTHER BLOSSOMS AT HIROSAKI CASTLE PARK

So, as mentioned, Hirosaki Park has 2,600 cherry trees of different varieties. Frankly, I'll never be able to identify all the varieties in the park without help. And I didn't keep an eye out for the old and famous trees that Hirosaki is also famous for - the 120-year-old Somei Yoshino, the shidarezakura tree (weeping cherry tree) named Otaki-zakura by Shiko Munakata, the Nikko Firs and the Nishi-no-Kuruwa ginkgo trees. Oops.

Beautiful yaeshidare-zakura at Hirosaki Park

Somei Yoshino and shidare-zakura trees dominate in Hirosaki Park. During our visit (2 May), the Somei Yoshino were past peak - most of the trees already covered with young leaves, with the red pistil and late blooms, and most of the petals already carpeting the ground. But the stars were the late-blooming yaeshidare-zakura (the double-petaled weeping cherry variety) which were in full bloom. They also make a beautiful sight.

The yaeshidare-zakura in full bloom at Hirosaki Park

The shidare-zakura trees were scattered around the park, but there were some magnificent ones clustered at the honmaru and the castle keep (tenshu).

The yaeshidare-zakura in full bloom at Hirosaki Park

The yaeshidare-zakura in full bloom at Hirosaki Park

The yaeshidare-zakura in full bloom at Hirosaki Park

Even though it was past peak bloom for the Somei Yoshino, there were still many beautiful blooms.

Some late Somei Yoshino at Hirosaki Park

Possibly late-blooming Somei Yoshino, Hirosaki Park

Other than the Somei Yoshino, shidare-zakura (weeping cherry), and kanzan-zakura (Kanzan cherry) I'm quite lousy at identifying cherry varieties. So for any tree that isn't labeled with a name (or with a label I didn't notice, oops), I can only hazard a guess.

Yaezakura at Hirosaki Park (IG album)

Somewhere in the park were the double-petaled cherries, the yaezakura, frilly little pompoms blushing at the tips. I confess I didn't look to see if this one was labelled, it looks like the yaezakura to me, though the colour and the stigma makes me wonder if it could be the ichiyo, one of Japan's more common late-blooming varieties.

Some other yaezakura variety at Hirosaki Park

Near the matsuri area were also some trees filled with more late-blooming yaezakura, these ones a pretty pink and super frilly.

Kanzan-zakura, Hirosaki Park

There were also many kanzan-zakura trees around the matsuri area, but they were not in full bloom yet. The early ones were a lovely dark pink against the coppery leaves. As mentioned before in the Blossoms Bliss post, the kanzan cherry holds some memories for me when it comes to sakura-viewing, being the first sakura I had seen when visiting the Brooklyn Botanic Gardens in 2012.

Have no idea which cherry variety these are, but they're pretty.

Walking through the park, we also came across trees bearing clean white sakura blossoms, looking pale and ethereal in the sunlight.

From afar, maybe ukon-zakura...? Probably not.... (IG album)

Thought there were ukon-zakura along the moat, since the blossoms look yellowish from afar. But it was a little hard to tell. I think maybe not, as it's rarely seen. Could be my wishful thinking....

Of course, cherry blossoms are not the only spring time flowers in Japan! There were apple blossoms too, displayed in pots. This being Aomori Prefecture........

Apple blossoms on display at Hirosaki Park (on IG)

Apple blossoms in a scene from Flying Witch, episode 10 at 00:14:35. Source/copyright: Ishizuka Chihiro/Kodansha/JC Staff/Flying Witch Production Team.

Well, of course there had to be apple blossoms, what with Aomori being famous for apples (as already mentioned). Hirosaki is supposedly one of Japan's top apple producers. If we had time, I would have also made plans to visit Hirosaki Apple Park, a park that has more than 1,200 apple trees (65 varieties).

While on the subject of apples, it also features prominently in Flying Witch! So, there are scenes of apple orchards, the Apple Park, and apple blossoms in a few episodes. And episode 10 is all about Makoto's day helping out at an apple orchard. So yeah, apples, apples, apples! We didn't go to the Apple Park on this trip, but I hope to someday!

Hall crab apple (hanakaidou) at Hirosaki Park

And then there was the crab apple tree outside the Butokuden Rest House that was full of deep pink buds and blossoms. Not sakura but also with very pretty blooms! The sign on the tree stated hanakaidou (花海棠), an East Asian crab apple species called the Hall crabapple (Malus halliana).

Hall crab apple (hanakaidou) at Hirosaki Park

GOKOKU SHRINE

Festival lanterns adorning Aomori Gokoku Shrine

At the north end of the park is the Aomori Prefecture Gokoku Shrine (青森縣護国神社), the Aomori branch of the Yasukuni Shrine in Tokyo.

The Gokoku Shrine was founded in 1870, during the Meiji era, as a memorial for the war dead of Battle of Hakodate (箱舘戦争 1868-1869) by Tsugaru Tsuguakira (津軽 承昭), the 12th daimyo of the Hirosaki Domain (today's Aomori Prefecture). Since then, other spirits of Japan's war dead have been enshrined in Gokoku Shrine.

The large torii gate and the surroundings of the shrine were still strung with the bright yellow lanterns for the Mitama Matsuri (みたま祭り), an annual festival that is held at the shrine on 28th and 29th April. The Mitama Matsuri, or Soul Festival, is just so - a festival in honour of the souls of Japan's war dead. The largest and most well known is the summer-time Mitama Matsuri at Tokyo's Yasukuni Shrine. (Probably the most controversial also, given the history and purpose of the Yasukuni Shrine.)

HIROSAKI SAKURA MATSURI

Spread out near the Gokoku Shrine were the stalls for the Hirosaki Sakura Matsuri (弘前さくらまつり).

Cleo at the Hirosaki Sakura Matsuri 2017, Hirosaki Park

The Hirosaki Sakura Matsuri is an spring festival that is held annually at Hirosaki Park from April 23 to May 5, when the sakura are in bloom. So, I've been going on about Flying Witch every now and then in this post, so I must add that the Hirosaki Sakura Matsuri was also given lots of airtime in episode 4 of the series!

Cleo totally enjoyed her time wandering around with us, looking at the stalls and sniffing all the aromas wafting from the food stalls.

Hirosaki Sakura Matsuri 2017, Hirosaki Park

Screenshot from Flying Witch, episode 4 at 00:03:43. Source/copyright: Ishizuka Chihiro/Kodansha/JC Staff/Flying Witch Production Team.

People always talk about Japan's summer festivals and the fireworks, but I think the spring festivals are just as lovely and atmospheric. The festival stalls were set up all around the north end of Hirosaki Park, among the sakura trees.

Hirosaki Sakura Matsuri 2017, Hirosaki Park

The festival was our last stop for the day at Hirosaki Park, and already the sun was beginning to go down. But it just made the scene more enjoyable - the the golden light glinting off the sakura, and the lights of the stalls beginning to cast warm glows.

There is also a Haunted House (obake-yashiki) at the Hirosaki Sakura Matsuri 2017, Hirosaki Park

Screenshot from Flying Witch, episode 4 at 00:04:48. Source/copyright: Ishizuka Chihiro/Kodansha/JC Staff/Flying Witch Production Team.

Close to the shrine's torii was a large obake-yashiki (haunted house) which I'm pretty sure was the real life inspiration for the one in Flying Witch. Anyway the obake-yashiki is a popular summer-time tradition, maybe because the Obon festival takes place in August. (Obon is the Japanese equivalent of the Chinese Hungry Ghost Festival.) I suppose it's kind of like how as kids/teens, we tried to gain a thrill by sitting close to some rumoured haunted spot and trade ghost stories in the dark. A very popular school camping tradition back home...and also a popular summer-time activity among Japanese youngsters.

Fishing for goldfish, Hirosaki Sakura Matsuri 2017, Hirosaki Park

In a way, I found it a little weird... seeing classically summer festival icons in a spring festival. Like the goldfish scooping game, which you're supposed to try and scoop with a poi (ポイ flat paper scoops). But I guess it's a game that is pretty synonymous with a typical Japanese festival. Whatever it is, it does pull me into a rather festive mood.

Cotton candy at the Hirosaki Sakura Matsuri 2017, Hirosaki Park

And which Japanese matsuri would be without cotton candy!? Couldn't help grinning when I remember what Chinatsu said the same in Flying Witch episode 4.

Charcoal-grilled ayu (sweetfish) at the Hirosaki Sakura Matsuri 2017, Hirosaki Park

I rather liked it when we passed a stall selling grilled ayu (sweetfish), also a summer season food. I surreptitiously hung around a little closer to have a sniff at the aroma of grilling fish, and also to grab some warmth from the charcoal stove. The weather was still pretty chilly.

Choco-banana at the Hirosaki Sakura Matsuri 2017, Hirosaki Park

And of course...which Japanese matsuri would be without choco-banana? These look way more appetising than the ones I first saw at the Shonan Hiratsuka Tanabata Matsuri back in July 2010.

Choco-banana, Hirosaki Sakura Matsuri 2017, Hirosaki Castle Park

Takoyaki, Hirosaki Sakura Matsuri 2017, Hirosaki Castle Park

Wolfing down all the Japanese matsuri classics! Hubby and DT had a choco-banana each. I'm not a fan, so I was quite happy with takoyaki. These were really yummy, with good chunks of tako inside.

Potato spiral, Hirosaki Sakura Matsuri 2017, Hirosaki Castle Park

Hubby also went in search of those fried potato spirals - another typical matsuri snack that I don't know the name of. Potato tornado, perhaps?

My daikon. Hirosaki Sakura Matsuri 2017, Hirosaki Park

Did not miss out on getting a stewed daikon from one the oden stalls. (There were a lot of oden stalls.) Kind of wish I loaded up and got a few other oden items, like aburaage and konnyaku. But it was getting late (i.e. close to dinner time) and we had to head back to Aomori to find dinner.

RISTORANTE BUONO, AOMORI

When we got back to Aomori City, it was around 8:30pm, a little past dinner time. We headed for our original plan, Ippachizushi (一八寿し) (Tabelog), but we didn't make a reservation, and there was a really long queue that didn't look like it would clear fast. So Hubby cast our lot into the wind and did a random search on the Internet for a recommended food place. We ended up heading for a local place called Ristorante Buono (リストランテ ブォーノ) (Tabelog).

Ristorante Buono, Aomori City

We found it a little tricky to find Buono. It is tucked away among the low-rise residential blocks and a carpark, near the architecturally distinct Aomori Prefecture Tourism Centre. When we found it and were showed to a table, what a relief for DT and my tired feet!

Buono is a cozy local Italian bistro, rather quiet with only 3 other diners there, but it had a nice atmosphere. No English menu unfortunately, and my proficiency with katakana (at this time) isn't great, so...but we managed in the end. Just slowly as I slowly deciphered the menu, and thanks to the patience of 2 very hungry dudes, as well as my own rumbling stomach. The food was not amazing, but it was decent: good flavours and decent pasta (a little softer than al dente but who's nitpicking!?). And when you're tired and the weather is chilly, good tasting pasta is a great comfort.

Prawn & mushroom spaghetti, Ristorante Buono, Aomori City

I think the 3 of us had a really good day.We had a good day out, getting some sun, viewing blossoms, and just having a leisurely time enjoying the season. Overall, I was really pleased to get some lovely pictures of Cleo with the sakura blossoms. I would love to make another trip back...when the castle is back in its original position, and during peak bloom! Perhaps even stay an extra day to pick and eat apples, and maybe scout out the other Flying Witch locations. (ᕑᗢूᓫ∗)

Also, on our "BFF Japan Bucket List", viewing the sakura in Japan was a much anticipated item - a close contender to the onsen ryokan stay and seeing Mt Fuji (which we did later, in Part 9). In hindsight, the sakura-viewing part of the trip may have been the most symbolic, considering the longtime close friendships, as well as the recent (not all fortunate) events that led to this trip. Quite a Boys Be moment. So perhaps it's apt that I quote from it....

"Cherry blossoms, the regal flowers that have witnessed countless encounters throughout the ages. Cherry blossoms, the short-lived blooms that have seen so many goodbyes. The blossoms will watch over this year's heartfelt emotions as well. And open their buds once more.... In Spring."

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Japan with Cleo (28 April - 14 May 2017)
- I. Tokyo - Asakusa • Seiko Museum • Ginza • Akihabara & Nakano • Tsukiji Market • Enoshima • Shinkawa, Tsukuda & Tsukishima • Sushi Nakamura • La Paix • Nishiazabu Taku • Showa Genroku Rakugo Shinjuu locations • 3-gatsu no Lion locations
- II. Aomori & Hirosaki - Auga Market • Aomori Gyosai Centre • Hirosaki Castle Park • Hirosaki Sakura Matsuri 2017 • Flying Witch locations
- III. Hakodate - Hakodate Asaichi • Goryokaku Park
- IV. Fuji Five Lakes - Lake Motosu • Subaru 5th Station & Shibazakura • Chureito & Kawaguchiko
- V. Osaka - Kuromon Market • Dotonbori • Harukas 300 • Food Basement Galore!
- VI. Kobe - nackymade • Steak Land Kobe

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