[Back Post] Japan with Peko-chan 2017 #3/9 - Hida Mountains II: Takayama

Peko-chan at Daiouji, along the Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō

After the heavy snow and damp chill of Shirakawa-go (Part 2), the warmer weather of Takayama was a relief. That said, our ryokan was shin-deep in snow, being in the Hirayu Onsen平湯温泉 area, east of Takayama and nestled higher up in the Hida mountains. So each morning we awoke, it was to the sight of snow on the mountain shoulders.

Hirayu Onsen

Reception at Miyama Ouan, Hirayu Onsen, Okuhida, Gifu Prefecture.

For part of our stay in the Hida mountains, we stayed 2 nights at Miyama Ouan匠の宿 深山桜庵, a ryokan is located in Hirayu Onsen平湯温泉, an onsen town in Okuhida奥飛騨, about 37km from central Takayama, up in the Hida mountains. Hirayu Onsen is the largest onsen town in Okuhida. The story is it was supposedly discovered by daimyo大名 Takeda Shingen武田 信玄 in the 1560s (the Sengoku era戦国時代) when his troops passed through the region. This was probably during Shingen's campaign to take control of the area before battling Oda Nobunaga織田信長. Now all that is history, but the reputation of the area's onsen has supposedly remained.

At Miyama Ouan, Hirayu Onsen, Okuhida, Gifu Prefecture.

When we finally made it to Miyama Ouan, it was already dark (in Part 2). The staff were surprised that we showed up so late, because everyone with bookings for the day had long shown up. The carpark right in front of the ryokan entrance was completely full, and we had to park in one of the secondary carparks, which was completely covered in shin-deep snow. It was such a relief to be shown into our room, which was warm and comfy, with a homely feel.

Hida beef for dinner at Miyama Ouan, Hirayu Onsen.

For dinner on our first night, we had actually missed the dinner timing by about half an hour plus. However, the staff were so kind as to still serve us dinner. That was a relief because there's hardly anywhere to go or eat in the area after sundown. ｡ﾟ(TヮT)ﾟ｡ The main dish was Hida beef飛騨牛, the pride of the Hida region. We had thick slices in yakiniku style and thin slices in sukiyaki style.

More Hida beef (here, sukiyaki style) for dinner at Miyama Ouan, Hirayu Onsen.

After dinner on the first night, we hopped into the small onsen in our bathroom, and debated going down to the private-use rotenburo露天風呂, which goes by a reservation system where you reserve a time-slot and have private exclusive use during that time. Late night is probably not the best time to do a night-time dip. Sub-zero temperature, almost pitch-dark, loads of snow.... But there is something the cold adds to the magic of the onsen, I guess... After soaking for a short while, we kind of floated back to our room, barely feeling the chill, fell onto our soft warm beds and fell asleep.

Morning view from our room, Miyama Ouan, Hirayu Onsen. (More on IG)

Very early in the morning, we awoke to watery sunlight and a snow-covered landscape. Everything seemed to be muffled along with that blanket of snow.

Having a brief soak in the onsen is a great way to start the cold day. Followed by breakfast, which was at the main restaurant. We had a window counter seat, which looked out to the snow-clad mountain slopes, snow-laden pine trees, and icicle-encrusted window ledges.

Breakfast at Miyama Ouan, Hirayu Onsen.

Besides traditional Japanese dishes made with highland produce from the area, there was hoba miso朴葉味噌, a local dish of minced pickles, miso, and chopped negi onions on top of a dried magnolia leaf. The mixture is grilled on the leaf and traditionally mixed with steamed rice. Delicious! One of the things I love about ryokan stays are the breakfasts. They're always simple, but delicious, healthy, and balanced. (ᕑᗢूᓫ∗)

One of the rotenburo at Miyama Ouan, Hirayu Onsen (on IG).

After breakfast we went down to the private-use rotenburo again. The experience felt somewhat different in the daytime, where we could actually see our surroundings. Surrounding the sides of the rotenburo was a high wooden fence, and one side overlooked the mountain valley. All we could see were the tree branches covered with snow. The stones and sasa plants around the rotenburo were all covered in clean, fluffy snow as well. While soaking, it started to snow lightly, and we watched the snow flakes drift down the open sky above, and disappear as they met the steam rising from the bath. It really quiet, with the occasional sound muffled by the snow.

Dinner on both nights was luxurious but still had that comforting, homely feel. Both nights, the main dish was Hida beef, the region's specialty. Hida beef is wagyu, and comes from the Japanese Black黒毛和牛. Hida beef is said to be just as highly esteemed as Kobe beef in Japan. To be perfectly honest, the marbling was wonderful and the flavour had that subtle sweetness from the fat. I'm no Nakiri Erina, so I likely won't be able to tell the difference between Hida beef and Kobe beef in a blind taste test.

It was served in yakiniku and sukiyaki style on our first night, but for our second night, it was served shabu shabu. The slices for our 2nd night dinner had fantastic marbling. Looking at it, I could practically imagine it sliding down my tongue. Of the 3 styles, my favourite style will always be yakiniku, but I think in this case, I preferred it shabu shabu style, with the marbling, and the light and plain konbu broth, the ponzu dipping sauce... Hubby however preferred it sukiyaki style.

It was a great stay. Will definitely be somewhere I'd love to return for another onsen stay!

Takayama Old Town

Nakabashi, Takayama, Gifu Prefecture (others on IG).

We mostly walked around Takayama高山, stopping by Takayama old town and then doing part of the Higashiyama walking course. Takayama is a pretty quiet town with a generally slow and relaxed pace.

Takayama was part of the former Hida Province. Since the Nara and Heian eras, the region was a major source of timber and Takayama became known for its wood crafting and carpentry expertise. So great were the skills of wood craftsmen from the Hida region that they were called Hida no Takumi飛騨の匠, with the traditional craftsmen skills passed down from generation to generation (see also Part 4, Hida-Furukawa). Their skills were highly valued throughout Japan. So famous were their skills that Basho referred to them in a hokku:

suzushisa o涼しさを Hida no takumi ga飛騨の工が sashizu kana指図かな
Coolness / Hida's carpenter has / house plan (trans. Jane Reichhold, Basho: The Complete Haiku)

One of the picturesque spots of Takayama is Nakabashi中橋, a lovely vermilion bridge over the Miyakawa. It's one of Takayama's best sakura spots. But since we were here in November, we get to see the willows instead. The floats from the Takayama Matsuri高山祭 also pass through this bridge.

Takayama Sanmachi Suji

Takayama old town, Sanmachi Suji三町筋 is probably the most well known part of Takayama. It is fairly touristy however. In the old town area there're a lot of old buildings dating back to the Edo period. It's no wonder Takayama is also called "Little Kyoto".

Takayama City Archives Museum

One of the more interesting old buildings (to me anyway) was the City Archives Museum高山市政記念館, which was used as the town's offices from the Meiji era to the Showa era. It's a testimony to the city's history really. It's almost entirely built with Japanese cypress, and has glass sliding doors dating back to when glass windows were first introduced to Takayama, making it the first building to have glass in the area.

Hida San'nogu Hie Shrine

Hida San'nogu Hie Shrine, Takayama.

Before starting on the Higashiyama Walking Course (below), we popped by the Hida San'nogu Hie Shrine日枝神社. The shrine was built in 1141 and is the centre of the Spring Takayama Matsuri高山祭 (also Sanno Festival) which is held on 14th and 15th April annually.

Hida San'nogu Hie Shrine, Takayama.

Scene from Kimi no Na wa, Miyamizu Shrine in Itomori town.

The red torii gate just before the main hall is said to be the real life model for Miyamizu Shrine in Shinkai Makoto's Kimi no Na wa. The hall is pretty modest in comparison to the anime depiction.

Higashiyama Walking Course

We did the Higashiyama Walking Course, (Higashiyama Yuuhodou東山遊歩道), or a portion of it. Because we first detoured out to the Hida San'nogu Hie Shrine, we didn't go through the route in the order laid out by the map, and missed a few temples along the route.

On the Higashiyama Walking Course. That'd be me, and the gear I carry.

The route is a fairly easy 5.5km walking route through the town's temple area, the Takayama Castle高山城 ruins and rural parts of Takayama. It's mostly flat save for some parts, i.e. the Shiroyama Park area, and the part where we walked past a cemetery. 

The area takes its name from the Higashiyama area in Kyoto, also a temple district. The Higashiyama area in Takayama was created by Kanamori Nagachika金森 長近, the daimyo who ruled Takayama (then known as the Hida-Takayama Domain飛騨高山藩) and built Takayama Castle during the Sengoku era. Nagachika loved Kyoto and built many temples in the hills on the eastern part of Takayama, in an attempt to create something similar to Kyoto's Higashiyama.

Kōyō along the Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō

Views as we go along the Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō (on IG)

Along the way up to Shiroyama Park城山公園, we passed some views of the rural parts of Takayama, framed by the late fall foliage and distant snow-capped mountain ranges.

Shiroyama Park, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō. (More on IG)

We went through the trails in Shiroyama Park without bringing a bear bell which was supposedly recommended. But from previous experience (at Shiretoko), we just kept chatting and made sure to make some noise.

Shiroyama Park trail, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō. (More on IG)

Apparently Shiroyama Park is most beautiful in spring and in autumn. From the look of the fallen leaves and bare branches, it was obvious that autumn had come and gone.

Hakuunsui, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

Shiroyama Park is located on the ruins of Takayama Castle, which daimyo Kamamori Nagachika built in 1588. The castle was later dismantled in 1695, leaving only some remains of its stone foundations, the Otemon, and a spring called Hakuunsui白雲水. The spring's water is actually drinkable.

Dairyuji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō. (More on IG)

The first temple we passed was Dairyuji大隆寺. It was very quiet and there was no one else about except us.

Dairyuji, Higashiyama Yūhodō. (More on IG)

The Three Wise Moneys, Dairyuji, Higashiyama Yūhodō. (More on IG)

At Dairyuji, we came upon the Koshinko, a stone stele depicting the Three Wise Monkeys Mizaru, Kikazaru and Iwazaru, each embodying the principles of "see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil".

Kasuga-bashi, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

From there we made our way along, following the signs and passing the non-descript Kasuga-bashi春日橋 that led us through the residential area of Takayama. We didn't pass a single tourist, but we did pass a few elderly residents who smiled and gave us an encouraging thumbs-up.

Zenkoji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

The next temple we passed was Zenkoji清傳寺.

Random scenes around Takayama

Being off the beaten tourist track, the walking course showed us another side of Takayama, winding not only through temples, but also the homes of Takayama residents and their farm plots.

Somebody's backyard vegetable patch, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

One thing about rural Japan that I can't help noticing is their yards. They grow various everyday-use vegetables (cabbages, daikon, leeks, etc.) alongside ornamental plants and flowers in their yards, which they leave unfenced!

Sōyūji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

Moving along, we come to Shinryuzan Soyuji真龍山 宗猷寺, a Buddhist Rinzai sect temple that was built in 1632.

Hondo of Sōyūji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

In 1632, Kanamori Shigeyori金森 重頼 and his younger brother Shigekatsu重勝 established the Nansou Sect Anzenji as part of the revival of Ankokuji安国寺, a temple in Hida-Kofuku飛騨国府. Originally named Shin-Ankokuji, its name was changed to reflect the Buddhist names of Shigeyori (hence, Shinryuzan) and Shigekatsu (hence, Soyuji). Apparently part of Takayama Castle was used in this temple.

The zenshu-style hondo is built on a stone platform with stone-paved flooring.

Sōyūji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

The bell tower of Soyuji was built by the district governors.

Sōyūji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

Apparently, Soyuji also served as a mass graveyard for people who were discriminated against. (Such people were considered social outcasts and were generally not allowed to be buried in the normal fashion.) However, two graves stand apart: the grave of the parents of Yamaoka Tesshu.

Yamaoka Tesshu山岡 鉄舟 was a samurai during the Bakumatsu period幕末時代. His father Ono Choemon was a retainer of the Tokugawa shogunate, and a 21st generation governor of Hida in 1845. As a youth, Tesshu studied Zen Buddhism at Soyuji. In the 1860s, he served the Tokugawa shogunate, and he is credited for the mediating between Saigo Takamori西郷 隆盛 and Katsu Kaishuu勝 海舟, which ended in the bloodless surrender of the shogunate forces to the Imperial forces during the Meiji Restoration明治維新. Tesshu was later appointed as a chamberlain for the Emperor Meiji明治天皇 and served many government positions. A Buddhist service at Soyuji takes place annually on the 19th July, the day Tesshu died.

Zennoji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

We next passed Zennoji善応寺, a Soto Zen Buddhist temple.

Zennoji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

A jizo at Zennoji, Takayama.

The temple was originally founded as a Tendai Buddhist temple, and was the family temple of Miki Yoritsuna三木自綱, a daimyo who ruled the Hida region from Matsukura Castle during the Sengoku era.

However, the temple burnt down along with Matsukura Castle when he was defeated by Kanamori Nagachika (who built Takayama Castle).

The temple was later rebuilt in 1626 as a Soto Zen Buddhist temple by Kanamori Shigeyori金森 重頼, the 3rd daimyo of Takayama.

The current temple structure was moved from its original location in 1835. The main hall, which was destroyed in 1919, was rebuilt in 1925.

We then next passed Hokkeji法華寺, a Nichiren Buddhist temple.

The Hondo of Hokkeji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

Apparently the main building of Hokkeji is Important Cultural Property of Gifu Prefecture, and was formerly part of Takayama Castle.

Hokkeji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

Bell at Hokkeji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

The temple was founded in 1558, and in 1633 Kanamori Shigeyori built a family temple (bodaiji) for Katou Mitsuhiro加藤 光広, whose grave is also located in the temple.

Hokkeji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

My favourite part of Hokkeji was the small stone bridge over the small pond in the front courtyard, not far from the belfry.

Hokkeji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

The artfully arranged tumble of moss-covered rocks along the banks, the small shrubs and the moss-covered stone bridge were set off really nicely by the pond, which was also filled with the last leaves of autumn. Close by was a small shrine to Benten, which was made by the father of Murayama (Endo) Minjirou who created some Takayama festival floats.

Tenshoji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

Next we passed Tenshoji天照寺, a temple built in 1182 originally as a Tendai Buddhist temple, but rebuilt in 1615 as a Jodo Buddhist temple. It seems the temple also operates a youth hostel.

Higashiyama Shinmei Shrine, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

Along the route, we passed the Higashiyama Shinmei Shrine東山神明神. The shrine proper is on a hilltop. Feeling a little fatigued, and with an eye to the time we had left, I decided not to go all the way to the top. This shrine is one of the top 3 shrines in Higashiyama, along with the Higashiyama Hakusan Shrine (below) and Nishikiyama Shrine.

Sogenji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

Next along the route was Sogenji素玄寺, another Soto Zen Buddhist temple. The temple was built as a family temple of Kanamori Nagachika, by his adopted son Kanamori Yoshishige金森 可重, the 2nd daimyo of Takayama. Nagachika's grave is located at the temple.

Hondo of Sogenji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

The hondo of Sogenji was built in the shoin-zukuri architectural style known as shuden-zukuri, and was originally located in the Sannomaru of Takayama Castle.

Belfry of Sogenji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

Sogenji is also noted for its bell.

Sogenji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

Personally, I was more interested in the ornate wooden carvings decorating the various halls of Sogenji.

The sanmon of Daiōji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

Next was Daiouji大雄寺, a Jodo Buddhist temple. The temple's impressive wooden Sanmon, with its guardian statues of Niou, is the only romon-zukuri structure in the Takayama region, and is designated an Important Cultural Property of Takayama.

Daiouji's bell tower is one of the oldest in the Hida area.

Daiōji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

Daiōji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

Daiouji is pretty large and has a spacious forecourt crisscrossed with flat stones and pavements.

Daioji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

On the premises stands a hexagonal sub-temple, another cultural treasure within Daiouji.

A depiction of hell, at Juuoudou, a sub-temple or hall in Daiouji, Takayama

At the back of Daiouji was Juuoudou十王堂, a small temple of some sort with small stone statues and a depiction of hell. Fascinating...but also a little creepy. I had some small chills while looking at it, and quickly left.

First torii of Higashiyama Hakusan Shrine, Takayama.

Second torii of Higashiyama Hakusan Shrine, Takayama.

We also passed the Higashiyama Hakusan Shrine東山白山神社, a Shinto shrine founded in 720, and is said to be Takayama's oldest shrine. As Hubby took a short rest at the first torii, I made a quick walk up the path towards the shrine proper. The elegant, red-roofed haiden is said to have been created by the third generation Mizuma Sagami. The Mizuma clan was one of the prominent Hida no Takumi飛騨の匠 (Hida master woodworkers), and specialised in shrine and temple architecture.

Higashiyama Hakusan Shrine, Takayama. Hubby was just too footsore and plopped right there, refusing to budge for a while.

Returning down the path, I came on what was probably my favourite scene of the day. I have no idea why. Something about the soft evening sunlight, the long shadows, and my dearest sitting there patiently waiting for his errant wandering partner.

Shoromon of Unryuji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

Following the signpost, next was Unryuji雲龍寺, which is actually around the starting point of the walking course. The temple's Shoromon鐘楼門 is a two-leveled gate with 4 columns (known as jusoshichu-zukuri), with a yosemune-zukuri roof crowned at the peak with a roban (box-shaped structure) and hoju (tear-shaped ornament). The gate is said to have been moved from the Kouun Pavilion of Takayama Castle.

Unryuji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

Unryuji, Takayama Higashiyama Yūhodō.

Unryuji is also a family temple of Kanamori Naganori金森 長則, the eldest son of Kanamori Nagachika, elder brother of Kanamori Yoshishige. Naganori is said to have died in the 1582 Honnoji Incident.

Scenes of Takayama Higashiyama area

Finishing up the Higashiyama Walking Course, I turned back for one last look, and was totally entranced by the golden light shining on Daiouji's Sanmon. Interesting how the temple just sits there, part of the town's landscape, like it's been there almost forever.

Takayama Higashiyama area (on IG)

Found the Higashiyama Walking Course more enjoyable than walking the old town area, mainly because it was just quieter and calmer. Away from the more commercialised town centre, it's not hard to see that Takayama is truly just another quiet rural Japanese town where centuries old historical structures just blend in with the town's present-day structures. It does rather remind one of Kyoto too, so I suppose it fits its nickname of "Little Kyoto".

Autumn berries, Takayama Higashiyama area

Japan with Peko-chan, Chubu-Kansai-Kyushu, Nov & Dec 2017 🚗 Suwa, Nagano • Lake Suwa • Suwa Glass Museum • Seiko Shiojiri 🚗 Hida Mountains • Shirakawa-go • Takayama • Hida Furukawa 🚗 Tokyo • Nakiryu & Kagari • Akihabara • Nippori Textile Town • Wadakura Fountain Park & Kokyo Gaien • Gundam Unicorn, Odaiba • National Art Centre (Kimi no Na wa. exhibition) • Nezu Museum • Kimi no Na wa. ✈️ Nagasaki Part I & Part II • Glover Garden • Old Chinese Quarter • Chinatown • Dejima • Sakamoto International Cemetery • Oura Cathedral • 26 Martyrs Memorial & Museum • Atomic Bomb Museum • Hypocentre Park • Nyokodo • Sanno Shrine ✈️ Osaka • Atelier to naniIRO • Junie Moon Osaka 🚗 Awajishima • Yumesenkei Besso Amahara • Senzan Senkoji • Izanagi Jingu • Onokorojima Shrine • Sumoto Castle • Eshima • Hokudan Earthquake Memorial Park (Nojima Fault) • O-naruto Bridge & Naruto Whirlpools • Akashi Kaikyo Bridge • Awaji beef & Awaji Burger 🚗 Kobe • Kobe Luminarie 2017 • Port of Kobe Earthquake Memorial • Kitano Ijinkan