Noshimon Hana-chouchou Furisode for Wabi-Sabi Dolls
O-hisashiburi desu~! Been a while since I've posted anything here! Partly due to the festive season, which in Singapore, can mean late December to early February (Christmas, New Year's, Chinese New Year). Oddly enough this year's festive season seemed more hectic. Hmm, maybe because I was away for CNY last year (here). Will have to catch up on past posts too.
At last, I've sent off the kimono gift I made for Ellis of WabiSabi Dolls. Initially planned to send this off after Christmas, but then along came CNY. It was a relief to hear that she received it recently. In fact, it arrived there faster than I expected. I was sort of expecting it to get delayed at customs. With this COVID-19 thing going on, it's hard to tell.
Anyway, here's Velouria modelling it.
This furisode was made using kimono hagire that I got at Osaka Kuromon Market during the BFF October trip (posted here). It's an elegant dark red silk with a colourful pattern of noshimon, flowers and butterflies. Hence I've called it Noshimon Hana-chouchou furisode....
I didn't have much of this fabric, and only managed to cut enough for 2 furisode kimono. Will post the 2nd one (which is in a different combination) another time.
Noshimon is an auspicious motif. The word "noshi" originates from "noshi awabi" (thin strips of abalone), and refers to a traditional Japanese custom dating back to the 12th century. Something like a good fortune charm, noshi are paper strips traditionally bundled with dried abalone strips, and attached to gifts for auspicious or celebratory occasions.
For the obi knot, I went with the fukura-suzume musubi (literally "puffed/plump sparrow knot"), an obi knot that looks like a sparrow with outspread wings. I love traditional Japanese motifs, etc., but I admit I fail to see the resemblance. It looks more like a sort of crab to me....
Anyway.... This particular knot is worn by unmarried women only, and (being a formal obi knot) it is only worn with furisode. This obi knot traditionally indicated that the woman in question is available for marriage. Guess that's a reason why it's commonly used for coming-of-age ceremonies?
Making the kimono was fine. Been practising for a while now, and have made some prototypes/test runs over the years. I actually started out with a self-drafted pattern back in 2014 (here), around the time I first started adopting Blythe. Some of my very first attempts were...well...not good. (Here, here, and here. Mostly yukata, which I find easier to make.) That said, I definitely have a looooong way to go. There are many fabulous makers of dolly kimono out there (like my idol Chimachoco-san!).
But, oh boy, making this obi knot was a struggle. Thus far, nothing quite beat the issues I had making this obi knot....
This was my very 1st time attempting the fukura-suzume knot, and with brocade, no less. It only started looking decent on my 3rd attempt. I lost count of how many times I unpicked and re-stitched it to get it to sit right, and for the closure area to be less bulky. Maybe 6 times?
The fabric I used for the obi was kinran brocade, and a little thicker too. That definitely contributed a lot to the problem I had with seam bulk!!! But the fabric was so pretty. I'd bought it from Nomura Tailor in Kyoto, during the same BFF October trip (posted here), and thought the brocade's colours were well-suited for the kimono fabric and the look I had in mind.
The double bird symbolism was totally unintentional; I only realised it after I completed the obi. The brocade had traditional Japanese motifs too, stylised motifs denoting plovers (chidori) flying over whirlpools. (The whirlpool motif here is a distinctive stylised version called kanzemizu-mon). I've mostly seen patterns of plovers flying over waves, instead of whirlpools. But I did come across a Utagawa Kunisada woodblock print of kabuki actor Sawamura Tanosuke III wearing a kimono featuring plovers flying over whirlpools (see here, in the Boston MFA collection).
Plovers are symbols of strength and perseverance, as they brave strong winds and rough waves. They are also auspicious symbols associated with longevity, supposedly because its call is a homonym for "chiyo", which means "1,000 generations" in Japanese. This association is fairly ancient, appearing in the Kokin Wakashuu, as well as Heian and Kamakura period waka poetry.
Looking back on the whole package now, I guess I'd been subconsciously making a kimono packed with auspicious symbols, along with a strong wish for its owner to flourish in strength, prosperity, and longevity.
On this note, a brief word on the recent COVID-19 outbreak. Thus far, my loved ones and I are fine. Even so, it is worrying. My respect and admiration for the healthcare people and others at the front line. I have all my fingers and toes crossed, and am hoping and praying for the people affected, the other countries affected. Especially for China and the people there! Fight on, everyone! 大家加油!みんな、がんばってください！
 |
| Velouria modelling the red noshimon hana-chouchou furisode for Ellis (Other pictures on IG, close-up here.) |
At last, I've sent off the kimono gift I made for Ellis of WabiSabi Dolls. Initially planned to send this off after Christmas, but then along came CNY. It was a relief to hear that she received it recently. In fact, it arrived there faster than I expected. I was sort of expecting it to get delayed at customs. With this COVID-19 thing going on, it's hard to tell.
 |
| Velouria modelling the noshimon hana-chouchou furisode for Ellis. (More on IG, close-up here.) |
This furisode was made using kimono hagire that I got at Osaka Kuromon Market during the BFF October trip (posted here). It's an elegant dark red silk with a colourful pattern of noshimon, flowers and butterflies. Hence I've called it Noshimon Hana-chouchou furisode....
I didn't have much of this fabric, and only managed to cut enough for 2 furisode kimono. Will post the 2nd one (which is in a different combination) another time.
Noshimon is an auspicious motif. The word "noshi" originates from "noshi awabi" (thin strips of abalone), and refers to a traditional Japanese custom dating back to the 12th century. Something like a good fortune charm, noshi are paper strips traditionally bundled with dried abalone strips, and attached to gifts for auspicious or celebratory occasions.
 |
| The matching fukura-suzume musubi. Details of the kimono's back. (More on IG.) |
Anyway.... This particular knot is worn by unmarried women only, and (being a formal obi knot) it is only worn with furisode. This obi knot traditionally indicated that the woman in question is available for marriage. Guess that's a reason why it's commonly used for coming-of-age ceremonies?
Making the kimono was fine. Been practising for a while now, and have made some prototypes/test runs over the years. I actually started out with a self-drafted pattern back in 2014 (here), around the time I first started adopting Blythe. Some of my very first attempts were...well...not good. (Here, here, and here. Mostly yukata, which I find easier to make.) That said, I definitely have a looooong way to go. There are many fabulous makers of dolly kimono out there (like my idol Chimachoco-san!).
But, oh boy, making this obi knot was a struggle. Thus far, nothing quite beat the issues I had making this obi knot....
 |
| First attempt at the fukura-suzume musubi. This part is just the musubi (knot). One its own, it was fairly simple to put together, but I struggled to reduce seam bulk ecause of the fabric I used. (Other WIP pictures on IG.) |
This was my very 1st time attempting the fukura-suzume knot, and with brocade, no less. It only started looking decent on my 3rd attempt. I lost count of how many times I unpicked and re-stitched it to get it to sit right, and for the closure area to be less bulky. Maybe 6 times?
 |
| First attempt vs. third attempt. Again, at the part where I attach it to the waist-sash, I struggled to reduce seam bulk at the closure area. I actually unpicked and re-stitched the first one a few times before I was satisfied. But by then the fabric was a bit...ぼろぼろ. (Also on IG.) |
The fabric I used for the obi was kinran brocade, and a little thicker too. That definitely contributed a lot to the problem I had with seam bulk!!! But the fabric was so pretty. I'd bought it from Nomura Tailor in Kyoto, during the same BFF October trip (posted here), and thought the brocade's colours were well-suited for the kimono fabric and the look I had in mind.
 |
| The matching fukura-suzume musubi. Notice the double bird symbolism? (More on IG.) |
The double bird symbolism was totally unintentional; I only realised it after I completed the obi. The brocade had traditional Japanese motifs too, stylised motifs denoting plovers (chidori) flying over whirlpools. (The whirlpool motif here is a distinctive stylised version called kanzemizu-mon). I've mostly seen patterns of plovers flying over waves, instead of whirlpools. But I did come across a Utagawa Kunisada woodblock print of kabuki actor Sawamura Tanosuke III wearing a kimono featuring plovers flying over whirlpools (see here, in the Boston MFA collection).
Plovers are symbols of strength and perseverance, as they brave strong winds and rough waves. They are also auspicious symbols associated with longevity, supposedly because its call is a homonym for "chiyo", which means "1,000 generations" in Japanese. This association is fairly ancient, appearing in the Kokin Wakashuu, as well as Heian and Kamakura period waka poetry.
Looking back on the whole package now, I guess I'd been subconsciously making a kimono packed with auspicious symbols, along with a strong wish for its owner to flourish in strength, prosperity, and longevity.
On this note, a brief word on the recent COVID-19 outbreak. Thus far, my loved ones and I are fine. Even so, it is worrying. My respect and admiration for the healthcare people and others at the front line. I have all my fingers and toes crossed, and am hoping and praying for the people affected, the other countries affected. Especially for China and the people there! Fight on, everyone! 大家加油!みんな、がんばってください！
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