[Back Post] Kyushu with Momiji, Day 5: Takachiho

Minai Falls, Takachiho Gorge, Miyazaki (on IG)

Now on Day 5 of the Kyushu road trip, we were already wondering if it was going to rain the entire 2 weeks we were in Kyushu. After the wet weather of Day 4 at Aso, we weren't sure if we'd have any luck with Takachiho. The whole of Day 5, it was grey and cloudy, and it started to rain heavily again in the early afternoon. Fortunately, before the rain, we managed to quickly explore some of the highlights of Takachiho (mainly Takachiho Gorge, Takachiho Shrine and Amano Iwato Shrine). Considering the wet weather forecast, I decided to leave Momiji in her carrier...a decision that I still regret.

Early morning breakfast, Hoshino Resorts KAI Aso.

The Japanese really know how to make eggs taste great. This is why I love onsen tamago.

An aspect of ryokan stays I enjoy is the food, sometimes especially the breakfasts because of the onsen tamago温泉卵. The Japanese have such a healthy diet...inspiration for what I should be eating for breakfast back home. After breakfast, we soaked in the onsen again, and relaxed in the room right up to the last second possible. It was a gloomy day, cloud-covered, and it looked and smelled like it'd be another long rainy day. Plus the room was so comfortable, so it was really hard to leave.

After check-out, we left Aso and headed for Takachiho in Miyazaki Prefecture. Takachiho高千穂 is steeped in ancient legend and is closely tied to the Shinto deity of the sun Amaterasu天照. Japanese mythology has it that Takachiho was where Ninigi-no-mikoto瓊瓊杵尊 (Amaterasu's grandson, and purported ancestor of the Japanese imperial family through Emperor Jimmu神武天皇) descended to earth. Takachiho is also the location of the well known Japanese legend, the Ama-no-Iwato myth, which tells of how Amaterasu hid herself in a cave after a quarrel with her brother Susanoo-no-mikoto須佐之男命, thus depriving the world of light (more on the Amano Iwato Shrine below).

Our first stop was Takachiho Gorge高千穂峡, a beautiful 7km long, steep gorge spanning the Gokase River五ヶ瀬川. This beautiful natural landmark is designated as a National Scenic Beauty and Natural Monument of Japan. The gorge's narrow 80-100m tall cliffs are of basalt formed by lava from the Aso Volcano (visited on Day 4). Pyroclastic flows from 2 eruptions around 90,000 and 120,000 years ago flowed to the area before cooling and solidifying into basaltic rock, which then eroded over time by the Gokase River to form the gorge.

Manai Falls from Mihashi Bridge, Takachiho Gorge, Miyazaki

Our plan to rent a boat was dashed as boating was cancelled due to the high volume of water in the gorge thanks to the wet weather. So we jumped straight into taking the walking path over the top of the gorge. Starting from the carpark, we crossed the Mihashi御橋 Bridge from which we had our first view of the famed Manai Falls (Manai-no-taki真名井の 滝). Manai Falls isn't the only waterfall in the gorge, but it's the most well known, and quite possibly the most beautiful. After all, it is designated as one of Japan's 100 most beautiful waterfalls.

Onokorojima and Onokoroike, Takachiho Gorge, Miyazaki

As we went along, we passed Onokorojimaおのころ島 and Onokoroikeおのころ池. Onokoroike was filled with several large sturgeon. They're called chouzame蝶鮫 in Japanese, literally "butterfly shark"; amusing since they do resemble sharks a little.) A little information board nearby explained that according to Takachiho local beliefs, Onokorojima is the place where Izanami and Izanagi married, and birthed the islands of Japan. During the Takachiho Shrine spring festival, the mikoshi神輿 is carried into the Onokoroike and around Onokorojima 3 times. I can't help but remember the claim that Awajishima (visited last year) was the first island created by Izanagi and Izanami. A little hard to reconcile and make sense of, isn't it?

Manai Falls and the so-called "dragon scales" columnar joints, Takachiho Gorge, Miyazaki

A little further down the path, we got to a viewing platform where the classic view of Manai Falls is found. From there was a lovely view of the 17m tall Manai Falls cascading, with clouds of spray, down the grey-black cliffs so sheer they were almost straight-sided. The water surface of the Gokase River was dark that day, and reflected the dark cliffs and lush greenery. Not at all clear azure or teal, as normally described. But well, it was a wet and gloomy day. To the side, we could also see the cliff face displaying a swirl of columnar joints, said to resemble dragon scales, formed where the lava flowed and twisted before cooling into volcanic basalt.

The other famed waterfall of the area is the Tamatare Waterfall玉垂の滝, which we passed by on the way back to the carpark. But all my photos of it turned out blurry.

Kihachi no Chikaraishi, Takachiho Gorge, Miyazaki

We got to Kihachi no Chikaraishi鬼八の力石, literally "Stone of Kihachi's Might", a large rock by the river with a shimenawa標縄 around it. The rock is said to weigh around 200 tons. According to the local Takachiho legend, the older brother of Emperor Jimmu, Mikeiri-no-mikoto三毛入野命 returned to Takachiho where he defeated Kihachi鬼八, a wicked demon that had been terrorising the townsfolk. As the story goes, Mikeiri-no-mikoto saw a reflection of a woman, Princess Unome, on a pond. He learnt that she had been kidnapped by Kihachi. Mikeiri-no-mikoto launched an attack on Kihachi. In the first battle, Kihachi threw this stone, to show off his might. After a fierce battle, Kihachi was defeated, but overnight, his remains came back to life and battle once again commenced. Defeating Kihachi again, Mikeiri-no-mikoto then cut him into 3 parts and buried the parts separately. With Kihachi vanquished, Mikeiri-no-mikoto became the first governor of Takachiho. He married Princess Unome, and their descendants also governed Takachiho.

Sennin-no-Biyoubuiwa, Takachiho Gorge, Miyazaki

Columnar jointing. Sennin-no-Biyoubuiwa, Takachiho Gorge, Miyazaki

And then we came to the part of the gorge called Sennin-no-Biyoubuiwa仙人の屏風岩, literally "sage's wall of rock". The cliff at this part is around 70m high, and the columnar jointing of the gorge's basalt rocks can be seen.

More columnar shapes of the basalt rock face, Takachiho Gorge, Miyazaki (on IG)

Rushing waters, steep rock walls. The power of water in action. Takachiho Gorge, Miyazaki (on IG)

It was pretty obvious that the water level in the gorge was higher than normal. At some parts, the water was flowing through so fast that it was frothing with spray. Further down the path from the Sennin-no-Byoubuiwa are potholes created by the force of the water and swirling stones. The water just looked like white rapids rushing past the smooth, almost glass-like sides of the chasm. This is like physical geography in action! (Yes, so geeky. Haha.)

The Takachiho Three Bridges, Takachiho Gorge, Miyazaki

We then got to the Takachiho Three Bridges (Sandanbashi三段橋). Here was a view of all 3 arched bridges of different construction technologies. Supposedly quite a rare view in Japan. The first is Shinbashi神橋, a stone bridge over a concrete arch built in the Showa period; the second is Takachiho-ohashi高千穂大橋, a steel bridge also built during the Showa period; and the third is Shinto Takachiho-ohashi神都高千穂大橋, only be partially seen from this point, is a concrete bridge built in the Heisei period.

Takachiho Gorge, Miyazaki (on IG)

Further past the Three Bridges spot, we chanced upon another lovely waterfall, away from the crowds as it is quite far down the walking path, and a little hidden away. I personally think it is almost as beautiful as Manai Falls.

Takachiho Shrine, Miyazaki

As the weather was still holding up, we continued on to Takachiho Shrine高千穂神社 which is not far from Takachiho Gorge. Said to date back 1,900 years, the shrine honours the first 3 mythological generations of the Japanese imperial family: Ninigi-no-mikoto瓊瓊杵尊, and his descendants Mikeiri-no-mikoto三毛入野命 (mentioned above), and Emperor Jimmu神武天皇, the legendary first Emperor of Japan. According to the Nihon Shoki and Kojiki, they are descended from sun deity Amaterasu, thus forming the basis for the purported divine status of the Emperor of Japan.

Takachiho Shrine, Miyazaki

Looking at the rather rustic, unpainted shrine dwarfed by the tall cedar trees, it's hard to tell from its surface that the Takachiho Shrine is representative of all 88 shrines in the Takachiho area, and is thus one of the most important in the area.

Meoto Sugi (Married Cedars), Takachiho Shrine, Miyazaki

On the grounds of the shrine are 2 cedar trees with their roots intertwined, called the Meoto Sugi夫婦杉, literally "married/couple/husband and wife cedars". Takachiho local belief is that if you circle them 3 times, hand-in-hand with the person you love, you will be blessed with a happy harmonious relationship, peaceful home and offspring. But apparently if you stumble on the gnarled roots, you will receive no blessings.

Chichibu Sugi (Chichibu Cedar), Takachiho Shrine, Miyazaki

Close to the Meoto Sugi is the Chichibu Sugi秩父杉, a cedar tree that is 55m tall, with a 9m circumference, said to be over 800 years old. The tree is designated as a natural monument of Miyazaki Prefecture and is said to have been planted by famed Genpei War samurai Hatakeyama Shigetada畠山 重忠 when he was sent by Minamoto no Yoritomo源 頼朝 to pray for peace and tranquility at the shrine. It is named after Hatakeyama's hometown, the Chichibu district in Musashi Province. Apparently Hatakeyama planted 2 cedars, but the 2nd one was felled by a typhoon in 1992 and was used to build the shrine's kagura hall.

Takachiho Shrine is best known for the Takachiho Yo-kagura高千穂の夜神楽 (ja), the night Shinto ritual dance dedicated to the kami. Designated as a one of Japan's Intangible Folk Cultural Properties, the full yo-kagura has 33 dances and is only performed between November to February every year. But for tourists like us, an abbreviated version of 4 dances is performed for the rest of the year. Of these 4 dances, the first 3 (dances of Tajikarao, Uzume, Totori) depict the Ama-no-Iwato myth in which Amaterasu hid in a cave due a quarrel with her brother Susanoo, and was later lured out by Ame-no-Uzume. The 4th, the dance of Goshintai, depicts Izanagi and Izanami brewing sake, and is a prayer for abundant harvest, happy marriage and offspring.

Interestingly, the location of the Ama-no-Iwato cave marked by a different shrine in Takachiho, the Amano Iwato Shrine天岩戸神社, which we stopped by right after Takachiho Shrine.

The haiden, Amano Iwato Shrine, Takachiho, Miyazaki

The Amano Iwato Shrine is dedicated to Amaterasu Okami天照大神, and is on top of the mythical Ama-no-Iwato cave, the site of the well known Ama-no-Iwato myth. According to this legend, Amaterasu was angered by her brother Susanoo-no-mikoto須佐之男命, the deity of the sea and storms, and hid herself in this cave. It first began with an insult by Susanoo that led to a major quarrel in which Susanoo destroyed her works and killed her attendant. (There are sexist implications about the alleged inferiority of women involved in their quarrel, which I find annoying in our day and age. But I do find it odd that ultimately, the female deity is the one who rules over all.) So aggrieved and outraged by his acts, Amaterasu hid herself in the cave, Ama-no-Iwato. As a result, the world was plunged into darkness, and chaos and disasters ensued. After many failed attempts to persuade her to leave the cave, the other deities became desperate and gathered together to discuss how to lure her out. The deity of wisdom Omoikane思兼 held a feast outside the cave, and the deity of dawn and revelry, Ame-no-Uzume-no-mikoto天宇受売命, performed a lewd dance. Hearing the amusement, Amaterasu peeped out and became distracted by her reflection in the Yata no Kagami八咫鏡, a mirror that the other deities had hung outside the cave. The deity of strength, Ame-no-tajikarao天手力雄神, then forced open the stone at the cave's entrance, thus bringing Amaterasu back into the world.

Amano Iwato Shrine, Takachiho, Miyazaki (on IG)

Mossy stone lanterns at Amano Iwato Shrine, Takachiho, Miyazaki (on IG)

To be honest, none of the amazing legend seems to be apparent in the humble looking Amano Iwato Shrine. There's a rather ancient atmosphere to the place, further enhanced by the foggy wet weather. Even the stone lanterns have mossy carpets growing on them.

Amano Iwato Shrine, Takachiho, Miyazaki (on IG)

Just as we got to the haiden, the skies opened and the rain really came down. The air was got foggy, and the ground slippery. That put an end to our visit, and so we never did make it to the shrine's main attraction, the Amano Yasukawara天安 河原, the place said to be where the deities gathered to discuss how to get Amaterasu out. I was getting really frustrated and grumpy with the wet weather. Yes, being from tropical Singapore, we're used to rain, but it doesn't mean we like being outdoors when it pours.

Taking shelter from the rain with this cat at Amano Iwato Shrine, Takachiho, Miyazaki (on IG)

So in the end, Day 5 also ended on a short note (again!). Braving the rain, we drove back into town and checked into the Solest Takachiho Hotelソレスト 高千穂 ホテル, our hotel for the night.

Solest Takachiho Hotel

It was probably the first non-ryokan room we've stayed at since our first night at Fukuoka (Day 0 of this road trip). Feeling rather tired and out-of-sorts, we end up skipping the yo-kagura at Takachiho Shrine, and going straight for dinner instead.

Takachiho wagyu steak set, Restaurant Nagomi.

We popped into Takachiho Gyu Restaurant Nagomi千穂牛レストラン 和(なごみ) (Google Maps), where we enjoyed a decent slab of Takachiho wagyu beef steak for a very reasonable price. I got a steak set (sirloin, I think), which came with the works: salad, side dish, rice, miso soup.

Hyūganatsu cake, Restaurant Nagomi.

Meal ended with a small dessert, a little sponge cake with a cream cheese topping, and citrus gel. The waitstaff explained to us that the cake is made with hyūganatsu日向夏 (Citrus tamurana), a citrus fruit that is a local specialty of Miyazaki Prefecture that is best enjoyed in spring. A little sweet zingy sunshine to end our grey gloomy day at Takachiho! Heading back to the hotel after dinner, the rain had finally stopped and there was a crisp chill in the air. Sniffing it, I sent up a desperate plea to the gods that Day 6 would be a clear day.

Kyushu with Momiji, May 2019 ✈️ Day 0 • Singapore - Tokyo - Fukuoka 🚗 Day 1. Saga Prefecture (Route) • Yutoku Inari Shrine (Kashima) • Takezaki Kaisan (Tara) • Shiibasansou (Ureshino) 🚗 Day 2. Yame (Route) • Kitaya Brewery • Shutei Gin no Ka • Iwatoyama Kofun • Yame Traditional Craftwork Centre • Yame tea plantations • Yabe no Mori 🚗 Day 3. Kumamoto Prefecture (Route) • Tsuetate Onsen • Nabegadaki Falls • Ikeyama Suigen • Sozankyo 🚗 Day 4. Aso (Route) • Kusasenri • Daikanbo • Akaushidon Iwasaki • KAI Aso 🚗 Day 5. Takachiho (Route) • Takachiho Gorge • Takachiho Shrine • Ama no Iwato Shrine • Ama no Yasugawara Shrine (skipped) • Kunimigaoka (skipped) • Solest Takachiho • Restaurant Nagomi 🚗 Day 6. Aso & Kirishima (Route) • Kusasenri • Ramen Keika, Kumamoto • Kirishima Shrine • Kirishima Hotel 🚗 Day 7. Sakurajima (Route) • 100-Year Cedar Garden • Maruo Falls • Arimura Lava Observatory • Yunohira Viewpoint • Tsukiyomi Shrine • Sakurajima Michi-no-Eki Rest Stop, Hinoshima Megumikan • Karasujima Viewpoint • Nagisa Lava Trail • Nagisa Park Foot Baths • Kurokami Shrine • Kurokami Viewpoint • Sakurajima Ferry • Kagoshima wagyu at Gyu-do! ✈️ Day 8. Yakushima (Route) • Yakusugi Museum • Ryujin no Taki • Senpiro no Taki • Tsukasaki Tidal Pool • Ohko no Taki • Seibu Rindo • Yakushima Seaside Hotel 🚗 Day 9. Yakushima (Route) • Shiratani Unsuikyo • Hachimanju Cha-en ✈️ Day 10. Yakushima & Kagoshima (Route) • Suginoya • Yakushima Airport • Kurobuta tonkatsu at Mansaku, Aira • Miyama District (Miyama Toyukan & Chin Jukan Touen) • Shiroyama Viewpoint • Richmond Hotel Kagoshima Tenmonkan • Ramen Kuroiwa 🚗 Day 11. Kagoshima to Fukuoka (Route) • Sengan-en • Teru-zushi, Kitakyushu 🚅 Day 12. Fukuoka (Route) • Kushida Shrine • Hakata Traditional Craft and Design Museum • Hakata Riverain • Tenpyodo • Iwataya Annex • Canal City Hakata (Shodai Hidechan at Ramen Stadium, Hamleys) ✈️ Day 13. Tokyo • Hoshinoya Tokyo • Shopping • Sushi Nanba Asagaya ✈️ Day 14. Tokyo - Singapore • Sushi Kimura * * *