Kyushu with Momiji, Day 2: Yame City

Momiji looking over the tea plantations in Yame (on IG)

After a restful night at the end of Day 1 (here), we woke up for an early ryokan breakfast before heading off to our next destination in this Kyushu road trip (travelogue here). We were now in Yame City八女市, a small city in southwest Fukuoka Prefecture, known for a few things, such as Yame-cha and, more recently, for forest therapy—or shinrin yoku森林浴, "forest bathing", as the Japanese call it. In Yame is Green Pia, for forest therapy seekers, or the Kyushu Olle Yame Course, for those who just want to do some walking.

Day 2 kicked off with a brewery tour at Kitaya喜多屋 Shuzo, arranged by our travel planner Kyushu Journeys. We got a little lost and somehow totally missed the front entrance.（◎ー◎；）After some calls back and forth, our brewery guide, Kinoshita Kazuhiro, managed to locate us. Apparently we had been poking around at the back of the brewery's operations area. Totally unexpected!

With the giant sugidama at Kitaya Shuzo.

I guessed correctly that Kazuhiro-san is around our age demographic. We learnt that he studied in the US, and had lived and worked overseas (including Singapore) for several years before returning to Japan. Along the way, we talked about his experiences and thoughts about Singapore. Invariably however, a topic that always comes up is Singaporean cuisine and our multicultural society. Anyway, after introductions and some pleasantries, Kazuhiro-san explained a little about Kitaya's history, before he took us round the brewery.

Kitaya was founded some 200 years ago during the Bunsei era (late Edo period), and produces umeshu, sake, and shochu. The name "Kitaya" expresses the brewery's motto:「酒を通して多くの喜びを伝えたい」, which means "to convey abundant delight through sake". Their sake is made with various sake rice that are locally produced in Yame or in Fukuoka Prefecture, as well as water from Yame. Kitaya is mainly a family-run business. If I remember correctly, Kazuhiro-san is the nephew of the current president (the 7th generation). Ever since he returned to Japan, he participates in the brewery's operations, and because of his US education and English language proficiency, he often goes on overseas business trips to promote Kitaya's sake and shochu.

As we got to the area where the brewing operations take place, we passed a giant-sized sugidama杉玉. There's a normal-sized one hanging at the front entrance, but the one at the back is HUGE. Kazuhiro-san was fairly amused by my WTF reaction, and told us that this giant-sized sugidama was really laborious to make, and so they make one about every 4 years. When he learnt that I knew about the historical purpose of the sugidama (explained in my 2017 Takayama post), he asked me what I thought about it. We had a short discussion about its historical significance and its relevance today. He talked to us about the fanfare they had getting this giant-sized one made, and about the festival where they all tasted freshly made sake with the townsfolk, etc. Hearing him talk about it, I can't help thinking that this is one tradition that is wonderful to continue, regardless of present-day relevance.

As Kazuhiro-san took us around the brewery, he talked us through the sake brewing process as he showed us the rooms and equipment, etc. used in the process. Almost every stage of the brewing process is mostly done manually, using traditional techniques, though sometimes with the assistance of modern equipment or methods, where appropriate.

As the slightest difference in temperature has a great influence on the brewing process, many of the rooms used in the brewing process are carefully temperature-controlled. The warmest was the koji room, where koji is added to the steamed rice. According to Kazuhiro-san, the steamed rice is spread out and cooled down to the correct temperature before the koji is added. According to Kazuhiro-san, this is done in layers — a layer of rice is spread out, followed by koji, then another layer of rice, then koji, and so on. The stand (called toko) is then sealed and the mixture left for the koji to cultivate. The room's temperature and humidity is carefully controlled to ensure the right conditions for koji cultivation. As this stage is a crucial step in the brewing process, Kazuhiro-san explained that during brewing season, the room's conditions are under rigorous 24-hour surveillance, and all staff members take turns keeping track of the room's conditions.

The kojimai in the stacking room at Kitaya Shuzo, Yame (on IG)

Afterwards he took us to the room where they store the koji-covered rice (kojimai) in stacks of wood trays called koji-buta. At this stage, the rice is hard and covered with white koji mould. Kazuhiro-san explained that after the koji cultivation process, the rice is gently broken up into individual grains and layered out in koji-buta, and kept in a cool, dry room. He explained that under these conditions, the koji starts to dry and further cultivate (something to do with the mycelium), secreting enzymes that begin to breakdown the rice starches. We got to taste a pinch of the kojimai, and the rice was starting to take on a little sweetness. Still early stages yet however.

Moromi mash, the rice ferments in temperature-controlled vats. Kitaya Shuzo (on IG)

Eventually the kojimai is placed into a fermentation tank with yeast (shubo), water and steamed rice. At this stage, the mixture (called moromi) ferments rather vigorously. From the top of the tank, we could see the moromi mixture bubbling, as though on a constant simmer. Apparently, at the peak of the fermentation process, the mash actually bubbles furiously, as though on a boil. That this is the stage where the koji continues to break down the rice starches into sugars (a process called saccharification) while the yeast ferments the sugars into alcohol. He explained that this is an extremely crucial stage that is constantly monitored, and that the master brewer (toji in Japanese) constantly checks and samples the mixture. Apparently, their toji sometimes stays overnight during this stage.

Bags of sake lees, what is left over after the filtration process, Kitaya Shuzo (on IG)

After the moromi stage is completed, the moromi mash is piped into rooms to be pressed, the joso stage. At this stage, the sake is extracted, leaving behind sake kasu, that is sake lees. Kazuhiro-san showed us the accordion-like machine where the moromi mash is gradually pressed, and the liquid sake piped out. But, according to him, this pressing method is not used for their higher grade sake, such as their junmai daiginjo "Kansansui", daiginjo "Gokujo", etc. These are extracted using the shizuku shibori process, a drip-filtration process whereby the mash is placed into percolation bags which are then hung up, and the sake left to drip from the bags without any external pressure, just purely by gravity. I was told this process takes 10 men and the bag weighs around 30kg! ！……（〇□〇；）

Outside the pressing room, we saw bags of sake lees, which are said to be nutritious. Sake lees are used to make amazake, and is a like a secret umami ingredient in cooking. In fact, I immediately thought of the amazing bowl of sake lees ramen we had at Ginza Kazami in late 2018 (on IG). I was drooling as I was telling Kazuhiro-san about it. Unfortunately, this trip, we did not have the opportunity to pop by Kazami for another bowl. When our flat is done, I'm going to get me paws on some sake lees and experiment some! It's still some ways away, so I have time to poke around and do some research.

The traditional Japanese kitchen at Kitaya Shuzo.

After the whole tour around the brewery, Kazuhiro-san led us to their kitchen to taste some Kitaya sake. I was surprised when we got there, because it was a traditional Japanese kitchen (daidokoro), with the kamado stove and all! Very cool. This isn't a sight we've seen often. Admittedly though, I would not want to use a kitchen like that; it would drive me insane and I'd spend so much time washing and scrubbing, I won't have time or energy left to cook anything in it.

The natural groundwater that goes into Kitaya sake (more on IG)

At the daidokoro, Kazuhiro-san took out 4 bottles of sake for us to taste. That said, we first started with a sip of the water Kitaya uses for its sake and other products, the natural groundwater in Yame. Clear, pure and soft. This was the start of some very tasty and pure spring waters that we got to drink throughout our Kyushu trip.

The first sake we tried was the junmai ginjo "Gin no Sato"純米 吟醸「吟のさと」 which is made from shuzō-kōtekimai grade Gin no Sato rice grown in Kitaya's contracted farms in Yame, polished to 59% and slowly fermented at low temperature. This was followed by the tokubetsu junmai "Souden"特別 純米「蒼田」, made using Yamada Nishiki rice grown in Fukuoka Prefecture, polished to 60%. Kazuhiro-san explained that "Souden" is also a little special because the rice isn't mashed like other sake and it has an extended fermentation time of about 2 months or more, also at low temperature. The method used is the Yamahai method; I can't remember if he told us, but I had to look up. It was at this point that Kauzhiro-san remarked that their toji was rather strict guy who was something of a genius. I found the flavour profile of the "Souden" interesting: rich, acidic and fruity, rather like a white wine. It's no wonder "Souden" is popular in the US. I can imagine sipping the "Souden" over dinner, while using it to cook too.

Tasting some Kitaya sake (right to left): Junmai ginjo "Gin no Sato", Tokubestu junmai "Souden", Junmai daiginjo "Kansansui", and Daiginjo "Gokujo" (on IG)

The final 2 were the junmai daiginjo "Kansansui"純米 大吟醸「寒山水」 and Kitaya's IWC 2013 champion daiginjo "Gokujo"大吟醸「極醸」. The "Gokujo" uses Itoshima-grown Yamada Nishiki, polished to 35%. The "Kansansui" uses a 60:40% blend of Yamada Nishiki rice and Omachi rice (Yume Ikkon rice for US exports). The rice is polished to 45% and slowly fermented over low temperature. Both the "Kansansui" and "Gokujo" are extracted through the shizuku shibori method. Interestingly, though the Yamada Nishiki is the King of sake rice, the Omachi is Japan's oldest pure rice strain and the ancestor of the Yamada Nishiki.

Of the 2, the "Gokujo" was our clear favourite, though we found the "Kansansui" delightful too. I told Kazuhiro-san that "Kansansui" was very appropriately named, tasting cold and clear, much like its name which literally means "cold mountain water". However, it was the "Gokujo" that we bought a bottle of, to take home.

Adachi Coffee, artisanal coffee in a traditional Japanese kura in Yame.

After our tour at Kitaya, we took Kazuhiro-san's secretive recommendation and stopped by a nearby traditional Japanese kura not far from the brewery. I found, to my delight, it housed a cafe called Adachi Coffeeあだち珈琲 (Google Map) that serves artisanal coffee.

Shutei Gin no Ka, Yame

Afterwards, we decided to have lunch at Shutei Gin no Ka酒邸 吟乃香, one of the places our travel planner had recommended. Incidentally, during the sake tasting, we learned from Kazuhiro-san that his parents run Gin no Ka. (*≧▽≦)ﾉｼ)) In fact, at the end of lunch, his mother came to speak to us because she heard from the wait-staff that we're from Singapore, and wanted to talk to us about Kazuhiro-san having lived there.

Lunch at Shutei Gin no Ka, Yame

The place was quiet, besides us, there was only one other table of 2 customers. Hubby and I rather enjoyed lunch at Gin no Ka. We both had different lunch sets, which turned out to be a course of dishes. As it was still late spring, several of the dishes contained spring ingredients—spring vegetables such as bamboo shoots and sansai which I love but Hubby detests. We both loved the tempura, the batter so light, airy and crispy!

Our next spot was the Iwatoyama Kofun岩戸山古墳, around the northern part of Yame. The Iwatoyama Kofun is rather a road less travelled, though it is part of the Kyushu Olle Yame course, if I recall correctly. Basically, I went to a burial mound. To be more precise, a Kofun period burial mound that is designated as a national historical site.

Stone funerary figures at the Iwatoyama Kofun, Yame (on IG)

Yame has been inhabited since prehistoric times. As such, artefacts from the Jōmon and Yayoi periods, as well as kofun古墳 have been found in the area. Kofun are ancient burial mounds from the 3rd-6th century, built for members of the ruling class at the time. In Yame, there are around 300 kofun, of which the Iwatoyama Kofun is one. It is the largest kofun in the northern Kyushu area, measuring 125m long and 14m high, and is estimated to have been built in the first half of the 6th century. Ancient records indicate that it is the tomb of Chikushi Iwai筑紫 磐井, who is known for the Iwai Rebellion in 527 or 528 AD.

Stone funerary figures at the Iwatoyama Kofun, Yame (on IG)

According to the Nihon Shoki, Iwai governed the Tsukushi Province (somewhere else says Chikugo Province) in the 6th century. It is said that in 527 AD, Iwai refused to support the Mimana in their invasion of the Korea peninsula. At this point, I ought to highlight that this description is problematic because during the time, there was no such entity as a sovereign state or territory called Korea, only a confederacy of territorial polities located in what is today the Korean peninsula. In any case, Iwai so-called rebelled against the Yamato court, at the time ruled by Emperor Keitai継体 天皇. Iwai was defeated by the Yamato army, and committed suicide.

Stone funerary figures at the Iwatoyama Kofun, Yame (on IG)

To be honest, I didn't know I was at the burial mound until I checked Google Maps while literally standing on the mound itself. The only thing that indicated it was a burial tomb was the unnaturally elevated platform, covered in grass, and a line of crudely hewn stone figures lining one end of this elevated mound. The stone figures stand at the head of the Iwatoyama Kofun, and apparently are funerary statues carved from tuff stone taken from Mt Aso (visited in Day 4 and Day 6).

Clay haniwa at the Iwatoyama History and Culture Exchange Centre, Yame (on IG)

We quickly popped by the small museum near the burial mound, the Iwatoyama History and Culture Exchange Centre岩戸山歴史文化交流館 (Google Maps). It's not a large place, and contains a collection of varied artifacts from the Jōmon, Yayoi and Kofun periods. It was rather interesting, if you like really old, archaeological artifacts. I noticed some haniwa埴輪 on display. Haniwa are clay funerary figures that were made for ritualistic burial purposes, as objects buried with the deceased during the Kofun period. Besides being a display of the wealth and status of the deceased, their significance is said to be for the use of the deceased in the afterlife. Much like ancient Chinese and Egyptian funeral practices. Think the Giza pyramids or Qin Shihuang's Terracotta Army, for example. This certainly puts a different gloss to Azuma Kazuma's Mango Waffle Haniwa (Yakitate!! Japan eps 57 and 58).

Yame is also known for some traditional local crafts. We paid a visit to the Yame Dentou Kougeikan八女伝統工芸館 (the Yame Traditional Craftwork Centre).

The puppet theatre at Yame Traditional Craftwork Centre (on IG)

The centre has a few workshops, as well as exhibits showcasing the various traditional crafts Yame is known for. I was surprised to see many—ornate Buddhist altars, painted chochin lanterns, stone lanterns, handmade Japanese paper (washi), Hina dolls, pottery, bamboo craft, Japanese arrows, textiles such as the indigo-dyed Kurume kasuri, among others. Oddly enough, the main highlight of the centre has to be the puppet theatre. It's a proper stage, bedecked with lanterns and a proper stage set.

The mechanism behind these puppets, Yame Traditional Craftwork Centre (on IG)

The puppets are maneuvered by hand, through a mechanism that looks pretty complex to me. At this point, I couldn't help thinking about the puppets we saw in Hida-Furukawa in 2017 (posted here), as well as the anime Karakuri Circus.

We walked around to have a closer look at the exhibits. It's not a large collection per se, and the area also doubled-up as a shop where you could buy some of the items showcased. It was still quite fun and interesting for me, so I think I lost track of time just browsing around.

Locally produced Japanese paper (washi), Yame Traditional Craftwork Centre

One of Yame's traditional crafts is the making of Japanese paper, called washi和紙. As such, the centre has a paper-making workshop that is an active workshop and also a shop. At the shop, I saw an adorable papier-mâché brooch of a 4-leaf-clover and ladybird, and was sooooooo tempted to buy it, but didn't in the end. What would I use it for? Now, remembering that day, maybe I should have? Momiji is nearby, taunting me, "See, Mommy. You should have got it. I would love it on a hat. My sisters would all fight to use it." (Θ︹Θ)ს

Yame has a proud tradition of paper-making that dates back to about 400 years. It was said that the tradition began with a Nichiren Buddhist priest who was on one of his pilgrimages when he noticed that Yame was ideal for producing paper, with the Yabe River's clear waters, wild growing paper mulberry and Oriental paperbush. Many paper-makers in Yame still use locally grown mulberry and the clear waters of the Yabe River to make the washi. I learnt afterwards, from this fantastic Cycling the Paper Road article, that it's actually possible to visit them if asked. Yame paper is known for its long fibres (due to the use of local paper mulberry), pliable nature and durability.

Yame Fukushima Buddhist altar, Yame Traditional Craftwork Centre (on IG)

Another renowned local craft of Yame is the creation of Buddhist altars (butsudan仏壇). Yame's tradition is said to have began when a carpenter named Sansaku Endo, with the help of other craftsmen, recreated a Buddhist temple that had appeared in his dream. Yame Fukushima butsudan are made through an assembly process involving the work of many craftsmen. The process of creating a butsudan comprises of many parts and stages: the wooden base and decorative roof of the kuden to make up the frame, the carving, the metal fittings, the sculpture, the lacquer, the gold leaf, the maki-e, etc. Each component or stage is made by a craftsman, in full or in part, before finally being assembled. Apparently, a feature of these Buddhist altars is they can be easily taken apart and re-assembled, allowing for repeated repairs, and continued use from generation to generation.

On display along the side of one wall were several elaborate, gold Yame Fukushima butsudan. At one end of the room stood what was probably the most elaborate and complete one, accompanied by chochin lanterns, and other items. Religious significance aside, it was a wonderful work of art to behold. It's not difficult to understand why the craft of Yame Fukushima Buddhist altars is a nationally designated traditional craft.

Yame paper lanterns, Yame Traditional Craftwork Centre (on IG)

Since Yame had the natural resources for, and tradition of paper-making (as above), it naturally became a place suited to lantern-making. The Yame lantern was supposedly created around 1816 thanks to a drawing by Aramaki Bunemon (Aramaki Bunzaemon in another source), and was hung in cemeteries. Its use however, later changed to become more versatile. From the Taisho period, Yame lanterns have also been used for Obon and in more modern times, interior decoration and lighting. Seriously, I myself am considering using them in my own home.

Yame paper lanterns, Yame Traditional Craftwork Centre (on IG)

The Yame lantern developed also developed along with the Yame Buddhist altars, as they were also made to match with the altars. Like Yame Buddhist altars, Yame chochin lanterns also comprise of several stages which involves the work/skills of several craftsmen: the bamboo frame, strings, wood work, paper, painting, lacquering, maki-e, metal fittings, etc. A feature of these lanterns is the sokubyo painting technique whereby the artist paints directly onto the lantern, without the use of sketches. Besides chochin lanterns, Yame also has a tradition of making stone lanterns, dating back to the late 16th century (Azuchi-Momoyama period), using tuff stone from Mt. Aso. (The same stone used for the funerary figures at the Iwatoyama Kofun, above.)

Kurume kasuri textiles, Yame Traditional Craftwork Centre (on IG)

Another traditional Yame craft is that of Kurume kasuri久留米 絣, an indigo ikat-dyed woven textile said to have been invented by a woman called Inoue Den during the Edo period. Regrettably I only found out later on that I could get traditional Kurume kasuri textiles or items from Shimogawa Orimono and Aizome Kasuri Kobo, and more modern items from Unagi no Nedoko. Guess it means a return trip to Yame someday!

Along the way, I realised that we'd lost track of time and rushed to Yame Miryokuen Cafe八女美緑園製茶, the cafe recommended for its Yame-cha sweets. Sadly however, we got there just after closing time. I was pretty disappointed because I was craving a green tea dessert, and was very much looking forward to stuffing my face with the cafe's Bunbuku Matcha Parfait and Matcha Chiffon Cake. ‧º·(˚ ˃̣̣̥⌓˂̣̣̥ )‧º·˚

No parfait and no cake, but still with a taste for Yame-cha, Hubby and I dejectedly drove to our next destination for the day: a sort of viewing point that overlooks Yame's tea plantations. After all that about with Yame's traditional crafts and popular Kitaya sake brewery, it would be odd to totally miss what Yame is best known for: Yame-cha八女茶, namely Japanese green tea produced in Yame and its surrounding areas. Indeed, I confess that when it comes to green tea, I tend to think of Uji (visited in 2013 and in 2016, and will again at some point). This trip however has broadened by horizons in terms of Japanese green tea. There was Ureshino on Day 1, and now Yame.

Yame tea plantations (on IG, another view here)

Tea cultivation in Yame originated from Zen priest Eirin Shuzui栄林周瑞 who founded Reiganji霊巌寺 in 1423 after he returned from Ming China. Reiganji is still around in Yame (see Google Maps) and is said to be the birthplace of Yame-cha. Eirin Shuzui taught the method of cultivating and preparing Ming tea to the local chief and his family.

From the viewpoint, we looked over the rows of green shrubs, noticing tall fans that are used to shake up the leaves. Yame's climate and gently-sloping mountainous terrain are said to be ideal for growing tea that produces rich flavour. The tea leaves are harvested every year in late April and early May. In the first harvest, only the top 3 leaves of each stalk is picked. The batch from the first harvest is considered the best batch. Later in the year, another harvest takes place later in the year, and a third of the batch is made into roasted tea.

A stone Buddha calmly overlooking Yame tea plantations (on IG)

In truth, the view doesn't give any clue about the history of Yame's tea-growing tradition or about its reputation as one of Japan's leading high-grade tea producers. Yame's sencha煎茶 and gyokuro玉露 have been recognised and ranked as one of Japan's best. Fukuoka Prefecture is Japan's main gyokuro production area, and about 45% of Japan's gyokuro is produced in the Yame area.

Beyond the quality of the green tea itself, I suppose a reason for its superior flavour is also the quality of the water? After all, the natural groundwater of Yame is good enough to produce award-winning sake, as said in Kitaya above. One of these days I might just bring back bottles of Aso or Yakushima natural spring water, and try using it to brew tea and coffee, and whatever else that requires good water.... The natural spring waters of Kyushu... My brain freezes (in a good way) just thinking about it.... Ever since we came back from this trip, the water I've been drinking just tastes and feels meh, whether it be our regular water supply, Evian, Ice Mountain, Perrier, or whatever other mineral water. But I digress....

We had the viewing spot all to ourselves, so we spent a little time taking in the view and just having a bit of quiet time together. After staying a short while, we left for our final destination for the day: our hotel for the night.

Overnight stay at Okuyame Bettei Yabenomori in Yabe-mura

For the night, we were staying at Okuyame Bettei Yabenomori奥八女別邸やべのもり (Google Maps), a new hotel that was recommended by our travel planner, located in remote mountainous village of Yabe-mura矢部 村. Yabenomori is a new hotel resort that opened in July 2018. The place has a website and Instagram profile, but it probably needs to do something more about its Internet presence because there isn't much information about it online. Perhaps because it is still new? (As of time of this post, it's almost 1 year old.)

Yabenomori, Yabe-mura

Yabenomori is nicely set next to the Yabe River, against the backdrop of mountains. Being late spring, the mountains and surrounding area were covered in lush green. Each guest room is actually a cabin by itself. Yabenomori has a few different types. Ours was a fairly spacious one that was built around an inner courtyard covered with maple trees. I imagine that in autumn, this area would be amazing, ablaze with fall foliage!

Yabenomori, Yabe-mura

The place was done up in modern Japanese and Western fusion style. Hubby likes this kind of ID style, as do I. (But I doubt we'd actually adopt it for our own home. Although we are not in full agreement over the ID of our future home, he agreed with me on this point.)

Yabenomori, Yabe-mura

Our guest room (okay, cabin) had a private bath. Not exactly an onsen bath, but it was a cosy stone-lined Japanese bath filled with hot water. For a remote mountain village, this hotel resort is high tech! The water in the bath was temperature controlled and regulated. One small complaint: I find the bath too small. But apparently, it's fairly common in traditional Japanese bathrooms. Boo. ๐·°(৹˃̵﹏˂̵৹)°·๐

Yabenomori, Yabe-mura

I have no complaints about the place, how it's designed and done up, decorated...even the remoteness of its location! I mean, if one is looking to get away from city life and its constant demands.... this place goes a long way in helping one disconnect from that craziness. I did, however, find it a little jarring to see such a modern and chic building in the area. It's not easy to explain why I felt this way. Probably had something to do with the fact that Yabe is not the kind of place one would expect to find a modern and chic luxury resort. Driving through, it was fairly clear that the average age demographic is probably around 60-70 years old, and Yabe is not a economically vibrant or successful area. It would appear that Yabenomori may be an attempt to rejuvenate the area. With all these in mind, it was not difficult for me and Hubby to start wondering how Yabenomori will fare as time goes on, how it gets supplies, cost of maintaining, cost of operations, occupancy rates, profitability...and the like. I know. We wanted to disconnect and not think of such things, and yet somehow... ...

Having some Yame specialties: Yame-cha and yomogi manju at Yabenomori.

We had complimentary snacks at Yabenomori too. Local specialties of the area...Yame-cha and yomogi manju. The yomogi manju is a local favourite of Yabe. Personally, I prefer mochi over manju any time, because I'm not a fan of the drier and dense texture of manju. Same can be said about yomogi mochi v. yomogi manju. That said, the yomogi manju was a good accompaniment to the Yame-cha.

Shogun soba, dinner at Yabenomori, Yabe-mura

Dinner was kaiseki, but overall a simple one. Making an appearance were some local specialties, such as the salt-grilled yamame (caught locally in the river, we were told), and the Shogun soba noodles. The soba were simply served in a clear chicken broth. We very much enjoyed the tempura of locally-sourced mountain vegetables, accompanied by pink salt. While delicious, Hubby and I both still think the best tempura we had (so far) was lunch at Shutei Gin no Ka in Yame (above).

The main star of dinner was the kurobuta negi shabu, that is, Berkshire black pig and spring onion hotpot, a local Yabe favourite. Ours had a slight twist, with the broth containing soybean milk. No complaints there because soybean milk has a great umami taste when it's been boiled, and also pairs well with pork. So this local dish is eaten by popping in the cut spring onions into the simmering broth, then cooking thinly sliced kurobuta pork in the broth, and when the pork is cooked, we're supposed to wrap a piece of the spring onion around the pork and eat it. I'm not that precise when it comes to Japanese shabu-shabu; too used to our messy everything-in Chinese way of doing hotpot.

Some Kitaya sake and Kurobuta negi shabu with a soybean twist at dinner, Yabenomori, Yabe-mura

For dinner, we decided to have a little sake and ordered a 300ml bottle of Kitaya's junmai ginjo "Kansansui"純米 吟醸「寒山水」. Unlike the junmai daiginjo "Kansansui" we tasted at Kitaya (above), this junmai ginjo is brewed from a 60:40% blend of Yamada Nishiki rice and Gohyakumangoku rice, polished to 55%. The drinks menu had sake from other areas of Japan as well, and so the wait-staff was rather pleased when we chose the Kitaya. He beamed with pride and proudly said it was a local sake producer that has won recognition abroad, and asked if we had known about it before our visit. We happily told him that we'd just spent the day in Yame, and had gone on a tour around the Kitaya brewery, and were honoured to taste some Kitaya sake. He beamed with such pride, and was clearly very happy that we'd done so. Next thing we knew, he showed up again with a full glass of another sake, on the house for us to try. What a lovely elderly gentleman; bless him! He explained that it was from the other sake brewery in Yame. The name eludes me at present, but I will try to remember it.

Overall, Yabemori was a very pleasant stay, and I really enjoyed our room, and the bath (small size aside). I have to admit I was a little disconcerted because everyone there was around their 60s, to 70s or older. It felt like I was being served by my grandparents parents or a community elder. That said, I loved it that all the staff at Yabenomori staff were warm and friendly. Like that gesture of extending a glass of sake to us by that lovely elderly man at dinner, as a show of hospitality and pride for his hometown's products. Over the course of our stay, we did have some miscommunication due to my lousy Japanese and their non-existent/limited English, but they were very patient and relaxed about everything. Honestly, I very much admire and respect them for working at Yabenomori. It can't have been easy for them to put aside their pride, to step forward at that age, to learn a new language at their age, and so on! I hope Yabenomori does well, for their sake.

Happy to say that after a relaxing soak in the bath, we snuggled under the fluffy bed covers, fully intending to talk stuff and watch something together, but we ended up falling asleep almost immediately. Again! That just about wrapped up Day 2 of our cross-Kyushu road trip.

The next day (Day 3), we were off to a different part of Kyushu. In fact, a different prefecture! The weather, which had been fine and sunny, took a turn for the grey, as though reminding us that it is tsuyu season. In fact, is it me or is tsuyu season early?! The time we were there, Day 3 was the start of 3 consecutive days of rain. It put a real damper on a lot of our travel plans in Aso (Day 4) and Takachiho (Day 5), and later on our return through Fukuoka (Day 12).

Kyushu with Momiji, May 2019 ✈️ Day 0 • Singapore - Tokyo - Fukuoka 🚗 Day 1. Saga Prefecture (Route) • Yutoku Inari Shrine (Kashima) • Takezaki Kaisan (Tara) • Shiibasansou (Ureshino) 🚗 Day 2. Yame (Route) • Kitaya Brewery • Shutei Gin no Ka • Iwatoyama Kofun • Yame Traditional Craftwork Centre • Yame tea plantations • Yabe no Mori 🚗 Day 3. Kumamoto Prefecture (Route) • Tsuetate Onsen • Nabegadaki Falls • Ikeyama Suigen • Sozankyo 🚗 Day 4. Aso (Route) • Kusasenri • Daikanbo • Akaushidon Iwasaki • KAI Aso 🚗 Day 5. Takachiho (Route) • Takachiho Gorge • Takachiho Shrine • Ama no Iwato Shrine • Ama no Yasugawara Shrine (skipped) • Kunimigaoka (skipped) • Solest Takachiho • Restaurant Nagomi 🚗 Day 6. Aso & Kirishima (Route) • Kusasenri • Ramen Keika, Kumamoto • Kirishima Shrine • Kirishima Hotel 🚗 Day 7. Sakurajima (Route) • 100-Year Cedar Garden • Maruo Falls • Arimura Lava Observatory • Yunohira Viewpoint • Tsukiyomi Shrine • Sakurajima Michi-no-Eki Rest Stop, Hinoshima Megumikan • Karasujima Viewpoint • Nagisa Lava Trail • Nagisa Park Foot Baths • Kurokami Shrine • Kurokami Viewpoint • Sakurajima Ferry • Kagoshima wagyu at Gyu-do! ✈️ Day 8. Yakushima (Route) • Yakusugi Museum • Ryujin no Taki • Senpiro no Taki • Tsukasaki Tidal Pool • Ohko no Taki • Seibu Rindo • Yakushima Seaside Hotel 🚗 Day 9. Yakushima (Route) • Shiratani Unsuikyo • Hachimanju Cha-en ✈️ Day 10. Yakushima & Kagoshima (Route) • Suginoya • Yakushima Airport • Kurobuta tonkatsu at Mansaku, Aira • Miyama District (Miyama Toyukan & Chin Jukan Touen) • Shiroyama Viewpoint • Richmond Hotel Kagoshima Tenmonkan • Ramen Kuroiwa 🚗 Day 11. Kagoshima to Fukuoka (Route) • Sengan-en • Teru-zushi, Kitakyushu 🚅 Day 12. Fukuoka (Route) • Kushida Shrine • Hakata Traditional Craft and Design Museum • Hakata Riverain • Tenpyodo • Iwataya Annex • Canal City Hakata (Shodai Hidechan at Ramen Stadium, Hamleys) ✈️ Day 13. Tokyo • Hoshinoya Tokyo • Shopping • Sushi Nanba Asagaya ✈️ Day 14. Tokyo - Singapore • Sushi Kimura * * *