[Back Post] Kyushu with Momiji, Day 6: Aso & Kirishima

Momiji at Kusasenri observatory, overlooking the Nakadake crater, Aso-Kuju National Park (on IG).

After days of rain, Day 6 dawned bright and sunny. Blue skies and white feather-like clouds! What a great way to start the day. Since we were still close enough to drive to Aso and saw nothing but grass and cows on Day 4, we decided to modify our itinerary and revisit Aso before heading south to Kirishima. After Aso, we passed through Kumamoto to eat lunch before leisurely driving to Kirishima, where we ended the day at the beautiful Kirishima Shrine. One day we will have to return to Kumamoto city to do it justice.

Leaving Solest Takachiho Hotel, it was such fine weather!

So, in the post on Day 5, I mentioned a legend about a demon called Kihachi who was defeated by Mikeiri-no-mikoto, and was cut up into 3 parts and buried in different places... Over breakfast, I learnt that it's said Kihachi's head was buried near Solest Takachiho Hotel. ((((；ﾟДﾟ))) Thankfully I didn't learn about it the night before, as I probably would not have slept well.

Fantastic weather, so we drove back to Aso-Kuju National Park (on IG).

We had a really pleasant day. The weather was fantastic and the drive was smooth. Plus we got to see more of the scenery with the fine weather.

Panoramic roads through the Aso grasslands.

These mountains... the rolling grass flats... the road stretching into the horizon. We could see all of it this time!

We only had time for 1 stop back at Aso, and opted for the Kusasenri observatory, and skipping Daikanbo. Not going to rehash what was posted previously about Kusasenri-ga-hama. The views on this fine day were stunning. The rain-fed pools on the grassland were filled up compared to Day 4, and looked so blue. This time we could also see the top of Eboshi-dake烏帽子岳.

Kusasenri-ga-hama, Aso-Kuju National Park. ON A FINE DAY (on IG).

Kusasenri-ga-hama, Aso-Kuju National Park (on IG).

And from the observatory, we had an uninterrupted view of the Nakadake crater中岳 火口, which was puffing away noxious gas like a chain smoker. To think the weather on Day 4 could obscure that! Oddly enough, I did not have respiratory problems this time. Maybe the weather played a part? The air certainly felt heavy on Day 4, with the humidity from the rain and fog.

Nakadake crater from Kusasenri observatory, Aso-Kuju National Park (on IG).

So far on this trip, everyday has been a reminder that there are volcanoes and fault lines aplenty in Kyushu. Would that be why parts of Kyushu was called Hi no Kuni火の国 in ancient Japan? Hi no Kuni literally means "Land of Fire", and no, I am not talking about Naruto here. It seems even today, Kumamoto Prefecture is still called Hi no Kuni.

After having our fill of the view, Hubby wanted to pass through Kumamoto city on the way to Kirishima, for the sole purpose of having ramen at Keika Ramen Honten桂花ラーメン本店, a popular ramen chain that's recommended as one of the best in Kumamoto.

Keika Ramen, Kumamoto.

So we had their signature Keika Ramen. The tonkotsu broth of their signature Keika Ramen was creamy, and I enjoyed the aroma of the burnt garlic and tare. Not happy about the egg. WHAT THE H* IS WITH THE SUPER HARD BOILED EGG?! I liked that one could add as much crushed garlic as one likes. At the end of it, Hubby said one soft sigh of my garlic breath was enough to obliterate a vampire. But overall...? It was okay, a bit on the salty side for my personal preference. But maybe not enough to make the special trip through just to have it. As we were leaving the area, we passed Kumamoto Castle, and caught glimpses of its collapsed foundation walls and damaged structures, a tangible reminder of the city's recent devastation.

Leaving Kumamoto, we took a slow drive south to Kirishima, and got there a little later than we expected. Home to Kagoshima Prefecture's 2nd most populated city, Kirishima霧島 is also home to another bunch of active volcanoes, the Kirishima mountains. Besides Kirishima-Kinkowan National Park霧島錦江湾国立公園 and hiking trails, Kirishima has other scenic attractions, so we'll have to return some day to do it justice. We did have decent time for 1 spot and headed for the iconic Kirishima Shrine霧島神宮 (which happens to be within the national park grounds).

The third torii gate shaded by towering maples and cedars, Kirishima Shrine, Kagoshima Prefecture (on IG).

The shrine seems modest compared to other shrines in Japan, though maybe not in relation to the ones we saw at Takachiho (Day 5). Granted, in our travels to Japan we have certainly seen grander ones. But I do think Kirishima Shrine is one of the more beautiful ones we've visited.

The third torii gate, Kirishima Shrine, Kagoshima Prefecture (on IG).

After ascending the stairs to the third torii gate (sannotorii三の鳥居), the surroundings became really quiet and cool. It wouldn't be a stretch to say it felt like the mundane world fell away, and one had entered a place presided by the sacred. But the practical and not religious me thinks the reason is likely due to the grove of cedars surrounding the area, muffling sound and shading the area.

The honden of Kirishima Shrine, Kagoshima Prefecture (on IG).

Kirishima Shrine was rebuilt at its current location in 1715 by Shimazu Yoshitaka島津 吉貴, the 21st Shimazu clan head and 4th daimyo of Satsuma. Many of the shrine's buildings (including honden, heiden, haiden) are Important Cultural Properties of Japan. The original shrine was built during the Muromachi period, and was originally located at the base of Takachiho-no-mine高千穂 峰 (part of the Kirishima mountains). After being destroyed by repeated volcanic eruptions, it was moved to its current location. However, the shrine's grounds still include parts of the Kirishima mountains, the alleged location of the Japanese creation myth, the tenson kōrin天孫降臨.

As the legend goes, on the orders of Amaterasu to descend to Earth to bring chaos to order, her grandson Ninigi-no-mikoto瓊瓊杵尊, bearing the three treasures that later became the Imperial Regalia of Japan, and along with other kami, descended to Earth. Ninigi-no-mikoto led the way through the heavens and arrived at Takachiho-gawara, whereby he thrust his spear (apparently the same spear used to create Japan) onto the summit of Takamine-no-mine to mark the spot. There is a Takachiho-no-mine hiking trail and apparently the spear can still be seen. (The other place claimed is Takachiho-no-Kushifurutake高千穂の久士布流多気.) Settling on Earth, he married local princess Konohanasakuya木花咲耶姫, who bore him 3 sons. Of the 3, Hoori-no-mikoto火折尊 was the grandfather of Emperor Jimmu神武天皇. (Hence, as previously posted, the basis of the Japanese imperial family's claimed divinity.)

Given this backstory, I wasn't surprised to learn that the shrine enshrines Ninigi-no-mikoto and is also dedicated to his wife Konohanasakuya-hime, his son Hoori-no-mikoto, Hoori's wife Toyotama-hime, Ugayafukiaezu (Hoori's son, and the father of Emperor Jimmu) and his wife Tamayori-hime.

The colourful, ornate carvings on the honden's karahafu gable, Kirishima Shrine.

The patina of the kusari-doi against the green lattice and vermilion frames of the tamagaki caught my attention, Kirishima Shrine, Kagoshima Prefecture (on IG).

I think Kirishima Shrine is beautiful, with its gleaming red buildings and colourful ornate details contrasted against the lush green trees. No wonder it's also called the Nikko of the West. I bet the shrine grounds would be even more beautiful at peak cherry blossom season and autumn season.

Loads of ema at Kirishima Shrine, Kagoshima Prefecture.

Apparently, the shrine is a well known power spot for family safety and career prosperity. Hey, maybe the omamori Hubby bought as a souvenir may have some effect. We could all use a little help in an economic recession. (We'll soon have to get him a bigger box to keep all his omamori.)

Accidentally picked up a kodomo omikuji. Kirishima Shrine, Kagoshima Prefecture (on IG).

I decided to just go with the flow and pick an omikuji. Was actually just planning to pick a normal omikuji but had accidentally picked up a kodomo omikuji, that is, a child fortune-telling charm *facepalm*

View from Kirishima Shrine. Which smoking volcano is this, Sakurajima?

From the shrine grounds, we were also treated to a view of a smoking volcano. I'm really bad with directions, but I am guessing it was Sakurajima, which we explored on Day 7.

Lovely sunset view from our room window at Kirishima Hotel.

Entertaining ourselves with puzzles before dinner.

After Kirishima Shrine, we checked into our hotel for the night, Kirishima Hotel霧島ホテル, famous for its large public onsen and 4 types of hot springs. Kirishima Hotel is located in Kirishima Onsen, which is known for its healing waters, as well as the place Sakamoto Ryoma and his wife were said to have visited in 1866 on their honeymoon.

Being in Kagoshima Prefecture, dinner naturally included produce from the prefecture, as well as the prefecture's various specialties.

Sake sushi, a Kagoshima specialty, Kirishima Hotel

Over our dinner, one of the Kagoshima specialties served was sake sushi, local seafood fished up from Kagoshima and served on rice marinated with sake (instead of the traditional vinegar), and topped with some shredded sweet tamagoyaki. More chirashi-zushi than sushi. Apparently, it is a local style of sushi that dates from the Edo period. The story is that during that time, the daimyo threw an extravagant hanami party with loads of drinking. When the drunken guests came to after a few days, they found the remains of chirashi-zushi soaked in spilled sake and slightly fermented in the warm Kyushu weather.

One the sake sushi was kibinagoキビナゴ (silver-stripe round herring), also a local specialty that is caught at night in Kinko Bay, and is in season in May, June, December and January.

Kibinago in clear soup, Kirishima Hotel.

Our soup also had kibinago in it. It's a shiny translucent treat that is enjoyed in several ways, but most traditionally as kikka-zukuri菊花ずくり, that is, sashimi style arranged like a chrysanthemum flower (hence "kikka"菊花), eaten with vinegared miso (sumiso酢味噌).

Kagoshima kurobuta and chicken shabu-shabu, an original creation of Kirishima Hotel.

Then, the big guns of Kagoshima cuisine. The Kagoshima kurobuta黒豚 and chicken hotpot, apparently and original creation of Kirishima Hotel. Kurobuta, i.e. the Berkshire pig, is the pride of Kagoshima (okay, besides its satsuma-imo and shochu). These delicious looking black pigs are fed local satsuma-imo. There are claims that the black pig was introduced to Kagoshima around 400 years through the Ryukyu Islands (now Okinawa), and pig breeding went through various improvement efforts during the Meiji era. But it's also said that the Berkshire black pig was introduced in the 1920s (Showa era). Which version is correct, I don't care. I am just grateful for such delicious food, and am going to quote Toriko: "Kono you wa subete no shokuzai kansha wo komete...itadakimasu!"この世のすべての食材に感謝を込めて... いただきます!

On this trip, we got to enjoy kurobuta in more than 1 way. Besides having it shabu-shabu style over dinner at Kirishima Hotel, we also got to enjoy it again as tonkotsu stew for lunch on Sakurajima (see Day 7), and then as tonkatsu at Mansaku in Aira (Day 10). The best recommended way to enjoy kurobuta (we read and were told) is in shabu-shabu, and I can see why. Shabu-shabu style does bring out the natural mellow, milkiness of the pork and its melting fat. But we loved it stewed and fried as tonkatsu too! It's just too hard to pick a favourite way to eat such a delicious ingredient.

Kagoshima wagyu, yakiniku-style, Kirishima Hotel.

Following the heels of the delectable Kagoshima kurobuta was Kagoshima wagyu beef, also the pride of Kagoshima. Producing around 20% of Japan's Japanese Black cattle, Kagoshima is Japan's largest producer of beef. We were enjoying it yakiniku style.

Ending this post on this high note... and in search of supper! All that talk of kurobuta and wagyu has got me hungry. Next will be Day 7, a day trip to the volcano, Sakurajima. Not just another volcano, but Japan's most active volcano that is the symbol of Kagoshima, so much so that the daimyo had his Kagoshima residence built with a full view of it (Day 11 at Sengan-en).

Kyushu with Momiji, May 2019 ✈️ Day 0 • Singapore - Tokyo - Fukuoka 🚗 Day 1. Saga Prefecture (Route) • Yutoku Inari Shrine (Kashima) • Takezaki Kaisan (Tara) • Shiibasansou (Ureshino) 🚗 Day 2. Yame (Route) • Kitaya Brewery • Shutei Gin no Ka • Iwatoyama Kofun • Yame Traditional Craftwork Centre • Yame tea plantations • Yabe no Mori 🚗 Day 3. Kumamoto Prefecture (Route) • Tsuetate Onsen • Nabegadaki Falls • Ikeyama Suigen • Sozankyo 🚗 Day 4. Aso (Route) • Kusasenri • Daikanbo • Akaushidon Iwasaki • KAI Aso 🚗 Day 5. Takachiho (Route) • Takachiho Gorge • Takachiho Shrine • Ama no Iwato Shrine • Ama no Yasugawara Shrine (skipped) • Kunimigaoka (skipped) • Solest Takachiho • Restaurant Nagomi 🚗 Day 6. Aso & Kirishima (Route) • Kusasenri • Ramen Keika, Kumamoto • Kirishima Shrine • Kirishima Hotel 🚗 Day 7. Sakurajima (Route) • 100-Year Cedar Garden • Maruo Falls • Arimura Lava Observatory • Yunohira Viewpoint • Tsukiyomi Shrine • Sakurajima Michi-no-Eki Rest Stop, Hinoshima Megumikan • Karasujima Viewpoint • Nagisa Lava Trail • Nagisa Park Foot Baths • Kurokami Shrine • Kurokami Viewpoint • Sakurajima Ferry • Kagoshima wagyu at Gyu-do! ✈️ Day 8. Yakushima (Route) • Yakusugi Museum • Ryujin no Taki • Senpiro no Taki • Tsukasaki Tidal Pool • Ohko no Taki • Seibu Rindo • Yakushima Seaside Hotel 🚗 Day 9. Yakushima (Route) • Shiratani Unsuikyo • Hachimanju Cha-en ✈️ Day 10. Yakushima & Kagoshima (Route) • Suginoya • Yakushima Airport • Kurobuta tonkatsu at Mansaku, Aira • Miyama District (Miyama Toyukan & Chin Jukan Touen) • Shiroyama Viewpoint • Richmond Hotel Kagoshima Tenmonkan • Ramen Kuroiwa 🚗 Day 11. Kagoshima to Fukuoka (Route) • Sengan-en • Teru-zushi, Kitakyushu 🚅 Day 12. Fukuoka (Route) • Kushida Shrine • Hakata Traditional Craft and Design Museum • Hakata Riverain • Tenpyodo • Iwataya Annex • Canal City Hakata (Shodai Hidechan at Ramen Stadium, Hamleys) ✈️ Day 13. Tokyo • Hoshinoya Tokyo • Shopping • Sushi Nanba Asagaya ✈️ Day 14. Tokyo - Singapore • Sushi Kimura * * *